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JOURNAL OF A TOUR 



TO 



MALTA, GREECE, ASIA MINOR, CARTHAGE, 
ALGIERS, PORT MAHON, AND SPAIN, 

IX 1828. 



-^ 



BY SAMUEIi WOODRUFF, ESQ. 

AGENT OF THE GREEK COMMITTEE OF THE CITY OF NEW YORK, 
FOR THE DISTRIBUTION OF PROVISIONS TO THE SUF- 
FERING INHABITANTS OF GREECE. 



TO WHICH IS APPENDED 



AN ACCOUNT OF THE DISTRIBUTION OF THE CARGO OF 
PROVISIONS AND CLOTHING TO THE SUFFERING 
GREEKS, BY THE AGENTS OF THE GREEK COMMITTEE 
OF THE CITY OF NEW YORK, SENT IN THE BRIG 
HERALD, MAY, 1828. 



ll^artfDrtK ; 

PUBLISHED BY COOKE AND Ca 
1831. 



DISTRICT or CONNECTICUT, ss. 

Be it Remembered, That on the thirty-first day pfDecember^ 
Li» S» in the fifty-fifth year of the independence of the United States of 
America, Samuel Woodruff, of the said District, hath deposited 
in this office the title of a book, the right whereof he claims as Author, in 
the words following, to wit ; " Journal of a Tour to Malta, Greece, Asia 
Minor, Carthage, Algiers, Port Mahon, and Spain, in 1828. By Samuel 
Woodruff, Esq. Agent of the Greek committee of the city of New York, 
for the distribution of provisions to the suffering inhabitants of Greece. 
To which is appended, an account of the distribution of the cargo of pro- 
visions and clothing to the suffering Greeks, by the Agents of the Greek 
Committee of the city of New York, sent in the brig Herald, May, 1828." 
In conformity to the act of Congress of the United States, entitled " An 
act for the encouragement of learning, by securing the copies of Maps, Charts 
and Books, to the authors and proprietors of such copies, during the times 
therein mentioned." And also to the act entitled, "An act supplementary 
to an act entitled, * An act for the encouragement of learning, by securing 
the copies of maps, charts, and books, to the authors and proprietors of 
such copies during the times therein mentioned,' and extending the bene- 
fits thereof to the arts of designing, engraving, and etching historical and 
other prints." 

CHAS. A INGERSOLL, 
Clerk of the District of Connecticut. 
A true copy of record, examined and sealed by me, 

CHAS. A. INGERSOLL, 
Clerk of the District of Connecticut* 



NH 



To WILLIAM L. STONE, Esq. 

ONE OF THE COMMITTEE OF THE CITY OF NEW YORK FOR 
FURNISHING PROVISIONS &C. TO THE SUFFERING 
INHABITANTS OF GREECE. 

Dear Sir, — 

I avail myself of the privilege afforded by your kind 
request of communicating to you, from time to time, as 
opportunity may offer, whatever of interest may occur, 
during the voyage I have undertaken; and in the dis- 
charge of the duties with which the Greek Committee of the 
city of New York have entrusted me. I do so with the 
more freedom and pleasure on account of the activity and 
efficiency of your exertions as a member of that highly re- 
spectable committee. I can give you no assurances, that 
in my letters you will find any thing entertaining or instruc- 
tive, either in style or manner, beyond what may arise from 
a plain and simple narration of incidents, which may occur^ 
together with my own observations upon them, as I pass 
along. Should I succeed in this, my object will be gained. 

I am not insensible that many of my notices will justly be 
considered of little or no importance to others, but may 
serve at least for amusement to myself, and be some al- 
leviation of that ennui which is experienced by most per- 
sons who cross the Atlantic. 

Should these communications fall into the hands of any 
excepting yourself and other particular friends, suitable 
indulgence will be allowed for my want of acquaintance 
with technical terms and nautical phrases. From the can- 
did reader I shall have nothing to fear — for, as an au- 
thor, I have no reputation to lose ; neither do I flatter my- 
self, that the merit of my diary will be considered suffi- 
cient to invite criticism. 

Youry respectfiilly, 

SAMUEL WOODRUFF. 



THE GREEK COMMITTEE OP THE CITY OF 
NEW YORK, 

AS ORGANIZED IN 1828 ; 

FOR FURNISHING I^ROVISIONS TO THE SUFFERING INHABITANTS OF 
GREECE. 



George 

Charles Wilkes, 
John B. Lawrence, 
Arthur Tappan, 
John Duer, 
Joseph Grinnell, 
Jonathan Goodhue, 
John Hone, Jr. 
John Haggerty, 
David Andrews, 
WilHam Maxwell, 
Theodore Dwight, 
Robert Ssdgwick, 
William L. Stone, 
John Srnalley, 
Cornelius Heyer, 
George Sullivan, 
H. W. Field, 

Samuel 



Griswold, Chairman^ 

Stephen Whitney, 
Jacob Drake, 
William Emmerson, 
George Griffin, 
John L. Lawrence, 
John W. Leavitt, 
Thomas Suffern, 
John Stearns, 
James McBride, 
Abijah Fisher, 
George Gallagher, 
Wm. C. MuJlegan, 
John Flack, 
Najah Taylor, 
Jonathan D. Steele, 
James Lovett, 
Thomas Fessenden, 
Akerly, Secretary. 



LETTER I. 



Malta, July l8tL 1828. 
Dear Sir, 
On the 13th of May, 1828, I received from 
the Greek Committee, of the city of New York, 
the following letter : — 

" New York, 3d May, 1828. 
Mr. Samuel Woodruff, — 
Dear Sir — The Greek Committee of this city, 
being in want of a person of intelligence, firmness, 
and decision of character, and one whose know- 
ledge of the world would prevent his being im- 
posed upon, to go out with the first vessel, with 
clothing and provisions for the Greeks, the sub- 
scribers have been charged with the duty of en- 
gaging such a person ; and you have been recom- 
mended as highly qualified for that purpose. From 
the information given us, we have decided in your 
favor ; and if you are willing to go upon the same 
terms as others who offer, you must be ready in 
the course of a fortnight or three weeks, and give 
us an immediate answer on the receipt of this, 
when you will be further advised. 
1 



10 JOURNAL OF A TOUR, &C. 

An assistant agent will be sent out with you ; 
your passage paid, and you will be found, while 
attending to the duties required. Your passage 
back will also be paid, if you return direct ; but 
if you wish to visit any other country, one hundred, 
or one hundred and twenty dollars will be allowed 
you, and you can take your own route in return- 
ing, after the distribution of the provisions and 
clothing of which you are to have the charge. 

We are respectfully, your most obedient, 

G. Griswold, Chairman^ ) Greek 
Sam'l. Ackerly, Sec^ry, ) Committee.^ 

On the 14th, set out for New York, and arrived 
there on the 15th ; called on the Chairman of the 
(x)mmittee, and made known to him my accept- 
ance of the trust to which I had been appointed; 
received the Committee's instructions for the ne- 
cessary preparations for the voyage, in the brig 
Herald, Capt. Jere. L. Page, bound to Poros, to 
sail on the 25th, or as soon after as might be. I 
was much gratified in learning that the Rev. Mr. J. 
King was connected in the agency, and to sail 
With the same cargo. This had a material effect 
on my mind, in deciding the question of accepting 
the trust, with the offer of which the Committee 
had honored me. Returned from New York on 
the i6th ; and having made the necessary arrange- 
ments in relation to my domestic concerns, left 
my family on the 20th, and arrived again in New 



NEW YORK. 11 

York, early the next morning. On the 27th, re- 
ceived from the Greek Committee the following 
letter of instructions. 

" New York, May 27th, 1828. 
Gentlemen, — 

The Executive Committee of the city of New 
York, for the relief of the Greeks, having appoint- 
ed you their agents for the distribution of the pro- 
visions and clothing composing the cargo of the 
brig Herald, Page, master, now lying in the port of 
New York, herewith inclose a copy of the invoice 
and the bill of lading of said cargo. 

You are aware that this cargo is the result of the 
contributions from various parts of our country, 
designed to relieve, as far as possible, the suffer* 
ings of Greece. It is the anxious desire of the 
Committee, that it should be distributed in the 
most judicious and efficient manner, for the relief 
of those who are in a suffering and necessitous 
condition. This will be the primary object of all 
your efforts. It is impossible for the Committee 
to give any very specific directions as to the best 
mode of its accomplishment. 

The result will depend mainly upon your judg- 
ment and fidelity, on which the Committee repose 
themselves with entire confidence. You will, of 
course, avail yourselves of the advice and assist- 
ance, so far as may be in your power, of any re- 
spectable individuals who are the devoted and 



12 JOURNAL OF A TOUR, &LC, 

known friends of Greece. The Committee are 
very desirous the distribution should, as far as 
practicable, be made under your personal obser- 
vation and control ; and they wish to apprise you, 
that this will probably require a considerable peri- 
od of time. The Committee would suggest the 
great importance of your keeping a very particu- 
lar account of all your proceedings, and of preser- 
ving every practical testimonial in regard to them, 
w^hich may tend to inspire the Greek donors with 
confidence in the proper application and efficiency 
of their character. The Committee expect to 
have it in their power to lay before the public a 
minute and satisfactory account of all your pro- 
ceedings : and you will please to furnish us state- 
ments in duplicate of the appUcation of the articles 
composing the cargo, — designating the packages 
by their numbers, so far as may be practicable ; 
this being very desirable for the satisfaction of the 
donors. 

The brig Herald will touch at Malta, and pro- 
ceed thence to Poros and Syra, with such other 
ports, as your judgment, under all circumstances, 
shall dictate. 

The Committee expect to forward one or more 
additional cargoes to Greece ; and if either of them 
should arrive while you, or either of you remain 
there, you are desired to assist, as far as may be 
practicable, in their distribution. 



NEW YORK. 13 

The Committee having paid freight of cargo in 
advance, have effected insurance on freight and 
cargo. Should any accident prevent dehvery of 
the cargo agreeably to its destination, you will 
please forward us (in duplicate,) protest and other 
needful documents to establish claim on under- 
writers. With this you will receive a box, con- 
taining one thousand Spanish dollars, to pay your 
expenses, &c. of which please render us an ac- 
count on your return. 

By order of the Greek Committee of New York, 
wishing you entire success in the discharge of the 
sacred trust committed to you, we are, Gentlemen, 
with great respect, your obedient servants, 

Geo. Griswold, Chairman, 
Samuel Ackerly, Sec^ry. 

To SaiMuel Woodruff, Esq. 

Rev. Jonas King, 

Jno. R. Stuyvesant, Esq." 

Every thing being now in readiness to conr 
mence our voyage, on the morning of Wednesday, 
May 28th, 1828, went on board the brig, and at 
half past 10, A. M. weighed anchor. The Chair- 
man, and several other gentlemen of the Commit 
tee, came on board, affectionately took leave, and 
wished us a pleasant and prosperous voyage. At 
half past 3, P. M. dismissed our pilot at Sandy 
Hook, and filled away — fair wind and fine wea- 
ther. 

I* 



14 JOURNAL OF A TOUR, &C. ^ 

'2fdth. Wind and weather favourable — a good 
breeze — moderately sea-sick. At 5, P. M. spoke 
an English brig bound to N. York ; toward even- 
ing, weather thick and hazy. 

30//i. Foggy ; Scotch mist ; Mother Carey's 
chickens. This little aquatic bird is seen, as I am 
informed, in all the navigable seas, though never 
near land, nor the middle of the oceans. How it 
obtained, its name, I know not : but were it desti- 
tute of that article, it might with great propriety, 
be denominated the Sea-swallow. In form, it re- 
sembles our Barn-swallow ; in size, a degree lar- 
ger ; its plumage, a dark, muddy color, like the 
Chimney-swallow, with the exception of a white 
spot on the rump ; shape and motion of wing, 
similar to the swallow ; powerful, indefatigable, 
quick and tortuous in its flight ; web-footed, but 
rarely rests upon the water. How, when and 
where it breeds, navigators are divided in their 
opinions ; but perhaps nobody knows. This sin- 
gular bird is most active^ and appears to enjoy it- 
self best, in boisterous weather, and gales of wind.- 
Saw a whale, for the first time. Passed a sick and 
sleepless night, during which, copious showers. 

31 5^. Moderate but fair breeze ; sea-sickness 
continues ; Mr. King in the same condition. At 
half past 10, A. M. discovered over our larboard 
bow the wreck of a brig ; on approaching it, found 
it floating, keel upwards, with a small part of the 



AT SEA, 15 

hulk above water ; so much of her stern was under 
water, that we were unable to read her name. 
Observing she had been scuttled, we considered it 
of no use to board her, and passed on. 

June 4th. This evening, Mr. King, by request, 
read a chapter, made appropriate comments upon 
it, and closed with prayer ; — 10 o'clock at night ; 
on the ocean, still and solemn, 1000 miles from land, 
the exercises were devotional, sweet and animating. 
Stupid indeed, and wretched must be the condition 
of the man who could not enjoy such a season. 

5th. Cloudy and calm ; made but little progress 
this day ; saw great numbers of the Nautilus, vul- 
gularly called Portuguese men-of-war. Still, clear, 
pleasant evening ; reading and prayer by Mr. King. 

6th. Pleasant, clear, and warm. Lat. 39'' 42'. 
Lon. 53^ 19' W. Now about 1000 miles to the 
Azores or Western Islands. 

I2th. Cloudy and squally through the day ; 
rough sea, wet decks ; at 7, P. M- strong breeze ; 
took in sail ; 8 knots; slept little. Lat. 41^ 29', 
Lon. 33^ 28'. 

I4th. At half past 7, P. M. to our great joy, made 
Corvo, the North-westernmost island of the Azores- 
released from a painful anxiety concerning our 
reckoning ; dark, showery, squally night ; now 
about 1100 miles from Gibraltar. These islands 
are situated between 25 and 32 degrees of west 
longitude, and between 37 and 40 north latitude, 



16 JOURNAL OF A TOUR, &C. 

900 miles west of Portugal, and as many east of 
Newfoundland ; lying almost in the mid-way be- 
tween Europe and America. They are nine in 
number, and are named Santa Maria. St. Miguel, 
or St. Michael, Tercera, St. George, Graciosa, 
Fayal, Pico, Flores, and Corvo. They were dis- 
covered in the middle of the fifteenth century, by 
Joshua Vander Berg, a merchant of Bruges, in 
Flanders, who, in a voyage to Lisbon, was, by 
stress of weather, driven to these islands, which he 
found destitute of inhabitants, and called them the 
Flemish Islands. On his arrival at Lisbon, he 
boasted of this discovery ; on which ,the Portu- 
guese set sail immediately, and took possession of 
them ; and to whom they still belong ; and were 
called in general the Azores, from the great num- 
ber of hawks and falcons found among them. All 
these islands enjoy a very clear and serene sky, 
with a salubrious air, but are exposed to violent 
earthquakes, from which they have frequently suf- 
fered : and also by the inundations of surrounding 
waves. They are however, extremely fertile in 
corn, wine, and a variety of fruits ; also cattle, fowl, 
and fish. It is said that no poisonous or noxious 
animal breeds on the Azores, and that if carried 
thither, will expire in a few hours. St. Michael, 
which is the largest, being near a hundred miles 
in circumference, and containing about 60,000 in- 
habitants, was twice invaded and plundered by the 



AT SEA. 17 

English, in the reign of queen Ehzabeth. Tercera 
is the most important of these islands, on account 
of its harbor, which is spacious and has good 
anchorage, but is exposed to the south-east winds. 
Its capital town, Angra, contains a cathedral and 
five churches, and is the residence of the governor 
of these islands, as well as of the bishop. 

I5th to Idth. Fine weather, and generally fair 
wind ; average 7 knots. 

22c?. Sunday. Stiff breeze from N. E. ; 7 knots. 
Saw a ship to windward, same course. Somewhat 
indisposed ; head-ache. P. M. wind freshens ; 
large swells ; 8 knots. At 3 P. M. met, hailed, 
and passed an hermaphrodite English brig, from 
the Mediterranean. Lat. 37^ 15', Lon. 9° 40\ 
at 6, P. M. made Cape St. Vincent, bearing E. N. 
E. 16 to 20 leagues distant. It is not easy to de- 
scribe my emotions on the first sight of land in 
Europe, which I had so long and ardently desired 
to see. Kept on our course for the Straits of 
Gibraltar ; passed the cape in the night. 

23J. Beautiful morning ; light but fair breeze. 
No land in sight this forenoon ; current into the 
straits about 3 knots. Saw two whales sporting 
and spouting water. 8 P. M. ofl^ Cadiz. Clear 
and charming evening ; moon s. about 10. Sound- 
ed, 40 fathoms. 

24th. This morning we passed through a squad- 
ron of Spanish fishermen, most of whom arc an- 



18 JOURNAL OF A TOUR, &C. 

chored 4 or 5 leagues off Cadiz, in small craft, 
called feluccas, about 50 in number, rigged in a 
singular manner. Being now under easy sail, and 
the weather remarkably clear and pleasaijt, had a 
fine opportunity for noticing the costume, activity, 
and garrulity of these fishermen. A close red cap 
covered their heads ; a short tunic, or fisherman's 
frock girded about their loins, with galligaskins, 
and naked legs and feet ; in their persons short, 
thick-set and muscular ; their mustachios plentiful, 
bushy and squalid. 

The view of these men and their craft, in the 
absence of all other evidence, indicated our ap- 
proach to some foreign country. They appeared 
to be successful in their employment, frequently 
bringing up with their hooks, that beautiful and 
delicious fish, the Salmano, weighing from five to 
twelve pounds each ; the fins and tail a brilliant 
yellow, and the whole body and head of a golden 
hue. 

At 12 o'clock the wind shifted, and came on to 
blow fresh from the east, directly out of the straits. 
Passing Cadiz, had a distant view of the tower, 
several churches, and other public buildings. 
Wind, in the evening freshens to a gale. Passed 
Trafalgar in the night. The place where we now 
are, is memorable for the naval action fought here 
21st Oct. 1805, between the English fleet, com- 
manded by Admiral Lord Nelson, on one side, and 



AT SEA. 19 

the French and Spanish combined fleets on the 
other, and in which Lord Nelson was slain. Al- 
though now within a few leagues of the straits, we 
gain little or nothing, on our direct course, being 
obliged to beat against a strong gale directly ahead. 
10, P. M. gale increases ; some of the sails and 
upper rigging split and carried away ; boisterous 
sea ; wet decks ; heavy swell ; shipped several 
large seas. Little or no sleep this night. 

2bth. Gale (Continues through the day, increasing 
in strength at night ; continue beating as yesterday, 
with no direct progress ahead ; in the afternoon, 
fore-sail carried away. Beating up for the straits, 
passed (N.) Trafalgar bay, and (S.) 2 or 3 miles 
S. W. of Cape Spartel, giving us a clear and near 
view of the N. W. coast of Africa, kingdom of 
Fez, also the S. W. coast of Europe, between 
Cadiz and Tariffa. 

26^A. Clear sun ; gale somewhat moderated ; 
continue beating. About 10 this evening, suddenly 
found ourselves in the middle of a large French 
fleet, containing, as far as we could judge, in a 
clear night, with a full moon, about 50 vessels, 
consisting of armed ships, transports and merchant- 
men, all standing for Cadiz. About 12 at night, 
wind lulled, leaving heavy swells, and treating us 
to wet decks. 

27ifA. Calm morning ; nothing to be seen of the 
French fleet. From 2 this morning to 3 P. M. 



20 JOURNAL OF A TOUR, &C. 

rather retrograded than advanced : wind then 
sprang up from N. E. ; our exertions in beating 
were renewed. Thus zigzaging from side to side, 
were presented fine views of the bold mountain 
scenery on the African, as well as European coasts. 
Tangier, at the distance of about five miles, ap- 
peared to great advantage, situated on a N. W. 
declivity of the mountain. About sun-set, the 
moon rose full and fair. At 8, P. M., the wind, to 
our great joy, sprang up from the west, and afford- 
ed a prospect of a favourable breeze to carry us 
through the Gut. At half past 8, discovered Ta- 
riffa light-house, bearing E. N. E. distant about 6 
miles. 

28^A. At half past 2, this morning, passed the 
Rock of Gibraltar. I regret much that it is incon- 
sistent with the nature of the service in which we 
are employed, to stop at and view this great strong- 
hold, which has figured so much both in ancient 
and modern history. It must be mortifying to the 
rest of Europe, and particularly to Spain, that 
England should hold this supposed impregnable 
fortress, denominated, with propriety, the key of 
the Mediterranean. The immense advantages de- 
rived to Great Britain from the possession of this 
garrison, both in time of peace and war, must be 
obvious to every one acquainted with the state of 
Europe and those parts of Asia and Africa which 
border on the Mediterranean. 



AT SEA. 



21 



^' Gibraltar, once a celebrated town and fortress 
of Andalusia, is at present in possession of Great 
Britain. Till the arrival of the Saracens in Spain, 
which took place in the year 711, or 712, the rock 
of Gibraltar went by the name of Mons Calpe, 
On their arrival, a fortress w^as built upon it, and it 
obtained the name of Gibel-Tarif^ from the name 
of their general, and thence Gibraltar. It was in 
the possession of the Spaniards and Moors by 
turns, till it was taken from the former by a com- 
bined fleet of English and Dutch ships, under the 
command of Sir George Rooke, in 1704 ; and this 
rather through accident than any thing else. The 
prince of Hesse, with 1800 men, landed on the 
isthmus, but an attack on that side was found to be 
impracticable, on account of the steepness of the 
rock. The fleet fired 15,000 shot without making 
any impression on the works, so that the fortress 
seems to be eqally impregnable, both to the Bri- 
tish and Spaniards, except by famine. At last, a 
party of sailors, having got merry with grog, rowed 
close under the New Mole in their boats ; and as 
they saw that the garrison, who consisted oiily of 
100 men, did not mind them, they were encouraged 
to attempt a landing ; and having mounted the 
mole, hoisted a red jacket as a signal of possession. 
This being immediately observed from the fleet, 
more sailors were sent out, who, in like manner, 
having ascended the works, got possession of a 
2 



22 JOURNAL OF A TOUR, &C. 

battery, and soon obliged the town to surrendien 
After many fruitless attempts to recover it, it was 
confirmed to the English by the treaty ef Utrecht, 
in 1713. Repeated attempts have been since 
made to wrest it from England, but without suc- 
cess : the last war hath made it more famous than 
ever, when it underwent a long siege against the 
united forces of Spain and France by land and 
sea, and was gallantly defended by general Elliot 
and his garrison, to the great loss and disgrace of 
the assailants ; though it must be granted, the 
place is by nature almost impregnable. Near 300 
pieces of cannon, of different bores, and chiefly 
brass, which were sunk before the port in the float- 
ing batteries, have been raised and sold, to be dis- 
tributed among the garrison. It is a commodious 
port, and formed naturally for commanding the 
passage of the straits, or, in other words, the en- 
trance into the Mediterranean and Levant seas. 
But the road is neither safe against an enemy, nor 
storms ; the bay is about twenty leagues in circum- 
ference. The straits are 24 miles long, and 15 
broad ; through which sets a current from the At- 
lantic ocean into the Mediterranean, and for the 
stemming of it, a brisk gale is required. The town 
was neither large nor beautiful, and in the last siege 
was totally destroyed by the enemies' bombs, but 
on account of its fortifications, is esteemed the key 
of Spain, and is always furnished with a garrison 



AT SEA. 23 

well provided for its defence. The harbor is form- 
ed by a mole, which is well fortified and planted 
with guns. Gibraltar is accessible on the land side 
only by a narrow passage between the rock and 
the sea, but that is walled and fortified both by art 
and nature, and so inclosed by high steep hills, as 
to be almost inaccessible that way. It has but two 
gates on that side, and as many toward the sea. 
Across this isthmus, the Spaniards have drawn a 
fortified line, chiefly with a view to hinder the gar- 
rison of Gibraltar from having any intercourse with 
the country behind them ; notwithstanding which, 
they carry on a clandestine trade, particularly in 
tobacco, of which the Spaniards are exceedingly 
fond. The garrison is, however, confined within 
very narrow limity ; and, as the ground produces 
scarcely any thing, all their provisions are brought 
them either from England or from Ceuta, on the 
opposite coast of Barbary. Formerly Gibraltar 
was entirely under military government ; but that 
power producing those abuses which are naturally 
attendant on it, the parliament thought proper to 
erect it into a body corporate, and the civil power 
is now lodged in its magistrates." 

Coasted along the shore off Andalusia and Gra- 
nada in Spain, 5 or 6 leagues from land. At II, 
A. M. discovered snow on the mountains in Gra- 
nada. 
- 29^/£. Sunday. Several vessels in sight, but all 



24 JOURNAL OF A TOUR, &C. 

like ours nearly becalmed. At 4, P. M. Mr. King 
performed divine service, being the first Sabbath 
since we sailed, which afforded an opportunity for 
the performance of this interesting duty on board ; 
occasioned partly by rough weather, and partly by 
indisposition of Mr. King. The service and every 
part of the exercises were solemn and impressive. 
Advanced but little on our voyage this day ; now 
off Cape De Gatt ; Lat. 36^ 12', Lon. 2<> W. 
serene, soft, pleasant air, peculiar to this region. 

SOth. Now about 1200 miles short of Malta. 
The bold, picturesque, and changing views we 
have yesterday and to-day had, of the mountains 
of Grenada, amply compensate for the tardiness of 
our progress. While we are experiencing the heat 
of a scorching sun, nearly vertical, it is pleasant to 
behold the glittering snow extending downward 
from the summit of the highest mountains about 
half way, and appearing to rest upon a belt of 
clouds suspended at that altitude. Below that re- 
gion appear cities, towns, villages, watch towers 
and cottages, all white and beautiful, seeming to 
hang upon the dark declivities like the nest of the 
eagle. 

Jufy 1st. Sail all this day in full view" of the 
coast of Algiers, distant 15 leagues. Health and 
appetite much improved. Wind lulls at evening, 
which is remarkably serene and pleasant ; the stars 
more brilliant, and the Galaxy more luminous than 



AT SEA. 



25 



I ever saw while on land. Many stars in the train 
of the galaxy are distinctly visible, which 1 had 
never before seen. At 4, P. M. passed the re- 
nowned city of Algiers, that nest of pirates and 
robbers, and,- to the disgrace of civilized Europe, 
their common nuisance. 

2d and 3rf. Algiers yet in view. 

Atli. Independence. Serene, pleasant weather. 
While the people of ' our free and happy country' 
are celebrating the natal day of their national free- 
dom, enjoying and abusing the good things of that 
favored land, we are near the middle of the Medi- 
terranean sea, shut out from the participation with 
them in the festivities and exercises of the day, 
•* O fortunatos, nimium sua si bona norint Agri- 
colas." 

bth. In the course of the afternoon saw several 
large shoals of the black fish, so called, being a 
smaller species of the Grampus, weighing, as is 
said, from 20 to 25 cwt. 

6th. Sunday. The wind having hauled a little 
more to the N. and the brig having stood N. E. 2| 
days, being now between 40^ and 41° N. Lat. in 
sight of, and near the island of Sardinia, tacked 
ship, and stood S. S. E. toward the coast of Africa, 
with a light breeze. 

This is the 9th day since we entered the Me- 
diterranean, at which time, from our then favorable 
prospects, w^e confidently expected to have reach- 
2* 



26 JOURNAL OF A TOUR, &C. 

ed Malta before this time. But disappointments 
attend us in all conditions of life, both by land and 
sea ; and, as I believe, generally, if not invariably, 
for our real and ultimate advantage. Our present 
prospect is unfavorable to our arrival at that island 
within a w^eek from this time. It is now^ 39 days 
since we sailed from New York. The E. S. E. 
wind, which so long, at this season, prevails here, 
comes off from Egypt, and the desert of Lybia, is 
called the Sirocco, and always attended with an 
unpleasant sensation of languor, dull head-ache and 
drowsiness, so uncomfortable in a long sea- voyage. 
A fine dust is observable in the atmosphere, which 
affects the eyes. Divine^ service by Mr. King. I 
am now prepared to say of this pious and faithful 
servant of Christ, that he well deserves that high 
estimation in which he stands, both in the Old and 
New World. At 12 o'clock, Lat. 40° 25', E. Lon. 
6"^ 45' ; difference of time between this and New 
York, 5 hours 30 minutes. 

Ith. Clear and very warm morning : Sirocco 
again at 10, A. M. but soon settles away into a dead 
calm. Several of the sailors plunged into the sea 
to swim and bathe. In the evening attended prayer, 
in accordance with the monthly concert. Mr. King 
performed the service with his usual ability ; he 
also gave us an interesting account of the com 
mencement and progress of that excellent institu- 
tion in France by the Protestants, while he was at 



AT SEA. 27 

Paris. The first meeting was composed of himself, 
one other American, and a Protestant Frenchman, 
in an obscure upper chamber. It is now attended 
by vast numbers, even in France. 

Kth. Saw two white whales pass the brig ; this 
day in Lat. 37° 47', Lon. 8° 42' E. a mourning dove 
perched upon our stern, and after resting 10 or 15 
minutes, took her flight, in a direction toward the 
African coast, distant about 70 miles. Though I 
regretted she made us so short a visit, I wished her 
a prosperous voyage. The length of time we have 
been on the Mediterranf^an, and the Sirocco and 
calms we have experienced, begin to render our 
voyage somewhat irksome. We have yet before 
us a voyage of considerable length. In addition 
to this, we still remain in profound ignorance of 
the state of affairs in Greece, and whether our 
destination will be Poros, Egina or Syra. We 
expect, however, at Malta to obtain information 
which may decide that question, and also whether 
we proceed from thence with or without convoy. 
\Qth. Passed the island of Galita, Lat. 37° 30', 
E. Lon. 9° 15', in fair view, distant about four 
leagues ; P. M. saw the African shore for a long 
stretch, S. E. off Galita. Breeze and current 3 to 
5 knots ; fast approaching Cape Bon, which we 
have long and anxiously looked out for. Prospect 
of seeing Malta by the end of the week brightens. 
11^//. Serene and very warm. On sounding, 



2S JOURNAL OF A TOUR, &C. 

found 55 fathoms, and again, 30. At half past 10, 
A. M., made Cape Guardia, S. S. E. distant 3 
leagues, and about 2 leagues N. W. of Cape Car- 
thage. 12 o'clock off the bay of Tunis ; island of 
Zembra, a naked rock, standing near the east en- 
trance of the bay, in plain view ; 4 or five miles 
beyond which, we discover Cape Bon. At 5, P. 
M., with a fair but gentle breeze, passed Cape 
Bon ; now about 180 miles to Malta. At 7, P. M . 
spoke a French frigate, standing S. S. W. : to our 
question, " where bound ?" the answer was, 
" cruizing." 8, P. M., made the island Pantellaria. 
Clear night, with a fresh breeze, N. N. E. ; Lat. by 
observation, 37° 30', Lon. 10° 12' E. 

IWi. At 8, A. M. Pantellaria bore S. E. 2 
leagues distant. This interesting island deserves 
particular notice in the journal of a voyager. 

It is situated Lat. 36° 48', Lon. 11° 58' E. and 
belongs to Sicily : 30 miles in circumference; 
volcanic: — products, wine, finest raisins, and other 
fruits, among the cheapest and best fruits in the 
Mediterranean. Population estimated at 4,600 ; 
language and dress a mixture of Italian and Arabic. 
Land high, and in clear weather may be seen from 
the deck of a ship 15 leagues. Within the summit 
is a great natural curiosity, a lake, 4 miles inland, 
the remains of a crater,) of an unfathomable depth 
of water. The town and castle at the head of a 
cove, on the S. W. side of the island. Here stands 



AT SEA. ^9 

a huge church, several chapels, and a Capuchin 
establishment, all which are plainly seen from our 
deck, about 5 miles distant. P. M. upon a nearer 
view (N. E.) of this island, several handsome villa- 
ges appear more plainly. The ascending roads, 
hedges, and vineyards are distinctly visible. 

I3th, Sunday, Early this morning, hopes were 
entertained of seeing the long looked for island of 
Malta before night ; but at 10 A. M. breeze dies 
away, and leaves us for the remainder of the day 
in a dead calm ; heat of the sun extremely oppres- 
sive. Mr. King performed divine service. It de- 
serves particular notice, that the performance of 
this duty has a powerful influence in the preserva- 
tion and promotion of sobriety and good order 
among all on board. 

I4th. About 9, A. M. a gentle breeze, from S. 
S W. ; 4 knots, A ship of war, supposed of the 
U. S. standing west, passed about 2 miles distant. 
At half past 2, P. M. had the great satisfaction to 
make Malta, over our larboard bow, 25 or 30 miles 
distant. This day passed by Rome, and part of 
the island of Sicily ; the latter in sight. 

I5th. Malta yet in sight, but no nearer than at 
sun-set last evening. About 12 o'clock a breeze 
sprang up, and afforded us the satisfaction of ap- 
proaching Malta in a fine, pleasant afternoon. At 
4, P.M., towers, churches, fortifications, vineyards, 
&c. &c. appeared, presenting a most animating 



30 JOURNAL OF A TOUR, &C. 

view of this far-famed island. At 6 P. M, passed 
St. Paul's harbor, near the shore ; the wind had 
lulled, and the calm afforded a fine opportunity for 
viewing that memorable place, where the Apostle 
was shipwrecked ; Acts, xxvii. 

In reading the account of this shipwreck, I had 
ever experienced some difficulty in comprehending 
how there could be a place formed on the coast of 
an island, where *' two seas met." But in viewing 
the spot pointed out, where the ship was '* thrust 
in," the difficulty was removed. The island of 
Gozo lies west of the main island, .(Malta,) and is 
separated from it only by a strait, from half a mile 
to a quarter of a mile in width. When a violent 
Euroclydon (east wind) prevails, and the seas run 
high, a powerful current is forced in at each end 
of this strait, which ranges nearly north and south. 
The ship was driven in at the north end, and struck 
in a small nook on the Malta side, about forty rods 
from the entrance. This strait must have been, 
I think, the " creek with a shore," which was dis- 
covered, and " into the which they were minded, 
if it were possible, to thrust in the ship." For, 
while lying off to the north, the entrance of the 
strait has the exact appearance of the mouth of a 
creek or river. 

To commemorate this event, the Roman Catho- 
lics have built a small marble chapel, which yet 
stands, within 40 or 50 feet of the water's edge, 



AT SEA. 31 

where they say the ship " was broken with the vio- 
lence of the waves." About two miles east of this 
chapel, on a handsome elevation of ground, stands 
a neatly built and populous city, surrounding an ele- 
gant church, erected in honor of St. Paul, and 
bearing his name. This they pomt out as the place 
where Publius, the chief man of the island lived, 
and whose father, Paul healed. 

At half past 6, the pilot boats swarmed out of 
the quarantine harbor, and were soon along side of 
us. I counted 18 of these boats, all ingeniously 
constructed and beautifully painted, manned wholly 
by Maltese, with all the motley costume, language, 
complexion, and characteristics of that active peo- 
ple. All clamored for employment, to conduct the 
brig into the harbor ; some in Arabic, others in 
Italian, some in Spanish, French, English, and 
many in all those languages mixed together. One 
would have thought another confusion of tongues 
had taken place. After an hour's delay, in hearing 
this loud and confused jargon, Capt. Page agreed 
with two of the boats to conduct us into the quar- 
antine harbor, for the customary price for the like 
service, to be ascertained by the American consul. 
A string of boats was immediately formed at our 
bow ; and at 9 P. M. we dropped anchor in the 
quarantine harbor. It was a delightful evening 
and night ; the moon shone with great lustre. It 
was the eve of one of their fete days, observable 



32 JOURNAL OF A TOUR, &C. 

by the Romish church. The jinghng of belis, for 
which the Maltese are remarkable, the illumina- 
tions and brilliant fire- works, presented a scene to 
me, novel, and not without interest. The profu- 
sion of incense burned in the churches, perfumed 
the air to such a degree, that it was plainly percep- 
tible for more than half a mile from the city. 

" The islands of Malta, Gozo and Cumino occu- 
py an extent from S. E. by E. to N. W. by W. of 
eight and a half leagues. Cape St. Dimitri, the 
N. W. end of Gozo, lying in Lat. 36° 3', Lon. 14° 
10', at 50 miles S. E. half E. from the S. E. end 
of Pantellaria ; and point Benhisa, the S. E. end 
of Malta, in Lat. 35° 49' 30'', Lon. 14° 33' 30". 

Malta is celebrated for the magnificence of its 
capital, the grandeur, extent, and strength of its 
fortifications, and its importance to England. In 
the Odyssey of Homer, this island is mentioned 
under the name of Hyperia> and it is recorded that 
a colony of Phoenicians was established upon it, 
1500 years before the Christian era. It was sub- 
sequently called Ogygia ; and while bearing this 
name, the Phoenicians were driven from it by the 
Greeks, who about 736 years before Christ, called 
it Melitaion or Mehta, whence its present name is 
derived. Here the Greeks established the worship 
of Apollo, their favourite, and Archons governed 
the island. In rather more than 200 years after 
the first settlement of the Greeks, the Carthagini- 



AT MALTA. 33 

ans disputed their right of possession, and the island 
was for some time divided between them ; but 
ultimately the Carthaginian power prevailed, while 
both the Greek and the Punic, or Phoenician lan- 
guages were equally spoken. At length the riches 
of Carthage, which had flowed to Malta, rendered 
it a desirable acquisition to the Romans, by whom 
it was afterwards captui^ed : and thus was intro- 
duced a third language, and a third admixture of 
national habitudes and customs. On the division 
of the Roman empire, Malta fell to the lot of Con- 
stantino, when the ancient energy or ferocity^ de- 
chned and expired. In 454 of the Christian era, 
the Vandals had entered Sicily, and taken posses- 
sion of Malta, from which, ten years afterwards, 
they were driven by the Goths. Under Justinian, 
however, in 553, Belisarius landed, and re-united 
Malta to the empire, from which time its opulence 
again increased ; but it has never recovered its 
former splendor. In 870, the Arabs were in pos- 
session of Malta, but were driven out the same 
year, by the Greeks ; 34 years after, they entered 
a second time, and exterminated the Greeks, al- 
though the rest of the inhabitants were in general 
spared and protected. A system of piracy now 
ensued, and the Maltese became the ablest corsairs 
in the Mediterranean. In 1090, the Normans took 
possession of Malta, and they afterwards ceded the 
island to the Germans. It continued in subjection 
3 



34 JOURNAL OP A TOUR, &C. 

to the emperors for 72 years, and then fell under 
the dominion of France ; but shortly after, Roger, 
Admiral of Arragon, subdued the island, and it 
became a fief of the kingdoms of Arragon and Cas- 
tile ; but was ultimately united to Sicily. Such 
were the changes which had taken place in the 
government of these islands, when the emperor 
Charles Fifth added them to his vast dominions. 
This potentate seems to have been the first who 
understood the real value of these possessions, and 
who appreciated them as deserving that value from 
their commanding situation, over all the adjacent 
seas. In 1530, he made choice of the order of 
St. John, of Jerusalem, and established the knights 
of that order, conditionally, as perpetual sovereigns 
of the islands of Malta, Gozo, <S6c. Of these 
knights, the superior was Grand Master of Malta, 
and he was invested for life, with the rights of 
sovereignty over the islands. This mode of gov- 
ernment continued until June, 1798, when General 
Bonaparte gained possession, previously to his 
landing in Egypt. On the 26th of September, in 
the same year, the islands were, in consequence, 
put into a state of blockade by the British forces, 
which was continued against Malta until the 4th 
of September, 1800, when it was surrendered to 
them. Since that period, these islands have con- 
tinued under the British flag. Gozo and Cumino 
are always attached to the fate of Malta. By the 



AT MALTA. 35 

Greeks, Gozo was denominated Gaulos, and Cii- 
mino, Hephastias. 

A stranger, on his arrival at Malta, cannot but 
be greatly struck with the change of character 
which its inhabitants have undergone, since the 
time of the order. Under the government of the 
knights, the agriculture and commerce of the island 
were alike distinguished ; the scene has since 
changed, and Malta has become one of the greatest 
depots of merchandize in the whole Mediterranean ; 
and the natives have acquired habits of industry, 
and developed sources of profit, to which they 
were formerly total strangers. The Maltese who 
have lately traded to the Adriatic and the Black 
seas, must congratulate themselves on observing 
that their own port, formerly of no account in 
commerce, is now a scene of far greater activity 
and profit than either Genoa, Naples, Venice, or 
even Leghorn. 

The south coast of Malta is altogether cliffy, 
and destitute of harbors ; it is full of grottos, or 
caves, the rocks being for the most part craggy ; 
but facing the S. E. is a large bay, named Marsa 
Scirocco ; and on the N. E , at 4 miles from the 
easternmost point, is the Grand Port of Valetta, 
the capital of the island. On the west of the lat- 
ter, separated by a peninsula, on which stands the 
city and its fortifications, is another large port, call- 
ed Marsa Musceit, or port Musset, having on its 



36 JOURNAL OF A TOUR, &C. 

west side, a small island, near which all vessels 
from the Levant, or any other place suspected of 
contagious disease, perform quarantine. At nearly 
two leagues to the north-westward of Marsa Mus- 
ceit, is an open bay, that of St. Paul, which faces 
the N. E., and beyond this, on the west, divided 
from it by a peninsula, is the largest port or bay of 
Melheha^ completely open to the N. W. These 
are the principal bays of Malta, but there are 
several smaller harbors. 

The Maltese islands are calcareous rocks, con- 
taining some petrifactions and concretions. This 
rock is mostly of a porous nature, and a great 
proportion of it is covered with earth originally 
brought from Sicily, and other places. The ground 
is never suffered to remain uncultivated, but is 
constantly sown every year. Each season yields 
its peculiar crop ; and considering the nature of the 
ground, the produce is extraordinary. The color 
of the soil varies in different districts, and it is sel- 
dom more than one foot deep above the surface of 
the rock. In summer it is irrigated chiefly by the 
night-dew ; but the rock, being porous, retains the 
moisture, and keeps the earth constantly fresh. 
The earth is always removed once in ten years, in 
order to clear the rock of a thick crust which forms 
upon it, and prevents the moisture from sufficiently 
penetrating. 



AT MALTA. 37 

Malta seems rather to have been intended for a 
quarry than a habitation of man ; for it contains 
Httle else beside stoned In Sicily, every advantage 
has been lavished by nature, and none obtained by 
art. Here it is exactly the reverse ; industry has 
raised splendid palaces and fruitful fields, where 
nature had laid down a rock-desert. The very 
hedges of the fields are masses of stone piled on 
one another. When the ground is properly pre- 
pared, it produces in the first year water-melons 
and garden plants ; in the next, an excellent fruit, 
preserved during the winter, and distinguished by 
the name of Maltese-melons ; and afterwards, bar- 
ley, the straw of which furnishes fodder for the 
cattle. The ground is plowed in the third year, 
and planted with cotton ; and in the fourth, sowed 
with corn. The land afterwards yields these dif- 
ferent crops alternately ; but care is always taken 
to prepare the ground, particularly in the year in 
which the cotton-tree is come into bearing, when 
it is necessary to reduce the earth into a kind of 
powder. The greatest part of the grounds are 
planted with cotton, of which three species are 
cultivated ; one natural to the country, another 
from Siam, and a third of a common color, called 
that of the Antillas. Wheat is sown in November, 
after the ground has been plowed three times, and 
cut in the beginning of June. Barley is also sown 
in the same month, and reaped m May. There is 
3* 



38 JOURNAL OF A TOUR, &e. 

a kind of corn in Malta called tammon^ which grows 
in poor land, and the bread made of the flour is 
particularly white : this grain is sown in February. 
Every field is inclosed with stone walls, five or six 
feet high, to shelter tUe plants from the effects of 
wind, rain, and storms, during the spring and au- 
tumn. 

Malta and Gozo produce various fruits of exqui- 
site flavor, with excellent roots, and very fine flow- 
ers ; the roses, in particular, are described as more 
sweetly scented than those of any other country. 
These islands likewise yield great quantities of 
cumino, aniseed, kali magnum, loricella, silla, ai^d 
lichen : the last grows on the rocks exposed to the 
north, and is used for dying the amaranthus color. 
Silla is pecuHar to these islands ; it grows to the 
height of five feet, bears a red flower, and serves 
for fodder. The gardens in Malta are numerous, 
especially toward the east. They are generally 
ornamented with groves of orange and lemon trees, 
but these are not permitted to grow to any con- 
siderable height, on account of the wind, which 
would blow off* the fruit and break the branches. 
The greatest attention is paid to the orange trees, 
which are commonly watered twice a day ; the 
tops are trimmed into a round form, resembling an 
umbrella, and they grow on one single straight 
stem, as do likewise the lemon trees, the branches 
of which are sometimes suffered to extend, till they 



AT MALTA. 39 

form a kind of bower. These trees are almost all 
raised in tubs, and placed in the most sheltered 
spots. Kitchen gardens have greatly increased 
here, and produce cauliflowers, with other vegeta- 
bles of the finest quality. Water is constantly kept 
for their use in cisterns hewn out of the rock, and 
trenches are dug around them to collect the rain. 
Bees are kept in great quantities in some parts of 
the island ; the hives are horizontal, in the eastern 
style. The honey has a most delicious flavor, and 
the ancients compared it to that of Hybla. 

The asses, which are called Janets, are famous 
for strength and beauty. The ewes are incredi- 
bly fruitful : they commonly drop lambs twice a 
year, and sometimes yean four at a time. 

Frequent flights of birds of passage recreate and 
reward the sportsman ; of these, haccaficos, quails, 
and plovers are most dehcate, juicy food. The 
finest fish is very abundant on the coast ; and is 
considerably cheap. The oysters are not good, 
but a variety of other excellent shell-fish supply 
their place. 

Fertile, however, as Malta is in many parts, it is 
far from being able to furnish its population with 
the necessaries of life without foreign assistance. 
In 1632, the population of Malta and Gozo was 
51,750. In 1798, Malta contained 90,000, and 
Gozo 24,000 inhabitants, total 114,000 ; a very ex- 



40 JOURNAL OF A TOUR, &C. 

traordinary population in proportion to the small 
extent of the islands. 

Malta contains two cities, and twenty-two casals 
or villages. The original capital being Citta Vec- 
chia, the old or notable city, which still preserves, 
among the inhabitants, the name of Mdina, signify- 
ing city, and it is the seat of the bishoprick. Be- 
sides the Cathedral, which is large and handsome, 
it contains several other churches, monasteries, &c. 
The town is so elevated, that from it may be seen 
the whole island, and sometimes the coasts of Afri- 
ca and Sicily. The catacombs in this place have 
always been celebrated ; they are very extensive, 
and contain streets in all directions, which are 
formed with such a degree of regularity, that they 
have been called the subterraneous city. 

Near Citta Vecchia, on the south, is the grotto 
of St. Paul, which is used as a church, and which 
is an extraordinary cave, divided into three separate 
parts, by iron grates. The sepulchral grottos of 
the Benjemma mountains, at two miles to the west- 
ward of Citta Vecchia, also rank among the great 
curiosities of Malta. 

The MalteF!e, although subjugated from time to 
time by different nations, retain the peculiarities of 
an original character. 

Many countenances indicate an African origin. 
They are commonly short, strong, plump, with 
curled hair, flat noses, turned up lips, and the color 



AT MALTA. 41 

of their skin olive, the same as that of the people of 
Barbary ; their language, also, is so nearly the 
same, being impure Arabic, that they perfectly un- 
derstand each other. They are generally indus- 
trious, active, faithful, economical, courageous, and 
rank with the best sailors in the Mediterranean sea. 
Such is the peculiar situation of the different parts 
of the islands, that much of their intercourse vv^ith 
each other is carried on by boats ; and hence, they 
early in life, become familiar with the use of a sci- 
ence which leads to bold and skilful seamanship. 
But with these useful qualities, they retain defects 
attributed to the Africans, being mercenary, jeal- 
ous, passionate, and vindictive. The people in 
general are highly fantastical and superstitious ; 
but their ignorance does not w^holly unfit them for 
the cultivation of the arts. Their temperance is 
exemplary. They are fond of coffee and choGO- 
late, and drink wine imported from Sicily. Their 
food consists chiefly of vegetables and fish. The 
Maltese, of all other people, are the most attached 
to their country ; and their constant hope is, to 
end their days in what they dignify with the title of 
fiore del mondo, or, the flower of the world. 

The first stone of the present capital, Valetta, 
was laid by the renowned Grand Master, La Val- 
lette, in 1566. Although built on irregular and 
broken ground, it is extremely handsome. The 
houses are low ; but they all have one or more 



42 JOURNAL OF A TOUR, &C. 

balconies for walking on. The streets are wide, 
generally at right angles with each other, with 
commodious foot-paths on each side ; they are 
paved with flat, square stones, and are so free from 
mud, that even during winter, the feet remain per- 
fectly dry. The city has three gates, and the prin- 
cipal street reaches from the castle of St. Elmo to 
the royal gate, on the south-west. Besides private 
cisterns to every house, there are also public ones, 
together with a fountain, the source of which is in 
the southern part of the island, from which the 
water is conveyed in an aqueduct. When the 
winter rains are not sufficient to fill the cisterns, this 
affords a constant supply. The houses are neat, 
built with stone ; the roofs form a flat terrace, 
plastered with pozzalana, with pipes conducting 
to the cisternSj so that all the rain water is pre- 
served. 

The church of St. John, on the S. W. side of 
the city, is one of its principal ornaments ; and St. 
John's day is one of its highest festivals. 

The approach to the harbor of Valetta is exceed- 
ingly picturesque and interesting ; and the fortifi- 
cations, close to which every ship has to pass, seem 
sufficient to annihilate the most powerful naval 
force that could be brought against it. 

The present number of troops stationed here by 
the English government, are three regiments of 



AT MALTA. 43 

British soldiers, and one of Maltese, of about one 
thousand each. 

In coming from the eastward and northward, as 
you approach the harbor, you will see the round 
light-tower of St. Elmo, standing over the point be- 
tween the two harbors, and which at first appears 
like a sail. You will also see white cliffs, with a 
white church, near the S. E. end of the island. 

It is no less curious than amusing to view the 
diversities of dress and appearance among the 
motley crowd which business daily assembles on 
the marina of Valetta. Beside the English sol- 
diers, sailors and merchants, many of whom have 
their warehouses there, one sees Barbnreque tra- 
ders, wrapt in their long shawls and peculiar ha- 
biliments, whose settled gravity is contrasted with 
the noise of the Maltese boatmen and porters, a 
lively set of people, having much more of the Ita- 
lian than of the African character, although some 
of them evidently appear to be of the latter origin. 
Here are also about the harbor, at the Lazaretto, 
Parlalory, &c. some Maltese of a superior class, 
such as the port-captains, the officers of the Sanita, 
masters of pilot-boats, and others, who imitate the 
English, and speak their language imperfectly, but 
may be readily known by their swarthy counte- 
nances, and characteristic activity." 

Malta, July I6th. Extremely warm. At 8, A. 
M, repaired, by direction, to the Lazaretto, a large 



44 JOURNAL OF A TOUR, &C. 

Stone building, at the water's edge, standing on the 
quarantine ground ; delivered in our letters, news- 
papers, &c. for fumigation. They were received 
at our hands by the proper officer, with a pair of 
long tongs, while we were obliged to stand at a 
respectful distance from this dignitary, the knight 
of the smoke of purification. Here we fortunately 
found Capt. Bell, of the U. S. schooner Porpoise, 
personally acquainted with Mr. King ; are happy 
to hear that he is lately from Smyrna, and is about 
to return thither ; that his quarantine expires, and 
he shall take pratique to-morrow. But having 
learned by a Boston paper of the 1st of June, 
brought out by the brig Sultana, from Boston, that 
the brig Herald sailed from New York, on the 
28th of May, and expecting her arrival here about 
this time, had concluded to wait a few days, to 
take her under convoy to Greece, on his way to 
Smyrna, and will sail early on the morning of the 
19th. Thus are we providentially furnished with 
convoy, without a moment's delay on that account. 
We learn here by report, that the Russians have 
passed the Pruth, and are now at war with the 
Turks. That some trifling skirmishing has taken 
place between them, but no action of importance ; 
that the Emperor of Russia was at Odessa, with 
the Empress, and was expected to take the field 
soon, at the head of his numerous army : that Ibra- 
him Pacha was about to leave the Morea, with 



AT MALTA. 46 

his troops, and return to Egypt ; that every thing 
in the Levant was in a state of tranquillity ; that 
the plague was at Smyrna, and at the islands oP 
Spetifia, Hydra and Egina ; that a great fire had 
broken out at Smyrna, about the middle of June, 
which had consumed 250 or 300 houses in that 
part of the city inhabited by the Turks ; that 
Smyrna, about the same time had been visited by 
an earthquake, which had destroyed several houses; 
that Count Capo d'Istria, the President of Greece , 
was now at Navarino, but was expected soon to 
return to Poros, and from thence to Egina, the 
present seat of the Greek government. Had the 
satisfaction to see here in the quarantine harbor, a 
Russian ship of war, along side of which lies a 
Turkish armed ship, lately taken by the former in 
single combat. 

The quarantine laws, and other port regulations 
here, are very strict, and rigidly observed. By the 
politeness of Mr. King, was introduced to the 
American consul, Mr. Eynard, a French gentle- 
man, resident here, who kindly tendered his servi- 
ces, in any thing he could do to oblige us. 

We also learn here, that the French fleet we met 
on the night of the 26th of June, in Trafalgar bay, 
were on their passage from Marseilles to Cadiz, 
to transport some French troops and munitions of 
war from thence to the Balearic islands, lately ceded 
by Spain to France. 

4 



46 JOURNAL OP A TOUR, &C. 

I7th. Weather continues oppressively warm. 
At 8 this morning, went with Mr. King to the 
Parlatorio, where we met Messrs. Goodell and Bird, 
with their famihes, missionaries, late from Syria, 
who left that country in April last, on account of 
the present Turkish war, but expect to return 
thither as soon as the state of things there shall be 
such as not to endanger their personal safety. We 
also found here Messrs. Hallock and Smith, mis- 
sionaries resident here, also Rev. Mr. Temple, Mr. 
Wilson, and other gentlemen from America— with 
all of whom we had much agreeable and interest- 
ing conversation, though somewhat embarrassed 
by bars and banisters necessary for the observance 
of quarantine regulations. 

We had the pleasure to be introduced to Count 
Contostavlos, a Greek gentleman, and one of the 
agents of the President, Capo d'Istria. He speaks 
English, and gives us much useful information re- 
specting the present state of things in Greece ; 
has engaged to furnish us with letters to the Presi- 
dent, on the subject of our business in Greece, 
which, w^e expect, will be highly serviceable to us 
in the discharge of the duties of our agency. 

At 5 this morning, arrived here, and anchored 
along side of us, the brig Tenedos, Capt. Loring, 
from Boston, bound to Smyrna. This brig will 
also take convoy with us. We also found here, in 
the families of Messrs. Goodell and Bird, the faithful " 



AT MALTA. 47 

Greek servant, Antonio, a stout, healthy, robust 
man, about 40 years of age, a native of the island 
of Cyprus. He travelled in the service of Mr. 
King and Mr. Fisk, through their long and perilous 
journies in Syria and Egypt, rendering them es- 
sential service. He speaks the modern Greek and 
Italian languages, and by his approved honesty and 
fidelity would be very useful to us in Greece. He 
expressed a willingness to engage again in the ser- 
vice of his old master King. By consent of Messrs. 
Goodell and Bird, we engaged him to go with us, 
at four dollars per month. 

I8th. At 8 A. M. repaired again to the parlatorio. 
Met the American consul, Messrs. Goodell, Bird, 
Smith, Temple, and others of Mr. King's friends 
and acquaintance. Among them, was Worterbet, 
an Armenian priest, in full costume ; though yet 
young, he has travelled through Syria, Egypt, and 
other countries in the east, and speaks and writes 
the Syriac, Arabic, Turkish and Greek languages. 
At another visit on the parlatorio, this afternoon, 
had the satisfaction to meet Pharez, the jounger 
brother of the famous, persecuted Shidiac. He is 
a most interesting youth, about 22 years of age, 
very lean, and apparently in declining health. 
Persecuted also, by his family, and others in his 
own country, on account of embracing the Chris- 
tian faith, he has been obliged to flee hither for the 
preservation of his life. 



48 JOURNAL OP A TOUR, &C. 

To-morrow for Greece, from some part of which 
you may expect my next. In the mean time, I 
remain, yours in sincerity. 



LETTER II. 

Egina, Aug. 30th, 1828, 
Dear Sir, 
At 2 o'clock in the morning of the 19th of July, 
weighed anchor, and by the assistance of three pilot 
boats, were towed out of the quarantine harbor at 
Malta, the wind being hght. Coming out, we had 
a most delightful view of Malta, which exhibits a 
good specimen of an oriental city. The atmosphere 
was serene and cloudless. The vast number of boats 
and other craft moving in different directions about 
the mouth of the two harbors, exhibited a scene of 
business, life and activity, rarely seen in any part 
of the world. On an elevated platform, at the 
water^s edge, on the E. side of the entrance of the 
Valetta harbor, saw, suspended on gallow^s, the 
bodies, or rather skeletons, of Capt. Delano, and 
three others, Englishmen, executed and gibbeted 
here, eight or nine years since, for murder and pi- 
racy, committed with attendant circumstances of 
great atrocity. 



m^ AT SEA. 49 

In addition to the Herald, Capt. Bell has four 
other vessels under his convoy ; among which is a 
Russian merchantman, or transport ship. Fair, 
but moderate breeze, through the day and succeed- 
ing night. By concerted signals, the whole convoy 
collected at sun set, and sailed during the night as 
near the Porpoise as was convenient. 

20th. Sunday. Divine service by Mr. King. 
This, in many respects, is one of the pleasantest 
days I ever enjoyed. Weather fine, and not ex- 
cessively warm. It afforded much pleasure to 
view the diflerent vessels in the convoy, under sail, 
sometimes within hailing, and sometimes within 
speaking distance ; constantly changing their rela- 
tive positions, and answering signals shewn by the 
Porpoise ; and each crew emulous to display their 
seamanship, and the speed of their several vessels. 
The race ground was fair and spacious, not too 
rough, and afforded no danger of bolting. During 
the evening (moon S. at 7,) the air possessed all 
that balmy softness and salubrity so ofton admired 
and noticed by those passing through this sea at 
this season. 

22d. Warm and sultry. We now consider our- 
selves half way from Malta to Poros ; gentle, fair 
breeze ; saw 10 or 15 Grampus whale playing 
about the brig, snorting and puffing. 

23d. At 5, A. M. made Cape Matapan, a high 
promontory, distant about 12 leagues. This rc- 
4* 



50 JOURNAL OP A TOUR^I&C. 

markable cape was, by the ancients, called Taena- 
rus, on account of the vast caverns, grottoes and 
cavities wrought by the agitation of the sea, at the 
foot of this bold and elevated mountain. At 10, 
A. M. pleasant breeze, which, if continued, will 
carry us to Poros by to-morrow night. At 8, P. 
M. passed the island of Cerigo, lying about 30 
mites nearly E. of Matapan. This island is the 
aecient Cy theria, near which, Venus is said to have 
come into being, out of the froth of the sea, and to 
whom a temple was here erected and dedicated. 

24:tk. Sun extremely ardent and oppressive ; at 
9, A. M. breeze freshens ; at 12, off cape St. An- 
gelo, 2 leagues distant. This cape is noticeable, as 
being the south-eastern extremity of Europe. At 
half past 3, parted convoy, and filled away for 
Poros. 

25th, Wind directly ahead, blowing fresh. Sad- 
ly disappointed in our expectations of being at 
Poros by 12 o'clock. Beating up as well as we 
could, made the island of Hydra at 7, A. M. 
Strong head wind continues through the day and 
eight. Much indisposed by excessive heat and 
tedium* 

Hydra lies 37° 20' N. Lat. and 23° 30' E. Lon. ; 
is about 10 miles in length and 3 in breadth, com- 
posed wholly of gray rock, on all sides precipitous. 
It was settled by emigrants from the more northern 
parts of Greece, who brought with them a love of 



AT SEA. 51 

liberty and independence. The town is built at 
the N. E. corner of the island, and appears in the 
distance, compact, strong and beautiful ; the houses 
built of stone, all whitewashed, flat roofs, ranged 
in the form of an amphitheatre, ascending one 
above another from the water to the summit of the 
rock, an elevation of more than one thousand feet. 
Their population is estimated at 40,000, one third 
of whom are said to be merchants and sailors. 
From the barrenness of their island, the Hydriots, 
naturally bold and enterprising, found it necessary 
to derive their means of living and wealth from 
abroad. They soon became distinguished for their 
skill in ship-building and seamanship ; and for a 
long time before the commencement of the present 
war, were the carriers of the trade of the other 
Grecian islands to all parts of the Mediterranean. 
By this commerce they became rich and powerful, 
subject to no laws but their own, and enjoying all 
the rights and privileges of a free and independent 
republic, saving only, that they annually paid a 
stipulated sum, of no great amount, to the revenue 
of the Grand Seignior. But since the commence- 
ment of the war with the Turks, their resources 
have failed ; and this affords them a pretext for 
the piracies by which they have now distinguished 
themselves. The brave and patriotic Admiral 
Miaulis is a native of this island. 



52 JOURNAL OF A TOUR, &C. 

July 26^A. At day-break made Poros, 20 or 30 
miles distant, bearing N. N. W. ; at 12, off Cape 
Skillo ; powerful head wind ; hard day's work 
beating up for the harbor, where we dropped an- 
chor, at 7, P. M. Dr. Russ came on board, with 
whom Mr. Stuyvesant returned, and slept on shore. 
Thus, after 59 days at sea from New York to this 
island, we hope to enjoy, for a few days, at least, 
some of the comforts of terra firma. 

Our voyage, under the smiles of a kind, protect- 
ing providence, has been pleasant and prosperous. 
Nothing but slight indisposition, occasioned princi- 
pally by sea-sickness, and change of climate, has 
interrupted the enjoyment of good health by every 
one on board. I feel bound in justice, to say of 
Capt. Page, that excellent young man, that in the 
discharge of his duties as master, he has acquitted 
himself well. His steady and mild government of 
the crew, his good example in temperance and so- 
briety, his affability and kindness toward the pas- 
sengers, his care and good economy, in regard to 
the brig, her rigging and furniture, as well as the 
provisions and all other property on board, and, 
I will add, *tho' last, not least,' his discounte- 
nancing and suppressing all profane swearing 
and cursing on board, justly entitle him to high 
commendation, and the confidence of every one* 

The island of Poros, the ancient Calauria, lies 
in Lat. 37° 35' N. and about 23° E. Lon. on the 



POROS. 53 

east of that part of the Morea, anciently called 
Argolis, and divided from it by a strait of 150 or 
200 yards, in width, and is about 45 miles in cir- 
cumference. The city, which contains nearly the 
whole population of the island, is built on a naked, 
bold and precipitous rock, at the southern extremi- 
ty, the most contiguous to the Morea. No order 
was observed in the construction of the houses, 
(all of stone,) nor of the streets, lanes, or squares. 
The top of the rear wall of one house, serves for 
the foundation of the front wall of another, all be- 
ing flat roofs ; and thus, house upon house, some- 
what in the form of an inverted amphitheatre, the 
buildings ascend from the w^ater's edge to nearly, 
and in some parts, quite to the summit of the 
mountain ; leaving here and there, above some of 
them, a mass of impending rocks, of a frightful 
aspect. The present population is estimated at 
6,000. The harbor is excellent, and nearly embra- 
ces the whole cit3\ The Poriots, like the Hydri- 
ots, are remarkable for their bravery and enter- 
prise. They are esteemed the best sailors in 
Greece, the Hydriots only excepted. 

This island is famous in history for having upon 
it the temple of Neptune, the ruins of which are to 
be seen about 3 miles N. E. from the city ; several 
of the columns are yet standing. The coarseness 
of the stone, and inferiority of workmanship attract 
less attention of the traveller, while the reminis- 



54 JOURNAL OP A TOUR, &C. 

cences connected with this ancient edifice, are 
highly interesting to the historian. 

Demosthenes, having fallen under the displea- 
sure of some of the most powerful men at Athens, 
and especially of Antipater, fled to this temple for 
protection. His retreat, however, being discov- 
ered, Antipater, the then tyrant of Athens, sent 
one of his creatures, Archias, a play-actor, and who 
had before been on terms of friendship and inti- 
macy with Demosthenes, to endeavour, artfully to 
persuade him to return to Athens, assuring him of 
the protection and favor of his employer. But 
the orator penetrated the plan intended for his de- 
struction ; and being well assured that his death 
was resolved upon by his enemies, immediately 
took poison, sucking it through a quill, which he 
constantly kept about him ; and coming out of the 
temple, fell dead near the entrance, saying, as he 
fell, ^ my enemies may do to my body what they 
please, but tell Antipater, I shall never fall alive 
into his hands.' 

Poros^ July 'Hth. Sunday, On Mr. Stuy vesant's 
return to the brig, this morning, he brought with 
him, and introduced to us, George Constantine, the 
interesting and amiable young Greek, a native of 
Cyprus, whom Mr. Wolfe took out to England for 
education, when about 14 years of age. After a 
residence of 3 years at school in England, he re- 
turned to the Morea, and since that time to the 



poRos. 55 

present, has been employed here in different sta- 
tions and offices. 

A short time before the massacre at Scio, a 
Turkish Pacha, with a small armed force from the 
continent, landed at Cyprus, and summoned, by 
proclamation, all the principal men of the island, 
called Nobles, to meet him at a certain time and 
place appointed, to confer with him, on the subject 
of receiving and acknowledging the Turkish au- 
thority and government over the island, without 
bloodshed ; promising upon the honor of a Turk, 
safety and indemnity to the persons and property 
of all those who should comply with the invitation. 
The nobles, though fearful of the consequences of 
putting their persons into the power of the Pacha, 
upon no better security than the honor of a Turk, 
yet considering that a refusal might excite his re- 
sentment, and produce effects of a more serious 
nature, yielded their compliance. The number 
assembled was between thirty and forty, among 
whom was the father of George Constantine. The 
insidious Turk thus placed m his power, the most 
distinguished and opulent men of Cyprus. His 
guards, armed for the purpose, were secretly pre- 
pared and stationed around the building. The 
Pacha then declared the object of his visit ; de- 
manding, 1st, their unqualified submission to, and 
acknowledgment of, the sovereignty and govern- 
ment of the Sultan ; andj 2ndly, that they renounce 



56 JOURNAL OP A TOUR, &C. 

tHfeir Christian faith, become Mussulmans, and wear 
the turban. The Cypriots were stricken with 
consternation. The Pacha allowed them but a 
few minutes for consideration, informing them at 
the same time, they were his prisoners ; that his 
guards, with their drawn scimetars, were at the 
door, and would be let in, and ordered to put to 
death all those who should refuse comphance with 
the terms proposed. All except two, one of whom 
was George's father, had the firmness to reply, 
* we will die, true to our religion and our country.' 
These two reluctantly complied with the demands 
of the Pacha, and received of him the turban ; upon 
which the door was opened, the soldiers immedi- 
ately rushed in, and with their scimetars massacred 
every other man. The Pacha declared them re- 
bels and traitors, and the next day seized upon their 
property as confiscated to the Grand Seignior, and 
put to death most of their families, as well as oth- 
ers who had the boldness to oppose his sanguinary 
measures. The return of George's father to his 
house with a turban on his head, threw the family 
into a state of the greatest alarm. He related to 
them what had taken place. George replied to 
his father, * You have done wrong, sir, you have 
dishonored the Cross of Christ ; you ought to have 
mingled your blood with that of the rest of the 
nobles. You profess to be a Christian ; you haye 
taught me to believe in thXt faith and worship, and 



POROS. 57 

to hold in abhorrence Mahometanism, and all the 
followers of the false prophet.' In answer to this, 
his father said, * the love of my own life, and the 
lives of my numerous family, compelled me to yield, 
though involuntarily, to the cruel necessity of the 
case. I am yet, in heart, a Christian, and shall 
hve and die a Christian.' This, however, did not 
satisfy the mind of George ; and he then declared 
to his father that he would leave his house, and no 
longer live under his government, nor within the 
influence of his example. Within a day or two, 
he found an opportunity of leaving the island. Mr. 
Wolff became acquainted with him and his history ; 
and in the exercise of that Christian benevolence, 
by which that gentleman has rendered himself so 
conspicuous, sent him out to England for education. 

Mr. King, though much worn down by the pri- 
vations and fatigue necessarily incident to a long 
sea-voyage, performed divine service on board the 
brig. Capt. Page, having directed an awning made 
on the deck, we all, except Mr. Stuyvesant, who 
chose to spend the day on shore, really enjoyed a 
day of rest and devotion. Rarely, if ever, have I 
heard an extemporaneous discourse more appro- 
priate and impressive. 

After sun-set, went on shore, (Morea side,) op- 
posite the city, and bathed ; found the water con- 
siderably Salter than that in the Atlantic. This is 
the first time I have set my foot on land for sixty 
5 



58 JOURNAL OP A TOUR, &C. 

days, except the rock at the Parlatorio in Malta 
may be called land. Like Noah's dove, sent out 
from the ark, the first thing I did after stepping on 
shore, was to pluck an olive leaf from one of the 
thousands of olive trees standing here. Spent the 
evening in agreeable conversation on board the 
brig. 

^Sth. After breakfast, went on shore ; called at 
the sanita office ; on the brother of the President ; 
on the governor of the city; the French Charge des 
affaires, &lc. &c, by all of whom we were receiv- 
ed and welcomed with the utmost civility, and 
apparent cordiahty. The government officers 
agree to furnish us magazines to deposit the cargo ; 
also boats to assist in landing it. Agreed this day 
with George Constantine to assist us as an inter- 
preter, in keeping accounts, and m other services 
of the agency, for which, by his known integrity 
fidelity and intelligence, he is well qualified. 
Also agreed with a Greek citizen, for a part of his 
house (two upper rooms and part of a kitchen) for 
the accommodation of the agency while at Poros. 

29^A. Proceeded early this morning to the un- 
lading of the cargo, and bringing the passengers' 
stores to ' our own hired house.' 

The plague now prevailing in some parts of the 
Morea, as also in Hydra, Spetzia, and some other 
of the neighboring islands, will impede our progress 
in visiting the infected places, and making distri- 



poRos. 59 

bution among the sufferers. A fever is now pre- 
valent here, which carries off great numbers for 
so small a population. Dr. Russ, from America, 
a physician residing here, informs us, there are not 
less than 500 now sick. He is of opinion, that 
the principal cause of the present sickness is, 
that many of the poorer class, and particularly 
children, have, from necessity, eaten too freely of 
the early and premature fruits ; such as figs, cu- 
cumbers, melons, &c. But a foreigner would sup- 
pose, considering the crowded population of the 
place, the oppressive heat of the sun, the intolera- 
ble filth and inattention to cleanliness so prevalent 
here, no other cause need be assigned for a most 
sweeping mortality. Dr. Gosse, a physician from 
Switzerland, who has resided here in practice sev- 
eral years, says, that in 1819, there died in this city 
within two months, 850 persons. 

At 6, P. M., the arrival of the President Capo 
d'Istria was announced by the discharge of cannon 
on board the ship in which he came, and also on 
board of a Russian frigate, now lying in this harbor. 

July 30th, Extremely hot and dry ; thermome- 
ter ranged 94^ to 97^ At 5, P. M. Mr. K., Mr. 
S. and myself had a long and interesting interview 
with the President, at his palace ; introduced by 
his brother, Count V. A. Capo d'lstria. We were 
received with marks of the utmost politeness, and 
welcomed with appearances of the most cordial 



60 JOURNAL OF A TOUR, &C. 

gratitude. The conversation was in French. Mr. 
K. on our part, principal speaker. We made the 
President acquainted with the contents of the car- 
go, and of the charitable intentions of the donors 
in America ; requested his opinion and advice as 
to the best mode of ascertaining hi what parts of 
Greece were the greatest sufferings; the best 
means of conducting the distribution in these pla- 
ces ; of guarding against frauds and impositions of 
those whose claims on our charity should not be 
meritorious. The President, in reply, gave us the 
strongest assurances of the co-operation of the 
government, in carrying into effect the benevolent 
wishes of the donors, and of his aid in every thing 
necessary for that purpose ; assuring us that nothing 
should be done in relation to the cargo, but what 
should be approved by the agents, and pass under 
their immediate view ; but that, in justice, he could 
not withhold observing (without attaching blame, 
however, to any particular person,) that such had 
been the disposal of some part of the forn^e^r car- 
goes, that small benefit had resulted to the suffering 
inhabitants : expressing, at the same time, the deep 
sense of gratitude he felt for the liberal donations 
which had been sent out to them from our country. 
The result of the interview was, that the agents, af- 
ter completing the landing and storing of the cargo, 
proceed to travel through the Morea, and some of 
the neighboring islands, not infected by the plague, 



POROS. 61 

where the greatest distress of poverty exists, and 
form their own judgment, from actual view, what 
kinds and proportions of supphes would be proper 
for the different places.* 

* The very limited information I have yet received of Count 
Capo d'Istria enables me to give but an imperfect sketch of 
his biography. He is now about fifty years of age ; in his per- 
son well formed, of middling stature, and graceful in his car- 
riage and demeanor ; his countenance is placid and inviting, 
his eyes piercing and intelligent, yet pleasant and conciliating. 
I cannot better describe his face in any particular, than com- 
paring it with that of the late Alexander Hamilton. The simi- 
larity is striking. 

He was born at Corfu, one of the Ionian islands, of an an- 
cient and highly respectable Greek family, who have long borne 
the name of Capo d'Istrias, (head or chief of the Istrias.) This 
name, or rather title, arose, as is stated, from this circumstance. 
Between Corfu and Ithaca is a cluster of small islands, known 
by the name of ' the Istrias.' These, for many generations 
past, have been owned by this family, who have derived a large 
income from the product of these possessions. In the early 
part of his life, he spent several years at school, in Italy. When 
about 30 years of age, he went, by invitation of Alexander, to 
St. Petersburgh, in Russia, where, after being employed in 
many different and honorable offices, he was appointed by the 
emperor secretary of state for foreign affairs. In that office he 
continued, highly honored and esteemed by Alexander, for his 
talents and integrity, until chosen president of Greece in 1827. 
No man, I presume, within the limits of Greece or elsewhere, 
could be found, better qualified for tlie arduous duties which 
the acceptance of this appomtnient devolves upon him. In this 
great and good man are happily united the scholar, the philan- 
thropist, the statesman and patriot. 

5* 



62 JOURNAL OF A TOUR, &C. 

31^^. Early this morning, we received a polite 
note from the provisional governor of Poros, re- 
questing our acceptance of a present of fruit, sent 
us by order of the President. This seasonable and 
valuable token, consists of about a bushel and a half 
of grapes, the same quantity of figs, and 20 water- 
melons, all of an excellent quality ; also half a 
dozen Hve chickens. Returned by the porters, our 
note of thanks to the governor. 

Poros, Aug. 1st. Received a note from Count 
V. A. Capo d'Istria, giving us notice that his Ex- 
cellency the President, will wait on us at the ma- 
gazines between 11 and 12 o'clock, and take a 
view of the clothing provisions, &lc. Soon after 
12 he came, accompanied by Spiridion Tricoupis, 
secretary of state, his brother, and two or three 
officers with their side arms, viewed the different 
articles of the cargo, and expressed himself much 
pleased with them, observing, however, respecting 
some of them, particularly the calicoes and ging- 
hams, they were too good for the use to which they 
would probably be applied ; that coarser and 
cheaper cloths would be more serviceable for the 
poor and destitute. 

2d. Finished unlading and storing the cargo ; the 
quantity so great, that we found it necessary to 
engage four stores, all of which are full ; every 
box, cask, and package came out dry, and in the 
best order. 



poRos. 63 

3d. Sunday. Divine service by Rev. Mr. King, 
at our room ; the 1st mate, and part of the Her- 
ald's crevs^, with several native Greeks and others 
attended. Received from the President two 
sealed packages, one of which, addressed to the 
Greek Committee of the city of New York, to be 
forwarded, the other to their agents here, in dupli- 
cate, French and modern Greek, of the latter of 
which the following is a copy, translated, 

" No. 3421. GREEK ADMINISTRATION 

The President of Greece, 
To Samuel Woodruff, Esq. Rev. Jonas King, and 
John Stuyvesant, Esq. 

Gentlemen — 
I hasten to transmit to you herewith, the an- 
swer which I owe to the Committee established 
in the city of New York in favour of the Greeks. 
I reserve to myself to transmit to you also the ans- 
wer which I owe to the ladies of Troy, when I 
shall be able, upon your testimony, to inform them 
fully of the measure of good which their charity 
shall have operated, and of the sense of gratitude 
with which the suffering families who shall receive 
these charities shall be impressed. To justify the 
confidence with which your fellow citizens honor 
me, I will here recapitulate, in few words, the obser- 
vations which I have had the honor to make to you 
in conversation, relative to the manner in which 



64 JOURNAL OF A TOUR, &,C. 

you can best fulfil the Christian and benevolent 
intentions of those whom you represent. 

I propose to you, first of all, to inspect for your- 
selves those countries of Greece which have most 
sqflfered from war, from anarchy, and the prolong- 
ed presence of the enemy ; that you may be able 
to form a more perfect idea of the nature and ex- 
tent of the sufferings which overwhelm them. You 
will see in those places, the state of deprivation in 
which they are. You will pass, so to speak, in 
review, families who have no longer either house 
or refuge, or the means of procuring them ; and 
you will there judge of the use which you can 
make of the supplies of which you are the deposi- 
tories. This inspection being made, you will form 
such plan as you may please to pursue in the dis- 
tribution of the supphes. 

In that event,- as at present, I shall be ready to 
offer you any information which may be necessa- 
ry for you to accomplish this good work. The 
Peloponnesus, eastern and western Greece, with 
the exception of a few provinces, are com- 
pletely laid waste by the enemy. Where the 
principal and most flourishing cities and villages 
were, which have been the scenes of war, nothing 
now remains but deserts, ruin, and devastation. 

I propose to you, therefore, to divide the labor 
of inspecting these countries ; and the moment you 
shall be ready to go thither, I will make it my duty 



poRos. 65 

to furnish you with directions, escorts, and letters, 
by means of which you will find all the possible 
facilities, as well in your journey as in your philan- 
thropic observations of which it is the object. 

Receive, Gentlemen, the assurance of my very 
distinguished consideration. 
(Signed.) The President, 

J. A. Capo d'istrias. 
(Signed.) The Secretary of State, 

S. Tricoupis." 

Saw this day a group of Bedouin Arabs, lately 
taken prisoners on board a Turkish ship, by a 
Greek corvette. They are straight, well built, 
active, very lean, of good stature, and about the 
color of mulattoes, without their yellow hue and 
curled hair. Somewhat indisposed, head much 
affected by the excessive heat of the sun. 

5th. At 10 A. M. received a message from his 
Excellency, the President, inviting us to an inter- 
view at his house at 1 1 o'clock. Mr. K. and Mr. 
S. attended ; but by reason of my ill health, could 
not enjoy the opportunity. The brig, being to sail 
early to-morrow morning, made it necessary for 
me to labor beyond my strength, writing and copy- 
ing letters to the Greek Committee and others. 

6^//. At 2 o'clock this morning, the Herald 
weighed anchor, and took her departure from Po- 
ros, bound to Leghorn. Being confined to my 
room by illness, was obliged to deny myself the 



66 JOURNAL OP A TOUR, &C. 

pleasure of going on board, to take leave of the 
Captain, mates and crew, and wishing them a safe 
and speedy return to their native country. 

9th. Agreeably to previous arrangements, Mr. 
K., Mr. S. and myself set out early this morning on 
mules, attended by our Greek servant and two 
muleteers on foot, to view the situation and suffer- 
ings of the people at Damala, the ancient Troezene, 
about 8 miles N. W. of Poro^, on the Morea side, 
at the head of the bay ; and also the scattered 
population on the way between Poros and that 
place. Our little cattle, impelled by the grunts 
and buttons of the drivers, scratched along through 
the narrow and stony paths, with perfect safety to 
the riders, and brought us to Damala, at 9, A. M. 
Here we found about 100 families, (say 575 in- 
habitants,) thickly clustered together as the manner 
here is, in little, wretched huts, cottages and calivers^ 
built in various forms, of different sizes, some 
square, others round, like a stack of straw, com- 
posed of various materials, viz. stone, mud, brush, 
and a kind of heath grass, resembling fine straw ; 
all, with no other floor than the earth, and without 
window or chimney. An aperture of about a yard 
square is left on one side, at w^hich the tenants of 
these abodes of poverty crawl in and out. We 
entered several of them, and found the families in 
them wholly destitute of furniture, of comfortable 



DAMALA. 67 

bedding, clothing, food, and almost every thing 
else, excepting filth, sickness and misery. 

The present village stands at the foot of the 
bold mountains of Damala. Above it, at an eleva- 
tion of many hundred feet, is a monastery, erected 
on the east side of a deep gorge in the mountain. 
The site is commanding, the buildings elegant, and 
the whole scenery picturesque and romantic, with 
an outside appearance of wealth and comfort ; but 
the poor monks, impoverished and humiliated like 
their neighbors, are obliged to partake with them 
in their poverty and sufferings. 

The ruins of the ancient city of Trcezene, are 
yet visible, about one fourth of a mile W. of the 
present village. It appears, by history, that when 
Xerxes invaded Greece, the Athenians conveyed 
their aged and infirm, together with their wives, 
children and servants, to Troezene, for safety. 
This opulent city is said to have contained, at that 
period, a population of nearly half a million. For 
the support and education of their children at this 
retreat, the Athenians made the necessary provi- 
sion during the continuance of the Persians in 
Greece. 

Being much fatigued and exhausted by the ex- 
treme heat of the day, we repaired at 12 o'clock, 
to a beautiful lemon grove, a few rods from the 
village. In this shady retreat we spread down the 
blankets on which we rode, picked lemons from 



68 JOURNAL OF A TOUR, &C. 

the trees, and by the aid of a Httle sugar brought 
with us, and a small keg of cool water, procured 
here, made lemonade, by which, and the coolness 
of this natural bower, we soon found ourselves re- 
freshed. In this grove, and on the identical spot 
where we are now refreshing ourselves, the Greek 
National Assembly, in April 1827, held their ses- 
sion, at which Count J. A. Capo d'istrias, then in 
Russia at the court of the emperor, was chosen 
President of Greece. The Assembly consisted 
of 120 members, delegates from the different 
parts of the country and islands. On this memo- 
rable day, so interesting to the welfare of Greece, 
and in this place of retirement, a small table and a 
low stool were furnished for the accommodation 
of the Secretary, while all the members were seat- 
ed on the ground. 

Among the lemon trees of this delightful grove, 
I had the pleasure to see, for the first time,.several 
trees of the pomegranate, loaded with fruit, not 
yet fully ripe. This tree resembles, in a consid- 
erable degree, the quince tree of America, as well 
in its stature and branchy form, as in the size and 
shape of its fruit and leaf The fruit is of a plea- 
sant acid, full of large seeds, and covered with a 
tough rind. 

On our way, to and from Damala, we passed 
through a thin and scattered population, housed in 
wretched looking tenements, among which the 



DAMALA. 69 

small village of Catara, containing 20 or 30 houses, 
is most deserving notice. But the traveller is 
richly paid in making this short journey, by a view 
of the many large and beautiful vineyards on each 
side of the road, all v^ithout inclosure, and now 
bending with delicious grapes of two or three 
kinds, nearly ripe. Olive and cypress trees are 
also here and there interspersed, which add much 
to the rural appearance of these, otherwise, dreary 
abodes. 

10th. Sunday, Weak and much relaxed by the 
fatigue and heat of yesterday. Across the ferry, 
opposite Poros, on the Morea side, are now about 
one thousand persons, principally widows and fe- 
male orphans, who have fled hither from Napoli 
di Romania, Missolonghi and other parts of the 
Morea, to avoid the fury of the Turks, who have 
laid waste their once comfortable homes, and slain 
most of their fathers, husbands and brothers. — 
Some idea of their pitiable condition may be form- 
ed, when it is considered that they were obliged 
to make their flight precipitately, across the high 
and rough mountains of Damala, without means 
of subsistence, many of them carrying their infants 
in their arms ; and when arrived here, lodged in 
miserable cabins of straw and earth. Indeed, we 
found many whole families without any other- 
shelter, than a few fig and olive trees. There arc 
now among them about 375 sick, mo.s{t of wliorn 
6 



70 JOURNAL OF A TOUR, &C. 

are destitute of comfortable food and raiment, as 
well as medical assistance. The diseases most 
prevalent among them seize upon the children, 
and are occasioned by the necessity of feeding on 
premature melons, cucumbers, grapes and other 
vegetables. 

But we are informed, we are to see yet greater 
distress than this, in our tour through the western 
parts of the Morea, where the remorseless Turk 
has left nothing but ruins. Should this be the 
case, we shall stand in need of hearts ' made of 
sterner stuff' than ours. / 

llth. This being the day appointed to go to 
Egina, hesitate about attempting it on account of 
indisposition ; but being advised that the air of 
that island is much more salubrious than at Poros, 
conclude to go. At 1 P. M., Mr. K., Mr. S. 
and myself, with our Greek servant and baggage, 
went on board a Caique ; but the wind being light, 
did not arrive at Egina. (20 miles) till half past 6 
P. M. On landing, I found myself so exhausted 
and weak, that it was with much difficulty I walk- 
ed into the city, about forty rods. No house had 
been provided for our reception or accommoda- 
tion. The porters laid down our baggage in one 
of the streets, and I was glad of an opportunity 
for resting a few minutes by lying down upon it. 

After half an hour spent in searching for lodg- 
ings, a citizen who kept a locanda (tavern) learn- 



EGINA.* 71 

ing that we were Americans, kindly admitted us 
into one of his small upper rooms for the night — 
and after observing our necessity for more room, 
added another for our convenience. I immedi- 
ately directed the servant to spread my mattress 
upon the floor — for, like other Greek houses, there 
was neither table, chair, stool, or any other article 
of furniture in either of the rooms. I lay down, 
but not to sleep. My fever had increased on the 
passage from Poros, by fatigue and the extreme 
heat of the sun. I had taken no food, excepting 
a single cup of tea in the morning at Poros. My 
thirst became excessive, but I had nothing to 
drink, excepting indifferent water, of which I dare 
not use mucii. To add to my afflictions, I soon 
found myself surrounded with diflficulties, which to 
a person not wholly deprived of feelings^ are not 
of the most trifling nature. Swarms of vermin 
made their joint attack on all sides, and so perse- 
veringly followed it up, that all hope of sleep was 
soon abandoned. Thus wore away another rest- 
less night. 

Vltli, Egina. The President being now here, 
and hearing of our arrival, ordered a convenient 
house for our accommodation this morning ; but 
so much necessary delay was occasioned in mov- 
ing and arranging our provisions, trunks and other 
baggage, that it was 10 o'clock before we took 
possession of our lodgings. Received a visit from 



72 JOURNAL OF A TOUR, dz:C. 

Mr. Masson and Mr. Findley, two Scotch gentle- 
men who have resided several years in Greece ^ 
the former of whom is now one of the Judges of 
their court of Admiralty. These gentlemen being 
well acquainted w^ith the climate and the diseases 
incident to it at this season of the year, advise me 
to abstain from the use of all animal food, and of 
fruit, and to drink nothing but sage and bread tea 
— to keep out of the sun, and as quiet as possible, 
taking twice in 24 hours, a tea spoonful of sago, or 
arrow root — observing, there is no other safe 
course for me to pursue but starvation. This 
medical advice w^ould not be very highly relished 
by a man in health, and affords but little comfort 
to one in my condition. By advice of Mr. K., 
called in a Greek physician, said to be the most 
experienced and skilful in the island. On exam- 
ining my case, he is of opinion that my complaint 
is the effect of the heat of the sun — called here, 
the disease of the suriy — observing that most for- 
eigners are afflicted in like manner who arrive 
here at this season of the year — that a rigid absti- 
nence was absolutely necessary to my recovery. 

We had hopes that our new habitation, * empty 
and swept' though not 'garnished,' would afford 
us some relief from those troublesome bedfellows 
which made us so wakeful the last night ; but in 
this, we found ourselves sadly disappointed. 

Egina, the ancient (Enone Myrmedonia, is sit- 



EGINA. 73 

uated on the east side of the gulf of that name, N. 
Lat. 37^ 40 , E. Loti. 23° 25',— 24 miles S. of 
Athens, and 35 S. E. of Corinth. The land of 
this island is naturally dry and mountainous, with 
the exception of that part on which the city of 
Egina stands, and for a mile or two adjoining, 
which is remarkably pleasant and handsome. — 
The city stands at the S. W. corner of the island, 
where there is a good, convenient and secure har- 
bor. By the industry of the inhabitants, the soil 
is rendered productive in wheat, barley, olives, 
figs, grapes, almonds, oranges, lemons, pomegran- 
ates, cotton and silk. The ancient inhabitants ac- 
quired the appellation of Myrmedons (ants) from 
their subterranean habitations. Many of these 
are yet in being, though partly filled with loose 
dirt and rubbish. The famous legions of Achilles 
so much distinguished by their prowess in the 
Trojan war, and known by the name of Myrmi- 
dons, were natives of this island. It was anciently 
a separate and independent kingdom. About 
1100 years before the Christian era, ^acus reign- 
ed king of Egina. During his reign, and by his 
order, was built the temple of Jupiter Panhellen- 
ius, situated at the north eastern side of the isl- 
and, on a commanding eminence, from which is 
presented an animating view of the sea on the 
E. and S., of the Acropolis and some of the build- 
ings of Athens on the N., and on the W. a range 
6* 



74 JOURNAL OF A TOUR, <fec. 

of mountains. The inhabitants of Egina claim 
this to be the first temple built in Greece. Be 
that as it may, it certainly has a claim to very high 
antiquity ; and while many others of comparatively 
modern times, lie in total ruins, some parts of this 
are yet in a state of preservation, particularly 23 
pillars of the original number of 32, are yet stand- 
ing. The island is about 30 miles in circumfe- 
rence ; the present native population estimated 
at 15 to 20 thousands. We are informed, that 
about six weeks before our arrival here, the refu- 
gees who had fled hither from Athens, Megara, 
Livadia, Corinth, Argos, and other parts of Greece, 
had swollen the number to upwards of 40 thou- 
sands. At this time it is considerably less. I re- 
mark here, that it is extremely difficult to ascer- 
tain the population of any island, city or other 
portion of territory in this country. No census 
is ever taken ; and hence the estimates made by 
different persons so materially vary ; besides that, 
the population, for 7 or 8 years past, by reason of 
the war with the Turks, has been continually 
shifting and varying in one part and another. I 
was informed by the President that his estimate 
of the present population of Greece, proper, is 

1,500,000 
of which, in the Peloponnesus, 400,000 
in other parts of Greece N. ) 
of the gulf of Lepanto, and V 650,000, 
on the islands, ) 



EGINA. 75 

It is also the opinion of the President, expressed 
at one of our interviews with him, that the num- 
ber of those rendered poor and destitute by the 
ravages of the present war, amounts to 100,000. 
Egina is, at present, the seat of the Greek Govern- 
ment, and the residence of the President. 

I3th. Mr. K. and myself procured for each of 
us, a substitute for a bedstead, made in the form 
of saw-jacks, and standing on eight feet. To pre- 
vent the ascent of vermin, we set the feet in tin 
cups partly filled with water. Thus fortified and 
intrenched, we expected to enjoy some repose. 
But we soon found that these outworks served 
only to secure us from the attack of bed-bugs ; 
while a nimbler race, like mounted cavalry, leap- 
ed our fosses, scaled the walls, and charged us in 
our citadels. We had, however, gained much, and 
were well compensated for our trouble and expense. 

I4t/f, While Messrs. K. and S. were taking 
their morning walk to visit some of the suflTering 
families at this place, I seated myself at a front 
window of our chamber, which looks into the 
street, to observe the diflferent employments, cos- 
tume, and character of the numerous persons con- 
stantly passing and repassing. My attention was 
attracted to a house on the opposite side of the 
street. A broad arched portal formed the only 
opening into the street. About sun rise, an old, 
squalid looking man, with gray mustaches, salhed 
out and squatted himself down upon his own feet 



76 JOURNAL OP A TOUR, &LC. 

and legs in the Greek manner, near the entrance, 
resting his back against the wall, — took from his 
head a close, greasy, red cap,^ — drew over his 
shoulders a dirty, tattered, short shirt, and began 
his morning exercise of searching for and destroy- 
ing vermin. I thought by the lively motions of 
his thumbs and fingers, he met with abundant suc- 
cess — and appeared to take much satisfaction in 
retaliating upon those who had given him some 
small uneasiness during the last, warm night. His 
skin was of the complexion of a well smoked pork- 
ham. Next came out and seated herself in Hke 
manner, near the old man, (whom I took to be her 
father,) a young woman, 2S or 30 years of age ; 
and taking a comb from her bosom, began to 
comb her thick, long, raven locks of hair. Another 
young woman next appeared with her spindle in 
one hand, and her distaff of cotton on the other, 
and squatting herself down, began to spin. A few 
minutes after this, another young lady, who ap- 
peared to claim some distinction from the rest of 
the family, by the profusion of white muslin about 
her head, face, neck and shoulders, showed herself 
at the door, and after spending several minutes in 
adjusting her turban and putting other things to 
rights about her, retired into the house. I have 
described this family more in detail as affording a 
fair sample, mutatis mutandis, (varying in circum- 
stances) of most of the families I have seen at 



EGINA. 77 

Poros and Egina. Passing through the streets, it 
is a common thing to see persons of both sexes 
squatted down to together, mutually performing 
the kind office of searching each others heads, for 
a certain kind of httle crawhng creatures, which 
dehght to dwell on human heads and necks. The 
practice of sleeping here through the night on the 
flat roofs of their houses, wrapped in their capotes 
of coarse, shaggy cloth, contributes much to their 
uncleanliness. 

\5th. I regret exceedingly, that by reason of 
ill health, I am unable to accompany Messrs K. 
and S. in their visits to the distressed families in 
this vicinity ; and unless I should be favored with 
a speedy return of better health, must despair of 
the satisfaction I had promised myself in visiting 
Corinth, Argos, Sparta and other places in the 
Morea. Received a visit this afternoon from his 
Britanic majesty's Consul, resident here. He is 
by birth a German, speaks six different languages, 
and is a highly accomplished gentleman, antiqua- 
rian and scholar — has lived in Greece 25 years. 

17 th. Sunday, About 12 o'clock last night, a 
sensible alteration in the state of the air — a fresh 
breeze from N. N. W. came down the gulf of 
Esnna. Divine service at our room by Mr. K. — 
Mr. Masson and others attended, among whom 
were several Greeks. 

18^A. Cool and refreshing breeze from N. N. W, 



78 JOURNAL OP A TOtTR, &C. 

yet continues. I felt so much revived, and so 
anxious to be out again after five long days of con- 
finement, that I ventured to walk out along the 
shore to enjoy the fresh air — rambled oflf, (occa- 
sioBally stopping and resting,) to the ruins of the 
temple of Venus, about 150 rods— broke a small 
fragment from the only remaining column, and 
picked up from among the rubbish in the ruins, a 
piece of an earthen vessel of terra cotta, supposed 
to have been used by the votaries of her goddes- 
ship in performing the mysteries of their devotions. 
The column now standing is about 18 feet high, 
3 1-2 feet in diameter, placed upon a square plynth, 
supported by a pedestal, all of a kind of brown 
sand stone. Workmen are now employed in tak- 
ing up the large and elegant stones which formed 
the foundation of the outer walls of this ancient 
edifice. By pacing the length and breadth, not 
including the ground on which the column stands, 
I found the length to be 96 feet and the breadth 
66. The thickness of these walls on all sides is 
nine feet, all of hewn stone, a coarse kind of mar- 
ble, from five to eight feet in length, and eighteen 
inches thick. They have now taken up these 
walls to the depth of ten feet below the surface of 
the earth, and how much deeper they go, no one 
yet knows. These large and nicely hewn stone, 
divided and split up, furnish great quantities of ma- 
terials for building huts for the wretched and 



EGINA. 79 

houseless families encamped about these ruins. 
Had the honor of a visit this afternoon from seve- 
ral priests and dignitaries of the Church, with 
their long beards and characteristic habiliments ; 
among whom was the Archbishop of Western 
Greece, Joanne-Keos, famous for his bravery in 
the field of battle against the Turks, as well as for 
his talents, learning and piety in the Church. 
They all speak feelingly upon the deplorable state 
of their country ; and particularly in relation to 
their schools, and the great need in which they 
stand of the Bible and other religious books. — 
Such are their distresses and poverty, caused by 
the ravages of war, that they are unable, by their 
own means, to procure such books and keep up 
their schools. Several of them declared they 
were too poor to buy, and did not own a testa- 
ment. No christian can view the present condi- 
tion of the people of this country without emotion. 
By the pressure of the Turkish yoke, under which 
they have groaned for nearly four centuries, 
though literally tolerated in their religion, they 
have been compelled to make sacrifices, which 
none but christians ever did, or could endure. It 
has been the policy, and for the interest of the Ot- 
tomans to tolerate the Greeks, 1st. Because the 
capitation tax and many other pecuniary exact- 
ions, extorted from them, and from which the 
Mahometans are exempted, serve to replenish the 



80 JOURNAL OF A TOUR, &C. 

treasury; and 2d. because their industry, and 
their orderly and moral conduct, render them the 
best subjects of the Sultan. It is to be lamented, 
that by the influence of the Romish Church, 
errors have crept in, and by their formulas and 
ceremonies, corrupted, in some degree, the wor- 
ship of the Greek Church. Yet the true seed of 
the word, sown here by Paul and Barnabas, has 
never been extinct ; and waits only for culture, to 
hring forth fruit unto holiness, Greece now pre- 
sents a more interesting field for missionary labor, 
than any other portion of the globe. This labor 
consists, not in breaking up new ground, but in 
cultivating the old ; — not in making an alphabet 
and a written language for the people, but, in car- 
rying back to them, of whom we received it, the 
gospel, in their own language. 

Oppressed, degraded, and impoverished as they 
now are, it has become the duty of the christian 
world, not only to commiserate their suflTerings, 
but lend them immediate aid. Duty! It is not 
only a duty, but a debt, which we, as w^ell as all 
civilized Europe, owe to Greece — to that people 
whose ancesters held a rank more elevated than 
that of any other nation m ancient or modern 
times. Athens, their capital city, was deservedly 
called the seat of the muses, the great store-house 
of literature. Here flourished all that was great 
and splendid in science and the fine arts. Here 



EGINA. 81 

were cradled the bravest heroes and patriots, the 
ablest statesmen, orators, philosophers, and artists, 
the world ever knew. And it was by the fame of 
her literature no less than by her prowess in the 
field, that Greece conquered other nations. Dur- 
ing more than a century after she became a colony 
under the Roman empire, she remained the great 
school of other nations, even of Rome itself, her 
conqueror. Cicero, in one of his letters to Quinc- 
tius, then governor at Athens, says, * remember, 
Quinctius, you govern Greeks, a people who have 
enlightened, and humanized the world, and to 
whom Rome herself is indebted for all the know- 
ledge she possesses.' While a province of the 
Roman empire, Greece enjoyed not those rights 
and privileges, of which she might boast in the 
days of her prosperity, and while an independent 
republic ; but the last 370 years, under the cruel 
bondage of the Turks, have completed the climax 
of her sufferings and degradation. The very co- 
lumns of their formerly splendid palaces and tem- 
ples, now in ruins, witness the departed glory of 
a people, once the admiration of the world. 
Nearly eight years has Greece been nobly strug- 
gling for life and liberty with her savage masters. 
The desolations of war and i-apine are imprinted 
upon the fairest portions of that once free and 
happy country. Her sons have fallen in the field 
of battle — many of her fair daughters have been 
7 



82 JOURNAL OF A TOUR, &C. 

violated and slain—whole cities given up to indis- 
criminate massacre — thousands of her infants dash- 
ed against the stones in the streets and v^alls of 
their houses, or sold into slavery like beasts in the 
market— many thousands of widows and orphans, 
houseless, pennyless and friendless, are now rais- 
ing their eyes and their hands, supplicating the 
charity of christian benevolence. 

If the voice of the blood of Abel crying to the 
Lord from the ground for a single murder, was 
heard in heaven, how great must be the ascending 
cry from the blood of more than seventy-five 
thousand souls, principally inoffensive women and 
children, wantonly murdered in Greece by the 
merciless Turks ! And what manifestations even 
of sympathy and feeling have been shewn, during 
these massacres, by the Christian powers of Eu- 
rope, united by their holy alliance ? None. The 
paltry considerations of profit arising from their 
trade in the Levant seas, and from their hostility 
to the advancement of intelligence and national 
liberty, have, as it seems, quieted their conscien- 
ces, and they, not imitating the good Samaritan, 
* have passed by on the other side.' Be it remem- 
bered, however, that many individuals among 
these different governments have honorably dis- 
tinguished themselves by contributing generously 
of their o\yn private means, to the relief of the 
unexampled sufferings of the struggling Greeks. 



EGINA. 83 

But to return. We expected to have set out 
this day on our visit to Corinth, Argos and other 
parts of the Morea, to ascertain the number and 
condition of the destitute in those places ; but un- 
derstanding they are now^ under quarantine, have 
concluded to defer our journey, and shall probably 
go next to Napoli. 

I9th, An amiable Greek lad by the name of 
Fortius, educated at New Haven, and now resi- 
ding here in the family and service of the Presi- 
dent, having frequently called upon us at our room, 
invited me to walk with him this afternoon, and 
see a small vineyard about a mile and a half out 
of the city. I felt such a strong inclination to 
gratify my curiosity by viewing an Oriental vine- 
yard, that, though very weak, I set out ; and by 
walking and resting alternately, reached the spot. 
I felt more than paid for my pains. The garden, 
as it is here called, is without inclosure, and con- 
tains about half an acre of ground, of a dark, gra- 
velly loam. The grapes are of two kinds, white 
and purple, both of excellent quality — the clusters 
w^eighing from three to seven pounds. The vines 
are planted in rows, 3 1-2 feet distant from each 
v>ther. Most or all the vines of the purple kind 
are suffered to grow about five feet high, and rest 
upon small poles supported by crotches get in the 
ground. The vines of the other kind have no ar- 
tificial helps to support them, and many of the 



84 JOURNAL OF A TOUR, &C. 

heavy clusters rest their heads upon the ground. 
In the middle of the vineyard is a well of fine 
water. It is 24 feet deep, walled up with brick ; 
the descent to the water is 12 by 8 feet in width, 
with stone steps from the top to the water, which, 
for irrigating the garden, is raised by two wheels^ 
turned by a mule or a jack. On the same ground 
are pomegranates, figs, apricots, peaches, apples, 
olives, cotton, and many other kinds of plants and 
fruit trees ; all of which, except the peaches and 
apples, appeared luxuriant and flourishing. I had 
also in this walk an opportunity of seeing a great 
number of the ancient tombs, cut in the rock, a 
coarse, porous kind of lime stone, many of which 
w^ere evidently designed for whole families ; others 
for single bodies. A great part of them now so 
far filled up with earth and rubbish, that they are 
but from two to four feet deep. The Greeks, to 
prevent a violation of these tombs of their ances- 
tors, have planted olive and fig trees in them, that 
cattle and other animals may avoid stepping into 
them. Returned to our lodgings at sunset, much 
fatigued, bringing with us two clusters of grapes, 
each of which I should consider, if at home, ample 
compensation for a hard day's work. Fortius 
speaks highly of our country, particularly of New 
Haven, and of the civilities and kindness he re- 
ceived there from Judge Baldwin and many others* 
He informs me, that by direction of the Presi-* 



poRos. 85 

dent, he is engaged to take the charge of a school 
at the monastery in Poros, to which island he ex- 
pects to go within a hw days. 

20th. At 7 this morning, with Messrs K. and S. 
engaged a caique, and made preparation to sail to 
Poros ; had a fair wind, pleasant passage, and ar- 
rived there at 12. Busily employed, the remain- 
der of the day, in making arrangements for distri- 
bution. 

21^^. Poros, Having settled upon a mode for 
the distribution of part of the cargo hiere, at Me- 
thana, and in that part of the Morea opposite to 
Poros, Mr. K. and myself, accompanied by our 
Greek servant Antonio, engaged a caique for our 
return to Egina, leaving Mr. S. to proceed in the 
distribution. But the wind being directly ahead 
the whole day, prevented our attempting it. 

22<f . Poroff, Wind still ahead ; strong breeze ; 
every thing ready, and are impatient for our de- 
parture for Egina. At 6, A. M. the master of the 
caique called, and informed us, that though the ^ 
wind W'as ahead, he thought he could beat up to 
Egina by sun-set. Embarked with our baggage 
at 7, and after 12 hours confinement in a little 
caique, with continual beating, arrived at Egina, 
fatigued and greatly debilitated, having taken no 
other refresliment on tlie passage, than a small 
piece of ship-bread and a handful of grapes. In 
addition to our other troubles, we found, on our 
7* 



86 JOURNAL OF A TOUR, &LC. 

arrival, the custom-house office shut ; no pratique 
till to-morrow morning could be obtained to land 
either ourselves, servant or baggage. The officer, 
how^ever, at our request, obligingly sent a man on 
shore to make the governor acquainted vs^ith our 
situation, and request his special permission for 
Mr. K. and myself, with our servant, to land and 
sleep on shore. Our request was readily granted, 
and in half an hour, the governor's permit came, 
with a boat to carry us on shore. At 10, P. M. 
got into our lodgings, weak and trembling, with 
fatigue and fasting. 

In connexion with this incident, it ought to be 
noticed, that the President, soon after the com- 
mencement of his administration, took two mea- 
sures of a bold and decisive character : one of 
which was to suppress piracy, then so shamefully 
prevalent among the Greek islands. For this pur- 
p(xse he established custom-house offices at every 
port, on the main, as well as islands, attended by 
an armed guard ; and made it the indispensable 
duty of the master of every vessel and boat, of 
whatever character or size, excepting armed ves- 
sels in the government service, whenever they sail- 
ed from any port or place, to enter on oath, at the 
custom house, his name, together with the names 
of all the crew and passengers — the name, descrip- 
tion and tonnage of his vessel or boat, her business 
and destination. Authenticated duplicates of these 



poRos. 87 

entries were made necessary for the landing of 
every such vessel or boat, at any other port or 
place. And if any such vessel or boat should be 
found at sea by any government vessel, without 
such papers, the master and crew should be seized 
upon, adjudged pirates, and punished accordingly. 
The vessel to be confiscated to the state. 

The other was, disarming all such citizens as 
were not engaged in the service of the government, 
and regularly enrolled by some proper officer. 

Situated as the Greeks then were, several of 
the President's council and many among the warm- 
est friends of liberty, entertained fears in attempt- 
ing to carry these measures into effect. Their 
situation was then, in many respects, similar to 
that of the United States in 1776 and '7. But, 
happily for Greece, the fears of her friends, as w^ell 
as the hopes of her enemies were alike disappoint- 
ed. Both measures went into successful operation, 
without any formidable opposition. 

These acts, with their attendant success, afford 
high evidence of the wisdom, energy, and decision 
of this able statesman and devoted patriot. 

Among the notices of this day, I have to record 
an occurrence of a very distressing nature, which 
took place last night at Poros. Six or eight mih- 
tary officers, part English and part Americans,who 
had been in the Greek service under Lord C'och- 
rane, but were now paid off', and out of employ- 



88 JOURNAL OF A TOUR, &LC, 

ment, took lodgings in different houses in the city. 
Their practice was to dine together three times a 
week. They all drank brandy to excess, and par- 
ticularly at their dinner parties ; continuing their 
debauch till 12 o'clock at night, with such noise 
and tumult as greatly annoyed the peaceful citizens. 
At one of their nocturnal revels, Capt. **^^, an 
Englishman, on attempting to return to his quar- 
ters about midnight, and being on the tone of high 
pressure^ mistook the house of a quiet Greek for 
his own lodgings. A loud rap at the door awaken- 
ed and alarmed the Greek, who, with his family, 
slept in an upper room of the house. He immedi- 
ately sprang out of bed, came down, and opened 
the door. The captain advanced into the entrance, 
and in a rage, began to abuse the Greek for not 
opening the door with greater despatch ; supposing, 
as he alleges, that he was scolding his servant, at 
his own room. The Greek, with some difficulty 
gave the captain to understand that he had mista- 
ken the house ; and managed, without violence, 
to get him out of the house, and shut the door. 
At this, the captain, ' sudden and quick in quarrel,' 
thought himself insulted, drew his sword, wheeled 
about, and forced in the door. The Greek was yet 
m the entrance, unarmed and defenceless : the 
captain sprang upon him, and stabbed him through 
the body. The noise at the door had by this time 
alarmed and collected several of the nearest neigh- 



EGINA. 89 

bors, who secured the captain, and carried the 
dying man to his bed. The physician who was 
called in, and from whom I received an account 
of the transaction this morning, found the wound 
to be mortal. The Greek died about sunrise. 

23c?. Egina. We find our condition here much 
more tolerable than at Poros, though my health yet 
continues poor and feeble, with little if any im- 
provement. Walked out at evening, to take a 
view of some families lodged in caves and dens of 
the rock. 

24th» Sunday, In the afternoon, w^alked out 
again among the poor and destitute families near 
our lodgings. Before the door of one of the cale- 
vies, (huts,) my attention was attracted by a sight 
truly distressing. Two infant children, apparently 
twins, about nine or ten months old, were lying 
feet to feet, in a hollow log, which served them for 
a cradle ; a young woman, whom I took to be their 
mother, sitting by them on the ground, in mournful 
silence. I went up to them, found them extremely 
emaciated, and the paleness of death upon their 
little, withered countenances. After viewing them 
a moment, I thought one of them dead, but taking 
its hand in mine, discovered some faint remains of 
life. Both were evidently dying, and without doubt, 
in less than an hour, were released from their mor- 
tal sufferings. Happy — thought I, happy children ! 



90 JOURNAL OF A TOUR, &C. 

Soon after my arrival at Poros, the letters of 
sympathy and condolence from the ladies of Hart- 
ford, Troy, and other places, addressed to the la- 
dies in Greece, accompanied by our credentials, 
were delivered to the President, who immediately 
directed them to be translated into modern Greek, 
and published in a paper edited at Egina. The 
eagerness and interest with which these letters are 
read by both sexes, and indeed by all classes of 
the Greek people, is truly gratifying to the feelings 
of every friend to Greece, and honorable to the 
American character. Groups of men in the mar- 
ket places, and assemblages of women in every 
street, are daily seen perusing these communica- 
tions, and expressing their thankfulness and grati- 
tude by every demonstration in the power of lan- 
guage and gesture. 

In conversation at various times, with some of 
the most intelligent of the men, they often expres- 
sed themselves to this effect : — * The charities we 
receive from you, make impressions on our minds 
of a different nature from those made, when we 
receive aid from any other nation. You live,' say 
they, ' on the other side of the world ; in a country 
wholly disconnected from ours ; a country, whose 
very existence, until within a few years past, was 
utterly unknown to most of us. We know, there- 
forej all you bestow upon us are the fruits of genu- 



EGINA. 91 

ine charity, and Christian benevolence. As such, 
we receive them. 

* Individuals of Russia, England, France, Italy, 
and Switzerland have done much for us, in our 
impoverished and needy condition. They have 
sent fleets into our seas, and other armed force 
into our country ; they fought the battle of Nava- 
rino, which served greatly to inspirit our warriors, 
and give new life to our desponding hearts ; but 
situated as these nations and we are, Ave cannot 
dismiss from our minds some fears of their ulterior 
views. Questions of this kind are suggested among 
us : are these powers impelled by a real, disinter- 
ested regard for the rights, liberty and indepen- 
dence of the Greeks, in making such sacrilSces of 
blood and treasure ? Is it consistent with the 
principles and policy of the holy alliance, should 
our present struggle terminate in our favor, to per- 
mit us to enjoy a republican government, surround- 
ed as we are by monarchies ? We cannot, how- 
ever, withhold our gratitude for the favors received 
from them, and hope our apprehensions may not 
be realized/ 

At one of our interviews with the President, he 
took occasion to observe, while speaking of the 
United States, that he had studied our federal con- 
stitution, and admired the wisdom of it ; that the 
principles and leading features of it, were such, as 
above all others, would be the desire of himself 



92 JOURNAL OF A TOUR, &C. 

and of the people of Greece to establish. But, 
added he, our situation is critical ; our people are 
yet unaccustomed to a free government. Time 
and future events will decide ; and to them we 
must leave it. 

'Hdth. Have the pleasure to learn that a French 
brig arrived here yesterday, with official despatches 
to the President, containing advices, that six thou- 
sand French troops have arrived in the Morea ; 
that six thousand more are expected there within 
a few days. This welcome intelligence has greatly 
revived the spirits of the Greeks, and affords a fair 
prospect that Ibrahim Pacha will be soon obliged 
to withdraw his forces from all those places in the 
Morea which he now holds. 

2(ith. Cool, fresh air, but no material improve- 
ment in the state of my health. Indeed, I have 
now come to a conclusion, that after so long and 
wasting an illness of 24 days, and of the kind un- 
der which I am laboring, no hopes of recovery can 
be indulged, but by leaving this country and cli- 
mate as soon as may be. This is the unanimous 
opinion of Mr. K., Mr. S., my physician, and all 
our friends here. It is obvious, I shall not be able - 
to render any further service in the remaining du- 
ties of the agency, in respect to the actual distribu- 
tion of the Herald's cargo. 

But as no opportunity for a passage directly to 
America can be expected, either from Egina oi^ 



EGINA. 



93 



Poros, it will be necessary for me to go to Syra, 
and from thence, in a neutral vessel, to Smyrna ; 
at which latter place, it is highly probable a passage 
may shortly be procured in an American vessel, 
bound either to Boston or New York, or in an 
English vessel, bound to London. 

29th- Bought of a Greek lad at my room, a brace 
of mountain partridges, being advised by the phy- 
sician that a little of the broth will do me no injury. 
This beautiful bird is found on all the mountains of 
Greece and Palestine. It is about two thirds the 
size of the partridge of New England ; the body 
less plump and round ; legs, beak and eyes red : 
the plumage on the back a light dusty brown, simi- 
lar to that of our mourning dove ; on the breast 
and under the wings, cross- marked with black 
bars like ours, in which particular consists the 
greatest resemblance ; flesh more juicy and delicate. 

Feehng a little more strength this afternoon, 
walked out with Mr. K. to visit some of the suffer- 
ing families, lodged principally in caves, in the en- 
virons of the city. Went into one in which we 
found six famihes living together, without any par- 
tition, and consisting, in the whole, of betwt^en 30 
and 40 persons. This cave is 40 feet in diameter, 
7 feet high in the central and highest part, with an 
aperture 15 feet wide and 3^ high ; no bed, no 
furniture of any kind. The men belonging to these 
families are now employed by the President, car- 
8 



94 JOURNAL or A TOUR, &C, 

ryiog stone, making mortar, attending masons, and 
other work about the orphan's retreat. The wo- 
men, and such children as can labor, spin and 
weave a little cotton, in their burrows ; two small 
looms, with pieces of cloth in them, are in this cave. 
This may serve for a description of many other of 
these subterranean abodes, with the exception of 
one of larger dimensions, containing twelve fami- 
lies, and others, w hich are too small to lodge more 
than one or two families. Among other of these 
wretched fellow creatures, I cannot omit mention- 
ing one woman, now 110 years old, who exhibits 
one of the most interesting, and yet melancholy 
evidences of human misery. The waste of time 
against which she has so long struggled, has ren- 
dered her blind, deaf and toothless ; yet she retains 
much animal vigor, and speaks with a loud, shrill 
voice. Her lungs and powers of speech (a blessing 
with which the sex are peculiarly favored) yet re- 
main but little impaired. She is a refugee from 
Livadia, the native city of Plutarch. In the course 
of this ramble, we passed over several acres of 
ancient tombs, cut in the rock, of different forms, 
length and wjdth. The ground is nearly level. 
The rock, in these places, forms a superstratum! 
from three to four feet in thickness ; beneath this,' 
is a loose, coarse gravel, easily excavated ; so that 
rooms of any dimensions may be made with little 



BGINA. 95 

labor. In these mansions, immense numbers of 
the ancient dead were deposited. 

No man, capable of reflection, can pass over 
these receptacles of mortal remains, with indifier- 
ence. Take, for a datum, that this city has been 
inhabited but 3,000 years ; that the average popu- 
lation has been 10,000, though in the most flourish- 
ing times of the Greek empire, it was probably 
twice that amount ; admit that within this period 
a generation has passed off* every thirty years, (the 
usual calculation,) and the number sepulchred here 
amounts to one million ! equal to two thirds the 
present estimated population of all Greece. 

On our return, stopped and took a second view 
of the orphan retreat, or asylum. This noble edi- 
fice is placed on an airy and commanding ground, 
near the centre of the city. It is an oblong square, 
350 feet in length, and 220 in breadth, with a large 
square court in the centre, in the modern style of 
building colleges in France ; roofed with tiles, and 
is calculated to cost 450,000 piastres, or $30,000, 
and, when completed, to accommodate six hundred 
children, to be fed, clothed and educated at the 
expense of the government. The building is erect- 
ed by aid of a Russian loan at 5 per cent, and is 
planned and superintended by a Russian architect. 
Hundreds of poor women, w ith many men, and 
such poor children as have sufficient strength to 
carry a stone as large as a loaf of bread, are daily 



96 JOURNAL OF A TOUR, &C. 

employed by the President, in carrying timber? 
stone, ti]es, lime, &c., for this laudable work. No 
vehicles on wheels, or any kind of team, are known 
or used here. I have seen thirty women carrying 
QU their shoulders, one stick of timber, from the 
water side, (half a mile,) up to the place of the 
building. For this labor, the men receive two 
loaves of coarse, brown bread, the women one, 
and the children, half a loaf, each, per day. This 
pittance appears to be their only support. 

Most of the stone used about the doors and win- 
dows are taken from the ruins of the temple of 
Venus, and other ancient temples, tombs and di- 
lapidated buildings in the vicinity. Thus the wealth, 
pride, and idolatry of the ancient inhabitants, are 
made to contribute to the necessities and comfort 
of their degraded and impoverished posterity ; and 
it is pleasant to reflect, that those very stones, 
which for many ages constituted the materials of 
temples erected and dedicated to the honor and 
worship of heathen gods and goddesses,, are now 
employed in constructing a seminary, where are 
to be taught the knowledge and worship of the 
true God. 

30^^. Sitting at my window, and viewing the 
many and busy passengers through the street, I 
have often been amused to see the women spinning 
cotton in their promenades ; not that kind of street 
yarn^ of which so much is spun, but none woven, 



EGINA. 97 

in our country — but that which serves to clothe 
themselves and their families. There is now be- . 
fore my window a group of 12 or 15 of these in- 
dustrious housewives, walking leisurely along in 
friendly chit-chat, and continuing their work with- 
out any interruption to their walk. Each has a 
distaff of cotton wound round the left hand, and in 
the right, a wooden spindle, about eight inches in 
length, with a small hooked notch at the pointed 
end. To this a few fibres of the cotton are attach- 
ed ; the spindle is then dropped from the hand, 
with a twirl of the thumb and fore-finger ; the 
weight and rotary motion of the spindle, assisted 
by the right hand, in drawing and evening the 
thread, spins it down to the length of a yard ; then 
raising the left hand, and bringing up the spindle 
to the right, it receives another twirl, by which the 
thread is sufliiciently twisted. It is then woundup 
on the spindle, aad another tin ead begun. I have 
yet seen no spinning wheels here, and I believe 
none are used in any part of Greece. 

We have, in our earlier days, read and heard 
much about the beauty of the Grecian women ; 
that so perfect was their form, that the statuary 
and the painter took them as models for imitation. 
Among other refugees, there are now in this city 
about fifty Ipsariot ladies, dressed in the full cos- 
tume of that island. It is said here, that Ipsara 
produces the most beautiful women in Greece ; I 
8* 



98 JOURNAL OF A TOUR, &C. 

consider, therefore, that these ladies are a fair spe- 
cimen of Grecian beauty. I had frequent oppor- 
tunities of seeing them, while walking in different 
parts of the city; but at my time of Hfe, discovered 
nothing in their charms which entitles them to any 
great distinction above the fair of our own country. 
Perhaps if I were 40 or 50 years younger, I might 
experience a more lively sense of their attractions, 
and judge more correctly of their merit. The 
Greek women, I find, are not unacquainted with 
the estimation in which they stand for beauty 
among other nations, and prove the correctness of 
the great English poet, strange as it may be : — 

" If ladies are but young and handsome, 
They have the gift to know it." 

Yours, &e- 



LETTER III. 

Smyrna, Oct. 4th, 1828. 
Dear Sir — 
August 31. I wrote to Mr. Stuyvesant, now at 
Poros, informing him of the continuance of the ill 
state of my health, and of my intention to leave 
Greece, as soon as opportunity shall offer, wishing 
to see him at Egina, before my departure. 



EGINA. 99 

September 1st. Egina. Last night, an English 
Hne-of-battle-ship, of 74 guns, the Revenge, Capt. 
Thompson, bound to Candia, came into the gulf 
and anchored a little below the city, about a mile 
distant. The Greeks here manifest considerable 
anxiety respecting the object of her destination. 
Mr. King, with the approbation of one of the po- 
lice officers of the city, employed 24 of Ibrahim's 
men, now prisoners here, to clean out a filthy drain, 
running by our door, and which had become very 
offensive. Part of these men are Arabs of the 
desert, part native Egyptians, and the remainder' 
from other parts of Africa ; each bearing charac- 
teristic marks of their respective countries. We 
rewarded their labor with a few pieces of broken 
ship-bread, which they received with the utmost 
gratitude and thankfulness. It is indeed astonish- 
ing to an American, to see on how small a quantity 
of food these people, as well as the Greeks, live. 
Mr. K., understanding the Arabic, was able to 
converse with them, which pleased them greatly. 

Sept. 2rf. Capt. Thompson weighed anchor 
this morning, and made sail for Candia. 

Passing through one of the market squares this 
morning, where many persons were collected for 
buying and selHng melons, grapes and otiier fruit, 
my attention was arrested by a loud and angry 
quarrel between two men about the change for a 
water-melon, which one had purchased of the 



lOb JOURNAL OF A TOUR, &C. 

Other. The parties were in a boiling passion, and 
displayed the most violent gesticulations of the 
pugnacious character. I expected to see hard 
knocks and bloody noses. An Englishman or an 
American, and certainly, an Irishman, before he 
had strained his lungs with half this vociferation, 
would have used his fists ; but, it seems they man- 
age these things better in Gree.ce ; for in the 
midst of all this sparring, one of the parties nimbly 
stept up, and placing both his hands before the 
face of the other, and as near it as possible with- 
out coming in contact with his nose, stood perfect- 
ly still for a few seconds, without a word spoken 
by either — then dropping his hands down to their 
natural position, each one turned away, and the 
dispute was ended. Unable to comprehend what 
charm or magic there could be in this last ma- 
noeuvre, I requested a Greek with whom I was 
walking, to explain it. He replied, that this was 
as much as to say, ' you are a mean, contemptible 
wretch, unworthy to show your face among men, 
and wholly beneath my notice.' 

P. M. Mr. Stuyvesant returned from Poros, ^ 
and informed us of the progress he had made in 
the distribution at that island and its vicinity. Met 
with several perplexing disappointments respecting 
a caique for my passage to Syra. 

3d. Amidst all my embarrassments in obtaining 
a passage to Syra, concluded to call on the city- 



EGINA. ' 101 

governor for direction and assistance. He readily- 
made provision for me by directing a Golette (small 
Greek schooner) to sail to-morrow, partly on 
business of the government, and partly for my 
accommodation and that of several other passen- 
gers. Mr. King has obligingly furnished me with 
* letters of introduction to J. Van Lellep, Esq. 
Dutch consul general at Smyrna, who performs 
also the duties of an American consul, and stands 
in high estimation for his urbanity and kind atten- 
tions tQ American citizens; another to Joseph 
Langdon, Esq. a merchant, formerly of Boston. 
By these letters I expect all the aid I shall need at 
Smyrna, both in respect to my obtaining a passage 
from thence to the U. S. and also in procuring 
lodgings, &c. Wishing further and more particu- 
lar information respecting the Orphan's Retreat, I 
sent to the Russian architect, a request to be fur- 
nished with a short statement of the length, breadth, 
height, number of rooms, their uses, &c. In return, 
he politely sent me a plan of the whole, noting 
down, in French, every particular of which I wished 
information. The edifice is now so far advanced 
that the workmen have began to lay the roof ; and 
it is expected the whole will be finished by the 
1st of November next. 

\ih. Early this morning, packed up my baggage, 

ettled my little family accounts, and prepared to 

go on board the golette, lying at the mole ; waited 



102 JOURNAL OF A TOUR, &€. 

with some impatience 'till 12 o'clock, when infor- 
mation was received that the vessel would not sail 
'till to-morrow morning, by reason of some real or 
pretended difficulty in obtaining the necessary 
passports at the health office. This disappoint- 
ment, like many others I have experienced, will, 
I trust, operate ultimately, to my advantage. Mr. 
Stuyvesant, with George Constantine, returned in 
a caique to Poros, to proceed in the remaining dis- 
tribution at and near that island. 

bth. Informed the golette will sail at 8 this 
morning ; put up my baggage again. Received 
a visit from the governor of Sparta, Petros Mav- 
romichoelis, famous in modern Greek history for 
his talents, wealth and influence — his bravery in 
the field of battle — the wisdom of his counsel in 
the cabinet, as w^ell as for his own and his family's 
personal beauty.^ This is the first Spartan with 
whom I had made any acquaintance since my ar- 
rival in Greece. 

As a token of mutual remembrance between 
the Spartan Governor and myself, an exchange of 
walking staves was proposed by Mr. K. and read- 

* This distinguished character, at the commencement of the 
revolution, by appointment of the Sultan, held the office of Bey 
of Maina, (Sparta.) But on the breaking out of hostilities, 
relinquished his office under the Turkish government, and took 
an active part with his countrymen. At their first Congress at 
Epidaurus, in 1822, he was chosen President for one year. In 
1B^3, the same ofSce was again conferred upon him. 



EOIN\. 103 

ily acceded to by the parties. The one I received 
in exchange, grew at Sparta, and is a species of 
the reed sicuti, from which the ancient Greeks 
extracted that quick and deadly poison, with 
which Demosthenes and many others found their 
deaths, either voluntarily or by sentence of law^ 
The Governor's particular business lay with Mr. 
K. He represented, with much interest and feel- 
ing, the deplorable condition of his people in their 
present impoverished state, and, in a special man- 
ner, the situation of their children and schools — 
earnestly soliciting Mr. K. to go to Sparta as soon 
as his other duties would admit of it ; to carry 
with him as many Testaments, tracts, and other 
books suitable for schools, as he could procure, 
and join his own personal services in assisting to 
put the schools upon a better footing. After wait- 
ing 'till 2 P. M. procured a boat, and went with 
my baggage on board the golette, scarcely able in 
my weak and sickly state to endure the rays of a 
most powerful sun. I soon found I had ^jumped 
out of the frying pan into the fire.' A little, dirty 
Greek sloop, with 52 people on board, among 
whom were half a dozen women with their squall- 
ing infants, the greater part of whom, both men 
and women, squalid and, (plain English) lousy ; 
myself so weak I could hardly walk — without a 
servant to attend me, rendered my condition far 
from enviable. In addition to my other sufferings, 



104 JOURNAL OF A TOUR, i&C. 

a dead calm chained us down through the night. 
At dusk, the Greeks began to spread down their 
capotes and pieces of coarse hair cloth upon the 
deck, to pig in, for the night, after eating a piece 
of hard brown bread, with a cluster of grapes and 
a good swig of red wine to wash it down ; and 
smoking their long pipes, during which they kept 
up their clack similar to a flock of black birds on 
a piece of oat stubble. I was glad when they fell 
asleep ; and then proceeded to take my supper, 
which occupied but little time, as it consisted only 
of a boiled egg which I carried in my jacket 
pocket, and a draught of warm, brackish water; 
spread my mattress upon the only spot not occu- 
pied on the deck ; lay down in the open air, and, 
by fatigue, soon fell asleep, but enjoyed no other 
than what are called cat naps. 

&th. Sick, weak, feverish, and faint at heart — 
sore throat by taking cold last night. About sun- 
rise, the motley crowd around me, lying heads and 
points, began to roll over, stretch, and yawn ; 
gather up their duds, strike fire, and light their 
pipes. This last act was the most tolerable of all ; 
as the volumes of tobacco smoke had a salutary 
effect in stifling that ' compound of villainous 
smells,' so prevalent in such an assembly. 

Dead calm yet continues. These Greeks can 
bear any thing — hunger, thirst, nakedness, heat, 
vermin, and every kind of selfdenial, with the 



SYRA. 



105 



most philosophic patience and fortitude. I never 
before so fully experienced the want of those pro- 
perties which constitute the character of the man 
of Uz. About 10 A. M. a light breeze enabled us 
to get under way ; but about a mile out of the 
harbor, were met with a head wind, against which 
were able, by beating, to make but little progress. 
In this situation, am compelled to endure another 
tedious night in this wretched kennel. 

1th, Sunday. A httle favorable wind during the 
latter part of last night, brought us at sunrise, 
within about 20 miles of Syra. Passed the beau- 
tiful islands of Thermeae, Andros, Tinos, and some 
others of minor importance. Tinos is rich and 
very populous ; containing 68 villages, a superb 
church, and other elegant public buildings. It is 
famous for the manufacture of the best silk stock- 
ings in Greece or any part of Europe. A consul 
resides here ; it is also the seat of an arch bishop. 

Arrived at Syra at 2 P. M., but finding no per- 
son here who speaks English, had much difficulty 
and delay in landing my baggage. The officer of 
the port opened the trunks, and critically examined 
the contents, as well as all the baggage of the other 
passengers ; but observing my name on one of my 
trunks, refused my keys, and permitted all my 
baggage to pass without examination. After con- 
siderable perplexity and delay, found good lodg- 
ings at a reputable Locanda, kept by an Italian, a 
9 



106 JOURNAL OF A TOTTK, &C. 

\ 

good natured, kindy obliging man. I felt better go 
commodated because he speaks English as well as 
the French, Greek and Italian languages. After 
a hght supper^tt la Grec, retired to my mattress 
with clean sheets in a clean room, and enjoyed 
something of that comfort, of which I had so long 
been deprived. 

Syi^a, Sept. 8th. This delightful island is about 
45 miles in circumference. The city of the same 
name is situated on the S. E. side, where the sea 
forms a cove, around which the city is built. This 
cove constitutes a capacious, safe and convenient 
harbor for shipping of all sizes. The city, like 
most others in the islands of the Archipelago, is 
built in the oriental style, with flat roofs and massy 
walls. It is not unfrequent that the garden of one 
family is formed on the roof of their next neigh-^ 
bor's house, and in front of their own ; but to ren- 
der it productive, frequent irrigation is necessary. 
The present population of Syra, or Zyra, is vari- 
ously estimated, from !20,000 to 35,000 — in addi- 
tion to which are many thousands of foreigners and 
refugees now residing here, swelling the present 
population to 40,000, or, as some here say, to 
45,000. It is a place of great trade, but must de- 
cline as soon as Athens shall be evacuated by the 
Turks. Nearly the whole city may be called a 
continued market, without any regular market- 
squares. I was much surprised at seeing here 



SYRA. 107 

isiicli large quantities of European, India and Ame- 
rican goods, which are sold as cheap, and many 
articles cheaper, than at New York or Boston. 
Upon inquiring o( one of the merchants, he 
informed me, these goods were pirated, as he ex- 
pressed it, and, at the reduced price at which they 
are sold, afford a handsome profit to the retailers. 

The state of things grown out of the present 
war, has rendered Syra a general depot for most 
of the islands in the Archipelago. During the 
continuance of the piracies which have so much 
disgraced the islanders, Syra was their common 
rendezvous. It is currently reported in Greece 
that many officers of the gON ernment, whose duty 
it was to discountenance and suppress these pira- 
cies, W'Cre concerned and aiding in carrying them 
on, and enriched themselves with the spoil. Syra 
is also, in a great degree, to the islands and east- 
ern parts of continental Greece, w^hat Egypt was 
to the neighboring nations, at the time Jacob said 
to his sons, ' I have heard that there is corn in 
Egypt.' Immense quantities of wheat and other 
bread stuffs are brought hither from the Ionian 
islands, Trieste, Genoa, Venice and other ports of 
Austria and Italy ; also considerable quantities 
from Russia. 

In my rambles through the different parts of 
(he city, I have counted 109 grist mills, about one 
biili of which are carried by wind, the other 



108 JOURNAL or A TOUR, &C. 

wrought by mules. The wheat is of an excellent 
quality, and, were the flour bolted, would make the 
finest bread. Neutral vessels from Europe, tra- 
ding at Smyrna, Constantinople, Alexandria, and 
other parts of the Levant, make this their stopping 
place, and dispose of much of their cargoes here* 
I find, that an Austrian brig, II Redentore, Capi- 
tano Lu ea Kavurick, from Trieste, with a cargo 
of wheat, and bound hence to Smyrna, will sail in 
a few days for that port. By this vessel, after dis- 
posing of her cargo here, I hope to obtain a pas- 
sage to Smyrna. Made the British vice consul 
here, acquainted with my situation and views ; he 
assures me of his assistance, I have also, by the 
aid of a letter in my behalf, from Mr. King, to 
Doctor Korke, been introduced to the acquaint- 
ance of that gentleman, on whose kind attentions 
I can place the fullest reliance. But with all their 
assistance and good offices, it remains uncertain at 
what time I shall be able to take my departure 
for Smyrna. Every passing day increases my 
fears, that the American vessels concerned in the 
Smyrna trade, will leave there before my arrival. 
In that case, I shall find myself in an unpleasant 
predicament. But with all my anxieties, I find a 
mixture of comforts. I have now arrived at a 
part of Greece, where, by a fresher air, rest, and 
suitable food, I find my health sensibly improving. 
The order of th^ housp in whiph I lodge, is wholly 



syRA. 109 

Italian — good cooks, clean dishes and table fur- 
niture — great variety of meats, pastry, fruits and- 
other vegetables. The guests are principally for- 
eigners, among whom are French, Italians, Ge- 
noese, Austrians, Polanders, Russians, and a few 
English : among the latter is lord Elphinstone and 
suite, now on their way to Sn)yrna, From the 
short acquaintance I had the honor of making with 
his lordship, I found in him, fully verified, what I 
had often read and heard, descriptive of a true 
English nobleman. Plain and unostentatious in 
his dress and manner ; without any display of rib- 
bons, stars or garters — affable, easy, intelligent, 
polite and engaging in conversation, v/ith a dig- 
nified familiarity about him, which at once re- 
moves embarrassment from every one in his pre- 
sence. 

A bill of fare, in Italian and modern Greek, is 
regularly laid on the table at each meal, noting the 
price of each dish, plate and article ; so that the 
guest may take his choice, according to his taste 
and appetite. Greek wine of an inferior quality 
is placed on the table in bottles, the charge for 
which is about the same as for cider in New Eng- 
land. Most of the European guests dispose of 
their bottle at each meal. Among other articles 
of food, our host had a daily supply of quails, a 
beautiful and delicious bird, much resembling that 
of America in its form and plumage, but in its 
9* 



110 JOURNAL OF A TOUR, &C. 

size, one third smaller. These, prepared in va- 
rious ways of cookery, soon became my favorite 
dish. They breed in Poland, Hungary, Russia 
and about the Black Sea ; are birds of passage in 
Greece, Syria, and Palestine, commencing their 
migration about the first of September, toward the 
coasts of Africa, where they winter. Though not 
a bird of sufficient wing for a long flight, they 
pass from island to island through the Archipelago 
and Levant. They continue in plenty here until 
about the 15th of this month. 

9th. Syra. Fresh wind, N. E. flying clouds, air 
bracing and salubrious. During the continuance 
of the wdnd, in its present direction and strength, it 
will be impossible for a vessel of any considerable 
size to sail from hence to Smyrna, through the 
bogaz (strait) formed between the E. end of Tinos 
and the N. part of Miconi. At 10, A. M. called 
on the Austrian consul for his advice and assist- 
ance in relation to a passage to Smyrna ; also at 
the Sanita office, and on several Austrian and Ve- 
netian merchants, concerned in the Smyrna trade, 
bu^no information of a speedy passage of any ves- 
sel to that place, could be obtained. 

lO^A. Another day gone by, and yet at Syra, 
. experiencing something of that sickness of the heart 
arising from hope deferred. 

ll^A. Wind continues as yesterday ; operating 
as an embargo upon me and many others here, 



SYRA. Ill 

i'eady and anxious to sail for Smyrna. At 11, A. 
M. a Greek gentleman, from the island of Spetzia, 
called on me, and made some inquiry respecting a 
voyage he is contemplating to America. He states 
that he is the master and principal owner of an 
armed brig of 16 guns and 250 tons burthen ; that 
he shall go to Egina to-morrow, and apply to the 
proper officer of the government for the necessa- 
ry papers, and in case of success, shall sail his brig 
immediately from Spetzia to Samos, w here he shall 
take in a cargo of wine, oil, figs, almonds, and other 
fruit ; and be ready to sail for America w^ithin 15 
days ; — that he will afford me a passage gratis, 
should I wish to go with him, and will send me a 
letter, within two or three days, advising me fur- 
ther on the subject. But such is the uncertainty 
attending this project, that I can rest but small hope 
upon it. 

I2th. From some further information respecting 
the Greek captain, of Spetzia, his character, and 
wealth, the prospect of a passage to the U. S. in 
his brig, rather brightens. 

I4th. Sunday. The people here, and especially 
the younger class, instead of preparing for, and 
attending the duties of the Sabbath, are busily em- 
ployed in circulating tickets for a ball this evening. 
This, as 1 am informed, is customary here as well 
as at some other of the Greek islands in the Archi- 
pelago. 



112 JOURNAL OF A TOUR, ifec. 

A stranger, by a short residence here, sees no- 
thing indicating a state of war. Every one appears 
to be engaged in active business, or in amusements, 
such as are usual in time of profound peace. Their 
local situation is such, that the Turks have never 
attempted to make a dash at this island. Neither 
do they desire to disturb the Syriots, on account of 
the trade secretly carried on by them with Smyrna, 
Constantinople, and Alexandria, in which great 
profits are realized by all concerned. 

In this place, it may not be improper to insert a 
concise account of th^ present state of the Greek 
Church. Their church ceremonials are tawdry, 
and imposing, but illy suited to the rational sobriety 
of Christian worship. The priests, though they 
possess considerable influence, have not the same 
preponderating sway over their flocks that is ex- 
ercised in Catholic countries. This may be attri- 
buted to their poverty, and to the counteraction of 
the Mahometan religion. 

Where toleration and a variety of religions pre- 
vail, the power of the priests must be lessened, ex- 
cept within the pale of the established state creed. 
The Greek priests were greatly instrumental in 
bringing about the revolution ; they traversed the 
country, and enhsted their votaries in the cause of 
liberty ; they fought in the ranks of the noble in- 
surgents, and many of them permanently engaged, 
some as captains and others as soldiers. During 



SYR A. !13 

the period of their mihtary service, they are sus- 
pended from the exercise of their ecclesiastical 
functions. This rule, however, does not extend 
to peaceful employments. The late vice president 
of the legislative body, and the minister of the inte- 
rior, have been of the clerical order. They are 
industrious and frugal — most of them engaged in 
agriculture, and other useful labor. The dress of 
the pastors, when not on duty, in the country, is 
like that of the peasantry ; and they are only dis- 
tinguished from them by their beards. Every 
where among them, it is found, that the people, as 
well as clergy, are most anxious to receive the 
Scriptures in their own tongue. This may be con- 
sidered a matter of first importance, because the 
first step toward the knowledge of any subject, 
must be a right exposition and understanding of 
the principles on which it is based. By these 
means, the people will gradually become enlight- 
ened ; superstition and error will give way, and 
the dictates of religion will coincide with those of 
utility. 

The history of no other nation furnishes a paral- 
lel to that of the Greeks. For more than two 
thousand years, have they been a conquered peo- 
ple, subjects of other governments. During this 
whole period, they have preserved their national 
identity, their religion, and their manners. The 
Israelites, that peculiar people, and above all others 



114 Journal of a tour, &c. 

favored of Heaven, soon after their deliverance 
from the bondage of Egypt, became, in a great 
degree, amalgamated with the heathen nations, 
with whom they were strictly forbidden to have 
intercourse, and partook with them in their idola- 
tries. And yet the Israelites were the conquering 
nation. It is in the natural and ordinary course of 
things, that conquered n?X\ou^ soon become merged 
in their conquerors, and identified with them. Not 
so with the Greeks. 

Strange indeed would it be, had no errors crept 
into their church during the lapse of time since 
Paul preached among them ; and especially when 
taken into consideration, that they have hved in a 
kind of perpetual martyrdom. The enjoyment of 
their religion for four centuries, has been purchased 
at the price of blood. 

Other nations, under like circumstances, have 
sacrificed their religion to their conquerors, to ob- 
tain from them those privileges, which the Greeks 
have e\er considered inadequate to such a price. 

But with all their errors in doctrine and worship, 
it is hazarding nothing to say, that should a com- 
parison be made between the Greeks and the 
Christian nations on the continent of Europe, it 
would not be to the disadvantage of the former. 

Struggling for their very existence, under the 
most cruel tyranny that ever disgraced the human 
character — abandoned, as it were, by those nations 



SYR A. IIf> 

from whom they had a right to look for sympathy 
and protection, and from whom is due a greater 
debt than they can ever pay, it is indeed wonderful 
that the Greeks have preserved even the name of 
their religious faith. 

In respect to their political and moral character, 
they also stand equally and eminently distinguished. 
The genius of ancient Greece has never departed 
from the descendants of Solon and Socrates — of 
Leonidas and Archimedes. Of this, no further 
evidence need be adduced, than the maintenance 
of their struggle for nearly eight years, against the 
whole force of the Ottoman empire. 

Unyielding firmness, bravery, and love of coun- 
try, are inherent in the very nature of the Greek. 
During the present conflict, sacrifices have been 
made, and deeds in arms performed among them, 
which want nothing but the pen of the historian, 
to be enrolled with the most glorious of those 
achieved by their ancestors. The public sense, 
both in Europe and America, has been greatly 
abused by certain publications calculated to create 
prejudice against the whole nation of Greece. 
Avarice, degeneracy, and barbarity have been laid 
to their charge, and, to crown the whole, piracy. 
No charitable allowances appear to be made for 
the extremity of distress and sufferings under 
which they have labored ; — their country devasta- 
ted by a war of extermination — their trade annihi- 



1 16 JOURNAL OP A TOUR, &LCs 

lated — in a state of revolution — without a govern- 
ment of their own, to watch over and direct their 
moral conduct ; — thousands of their friends and 
relatives perishing by famine occasioned by their 
enemies — their wives, daughters and sisters violated 
and slain — their infants butchered as in sport by 
the Turks : these considerations have found no 
place in the mindsof those whose prejudices forbid 
any apology, even for such vices and irregularities 
as have actually been adopted by this wretched 
people. That avarice is found among the lower 
classes is not denied. And that necessity has been 
the cause of this vice is equally true. If they are 
degenerated, where shall we look for the cause 
but in their oppression and degradation ? "A 
wounded spirit, who can bear !'' That they are 
barbarous, is denied. It is true, indeed, that after 
the often repeated acts of the most appalling cruel- 
ties committed by their invaders in the massacre of 
many thousands of the unarmed and inoffensive 
Greeks, the latter, in a few instances, adopted the 
law of retaliation, by putting to death a few Turks 
found in arms, and waging war with them on their 
own soil. If in any instance, the Greeks have ex- 
ercised cruelty, they were first taught it by the 
Turks. The Greek is, by nature, , kind, gentle, 
and affectionate, in all the relations of domestic life, 
as well as noble and generous toward his enemies. 
Piracies they have committed ; but in a manner 



SYRA. 



117 



and under circumstances, which serve greatly to 
mitigate the offence. In no instance have they 
tlireatened the persons, or destroyed the Hves of 
those from whom they have taken property. 

It cannot be said, however, that these acts w^ere 
either poHtic or justifiable. But who are those 
against whom these acts have been done ? Euro- 
pean merchants, carrying provisions, arms and 
munitions of war to the Turks. In addition to this, 
it will be remembered, that many individuals of 
these nations had volunteered their mihtary servi- 
ces with the Turks, and were then actually engaged 
with them in prosecuting the war against the 
Greeks. 

It is but just, also, to consider, that at this period 
of time, the people of Greece, and especially of the 
islands whose support is derived from commerce, 
were in the most extreme need of those articles 
which were taken from these vessels. Their fami- 
lies were in a state of starvation. By the Levitical 
law, even theft was justifiable to satisfy hunger. 

Remove all legal restraint from the best regula- 
ted government on earth ; abolish the law, and all 
legislative and executive authority — leave men to 
act by their own moral sense alone, and where 
could be found a city, a town, or a village, in which 
would not soon be associated banditti of the idle 
and profligate, who would, in the face of day, rob 
and plunder their very neighbors ? 
10 



118 JOURNAL OF A TOUR, &C» 

Consider the Greeks as they really are : ^ nothing 
extenuate, nor set down aught in mahce/ and io 
their character more will be found to admire than 
to censure. 

However the present war between Russia and 
Turkey may terminate, little doubt can be enter- 
tained, that the issue will be such as to ensure to 
the Greeks their emancipation from the Ottoman 
yoke. And it requires not the spirit of prophecy 
to predict the approaching downfall of that corrupt- 
ed and tyrannical dominion. It is now holden to- 
gether but by a rope of sand. All the Barbary 
powers, from Fez to Egypt, inclusive, claim to be 
absolute and independent sovereignties, possessing 
the right of declaring war, making trea^ties, coining 
money, conimissioning officers of their armies and 
navies ; and to do all other acts of sovereign states. 
The Pachas in every part of the empire, constitute 
another body of petty tyrants. All these live in 
perpetual jealousy and hatred of each other, and 
of the Sultan. Mehemet Ali, Bey of Egypt, and 
father of Ibrahim Pacha, without doubt the most 
efficient man in the empire, waits only for a hint 
from the European powers, to raise the standard 
of revolt against his nominal master, the Grand 
Seignior. Such an event is devoutly to be wished. 
16tk. Made an acquaintance with one of the 
Greek chieftains, or captains of one of the mountain 
clans, who has distinguished himself in several bat- 



SYRA. 



119 



ties fought with the Turks, at and about Missolong- 
hi. His interesting manner and conversation dis- 
cover the qualifications he possesses for the duties 
of his office. 

These captains either are brave men themselves, 
or the offspring of those brave men whom the 
Turks could not subdue ; and therefore, soon after 
the commencement of the revolution, made terms 
with them, and to secure their attachment, gave 
them a sort of feudal tenures. They are princi- 
pally descended from cultivators and shepherds. 
Some of them have been corrupted by coming in 
contact with, and exercising sway under the Turks. 
In general, they are simple in their manners, excel- 
lent mountain warriors, keen plunderers, and cruel 
only toward their enemies, which they attempt to 
justify upon the ground of retaliation. They lean 
to democracy, fi-om a love of their wild liberty, 
from a jealousy of the Primates and Fanariots, and 
from a dread of being put down by a foreign king. 
Their passions on the latter subject have been 
heated to a high degree. 

The Turks taught the Greeks to be plunderers. 
Their exactions drove the cultivators and shepherds 
into the mountains, where they have, from neces- 
sity, lived like wolves, become freemen, outlaws, 
and plunderers. Hence avarice has become the 
prcvaiHng vice in Greece. Those who survived 
d»e slaughter and depredations of the Turks, grew 



120 JOURNAL OF A TOUR, &C. 

warlike ; sometimes the terror, sometimes the al- 
lies of the Turks, and, at last, the devoted friends 
of Grecian Hberty. Such was the origin of most 
of the captains, or chieftains. It must not, how- 
ever, be supposed, that these captains are the only 
plunderers ; many of the primates possessed power 
and wealth under the Ottomans, and were as grasp- 
ing as the soldiers. 

It seems to be agreed by those best acqainted with 
the progress of the war in Greece, that the introduc- 
tion of European military tactics has been of essen- 
tial disservice to the Greeks. That kind of guerilla 
warfare commenced and carried on by the mountain 
w^arriors, was best calculated to annoy the Turks > 
These soldiers were intimately acquainted with all 
the passes and gorges of their mountains, the defiles 
and fastnesses, through and by which the enemy 
must pass in moving with their artillery, cavalry, and 
military baggage from one part of the country to 
the other. In such places, a small body of Greeks, 
even without discipline, harassed and destroyed 
many detached bodies of the Turks, of much great- 
er numerical force : the Greeks, concealing them- 
selves among the rocks and behind trees, poured 
a most destructive fire upon their enemy, while the 
latter wasted theirs without effect. But, generally, 
whenever the combatants have come in contact, 
upon open and plain ground, with a force numeri- 
cally equal, the Turks have rcjmained masters of 



SYRA. 121 

the field ; particularly when a body of their cavalry 
constituted a part of that force. The Turk is no 
where else so formidable as when on the back of 
his war-horse ; these are all of the Arabian breed, 
and for mettle, docility, speed and courage, are 
superior to al] others in the world. They are early 
trained for military service ; and such is the power 
of discipline over their motions, that when they 
charge, the cavalier, after giving a direction to his 
horse, drops the reins upon his neck, and employs 
both hands in using his arms, consisting of a cara- 
bine, four pistols and a cimeter. A light tap on 
the side of the horse's neck, given by the rider, 
instantly turns or wheels him. On this charge, 
at full speed, the cavalier first fii-es his carabine, 
then his pistols, one after the other, and last of all, 
draws his cimeter: one brace of the pistols mount- 
ed in holsters, the other suspended at his girdle. 

Several English, French, and Italian military 
officers, some of whom had served under Napoleon, 
all men of experience and tried bravery, offered 
their services to the Greeks : they were readily 
accepted. The reputation for military science 
they brought with them, promised much aid to the 
cause of Greece. Their first efforts were bestowed 
upon the Greek officers and soldiers, in the intro- 
duction of that discipline, and those rules of prac- 
tice in war, which they had been taught in their 
former service. But these, it was soon found, 
10* 



122 JOURNAL OF A fOtJtt^ 8lC. 

could not be successfully applied in that kind of 
warfare, which, of all others, was the most advan- 
tageous to those in whose service they had now 
engaged. Many of the bravest soldiers in Greece, 
under the command of these officers in open field, 
were cut down by the cimeters of the Turkish 
cavalry. The defeat of Gen. Braddock was occa- 
sioned by his ignorance of the mode of Indian war- 
fare in our country : the discipline and bravery of 
his troops availed nothing against the ambuscade 
artfully laid by his enemy. A single hint, modestly 
suggested to him by Washington, had it been sea- 
sonably attended to, would have saved the general 
and his army. 

I7th. Severely attacked with an inflammation 
in njy eyes ; an epidemic, now very prevalent 
among the people of this island. 

I8th. Some prospect of a passage to Smyrna by 
a Genoese brig, which is expected to sail from 
hence this day or to-morrow, wind permitting. 

Breakfasted this morning upon a bird called in 
modern Greek the pianos. It is in size a little 
above that of our robin — plumage speckled, except 
on the back, which is a light brown. It much re- 
sembles our brown-thresher in its colors, length of 
tail, and legs ; beak short, soft, and flexible, with a 
broad head and wide mouth, in that particular 
much resembling our whip-poor-will. The pecu- 
liarity of this bird, and what renders it deserving a 



SYRA. 123 

place in the journal of a traveller, is its food. It 
subsists by sucking the milk of cows, sheep and 
goats, principally the latter ; and is by ornitholo- 
gists denominated the goat-sucker. It is a solitary 
bird, and not gregarious at any season of the year. 
Two are seldom seen together, except during the 
time of laying and incubation. It nests on the 
ground ; and never soars, but skims along near the 
surface ; and hence, I conclude, derives its Greek 
name. 

At 10 A. M., hired a boat and went on board a 
Genoese brig, II Giovane Francisco, Capitano Jo- 
seph Amedio Austraudo, which came into this 
harbor last evening, and is bound to Smyrna. — 
Agreed with the Capitano, who says he shall sail 
to-morrow, should the wind be favorable, to take 
my passage with him. But having been so often 
disappointed in respect to engagements of this na- 
ture, I can place no great confidence in this. 

19^/^. Early this morning, procured a boat and 
went with my trunks and other baggage on board 
the Genoese brig, accompanied by my friend Dr. 
Korke. The Capitano Joseph Amedio Austraudo 
very coldly told me he had no room for my bag- 
gage, nor accommodations for any passenger. X 
claimed a positive engagement, and at a settled 
price, (6 dollars.) I scolded and threatened — but 
all I received in return was, ^pazienza^ seignour, 
pazicnzd! I Patience indeed, thought I. But I 



124 JOURNAL OF A TOUR, &CC. 

have not a stock of that article sufficieiit to deal 
with such fellows. On my return to the wharf, 
vexed with disappointment, I called at the Austrian 
brig II Redentore, from Trieste, and agreed with 
the captain for my passage to Smyrna, for which 
I am to pay him 10 dollars, with the addition of 
50 cents per day for the time I shall be on board 
and not find mj/self. Though the brig is large, 
and accommodations good, nothing but the neces- 
sity of my being at Smyrna as soon as possible, 
has induced me to give this sum. Instead of 
being at Smyrna, as I intended and expected, by 
the first of this month, I have now great reason to 
fear I shall not be there 'till the last of it ; and if 
so, shall be in danger of being too late to obtain a 
passage to the U. S. this season. The captain 
having disposed of his cargo of wheat, assures me 
he shall sail on Monday next, should the wind be 
fair. Left my trunks on board the brig, as a kind 
of entering wedge. Being now, as I hope, about 
to pass into the Turkish dominions, and there being 
no American consul here, I find it necessary to 
apply to the British vice consul, Antonio Nicolo 
Vitalis, for a passport, certifying also that I am an 
American citizen. Having brought with me no 
official document of citizenship, found some difli- 
culty with the consul on that head ; but by the 
kind assistance of Dr. Korke, at length prevailed. 
At 7 P. M. supped on board ; plentiful meal of 



SYRA. 125 

fish of different kinds, served up in Italian style, 
with a variety of cookery — eoarse, brown, hard 
bread, with a quantum sufficit of olive oil and 
Greek wine — all very good. I ate with a better 
appetite, my health being much improved, and 
having now before me a fair prospect of seeing 
Smyrna within ten days. 

^Oth. At 9 A. M. went on shore — visited Dr. 
Korke's school, with great satisfaction. There is 
something in the Greek character distinguishable 
from that of all other people with whom I have 
had any acquaintance. Sprightliness, animation^ 
vivacity, docility, and gentleness of temper, are 
strikingly visible among the children — while those 
more advanced in life, assume the gravity, hauteur 
and indolence of the Turk. — Slept on board the 
brig. 

21^^ Fine, clear morning, but wind yet N. E. 
The autumnal equinox has a more durable effect 
upon the state of the weather here than in the 
U. S. It is not unusual that the N. E. and E. 
winds prevail for 30 days, commencing about the 
10th of September. It here goes by the name of 
a Levanter, and is at this season of the year, a 
great interruption to the trade between Syra and 
Smyrna. 

It strikes the traveller as a thing worthy of 
some notice, that at the landing place, and near 
the sanita oflice, scores of boats are crowded to- 



126 JOURNAL OF A TOUR, &C. 

gether through the day, whose employment is to 
convey people to and from the different vessels 
lying here, of which there are hundreds now in 
the harbor. As soon as you appear on the mole, 
dozens of these boatmen will rise up in their boats, 
all bawling out * capitano, capitano,' (a title they 
bestow upon all Franks) inviting you by their ges- 
tures to take a seat in their boat; and if by chance 
you walk so near them that they can catch your 
hand, you are dragged into their boat sans cere- 
monie. For this service, the customary reward is 
10 paras — about two cents. But if you cannot 
make the change exactly, but have to receive 
change, you are sure of being imposed upon and 
cheated, either in the amount or kind of money 
you receive of them. This vice extends to their 
petty dealers, nnechanics and all others of the 
lower class. From morning to 9 in the evening, 
these boats fill the harbor, sailing round among the 
vessels, each boatman crying out, * Oct-b-o-o — 
Oct-o-o-o.' 

Having received an invitation to dine to day 
^with the British vice consul, in company with Dr. 
Korke, went on shore at 10 A. M., and on my 
way to the consul's house, in the upper town, call- 
ed on Dr. K. whom 1 found in his school. At 
the close of the forenoon exercises, at the request 
of Dr. K. I made a short address to the children 
and spectators, upon the importance of early edu* 



SYRA. 127 

cation ; which Dr. K. interpreted in modern 
Greek. From thence we cHmbed up a rugged, 
serpentine, precipitous path to the house of the 
consul, where we were received with the utmost 
politeness and attention. The consul is said to 
provide the best dinners of any man in Syra, if 
not in Greece. Oars, 1 thought, afforded strong 
evidence of the truth of the fact. I am not ac- 
customed to notice the particulars of a banquet, 
which might be observed and long remembered 
by a gourmand ; but in justice to the consul, the 
skill and taste of his family, servants, and cooks, I 
cannot say less than this, that the dinner was 
plentiful ; that the varieties in meats, number of 
courses, different kinds of vegetables and fruits, a 
profusion of the best wines, cordials, &c. &c. ^c, 
fairly entitle it to the appellation of superb, ac- 
cording to the modern use of the word. This 
table, thought I, vrhile at dinner, does not well 
accord with the idea of starvation among the 
Greeks, entertained by me when I left the U. S. — 
also while at Poros, Damala, and Egina ; but it 
must be remembered, the consul lives at Sijra. 
He is a native Greek, about 50 years of age, ac- 
tive and energetic ; was bred a wine merchant — 
in the skillful management of which business, con- 
nected with some speculations carried on here 
during the piracies, he has become opulent. He 
is hospitable, generous, and kind to foreigners — 



128 JOURNAL OF A TOUR, &C. 

speaks French and Italian, and is a keen sports- 
man. 

From the early part of June to this day, not a 
drop of rain have I seen ; and but a few solitary 
clouds have appeared to oheer the sight of a for- 
eigner, roasting daily under a vertical sun. In the 
afternoon, arose in the W. and N. W. some dark 
clouds, attended w^ith gusts of wind, which, at 
times, were violent. Several vessels in the har- 
bor dragged their anchors, and three or four part- 
ed their cables ; — squalls in the evening, attended 
with light showers of rain. It was very grateful 
to my feelings to hear the drops pattering upon 
the deck, while I lay snugly bunked in the cabin, 
serenaded by the capitano, and four or five other 
snoring Austrians. 

22rf. At 12 last night the wind hauled, and 
came on to blow from the N. E., where it yet 
stands, forbidding all attempts to pass through the 
bogaz. Our capitano, like the Genoese of the 
long name, often says to me * pazienza, signor, 
pazienza,' in a smiling, good natured way. 

It is said, misery loves company. If consola- 
tion can be drawn from such a source, surely I 
have abundant cause to be content ; for many 
other vessels around us are anxiously waiting for 
a fair wind to waft them to Smyrna. At lO, A. M. 
went on shore to walk and to wear away time. 
In addition to what 1 noted under the 8th inst 



SYRA. 



129 



being now more fully informed respecting the city 
and business of Syra, have to remark, that the 
principal street is about a quarter of a mile in 
length, and from 10 to 13 feet in width ; paved 
with large, shapeless stones, irregularly and uneven^ 
ly laid, w^hich being a species of marble, and con- 
stantly travelled upon, are as smooth and slippery 
as glass, and without great caution expose the tra- 
veller to fall every moment. In the centre is a ditch, 
two feet wide and eight inches deep, bottomed 
and walled with stone. The design of this is, to 
carry off* the water in the rainy season. A kind 
of awning, made of old canvass, is suspended over 
the street about ten feet from the ground, so that 
neither the sun by day, nor the moon by night 
can shine here. This whole street, together with 
many others which go off* at right angles from it, 
ten to twenty rods in length, is filled with mer- 
chandise and tradesmen of every name in the dic- 
tionary. At one door you will see a dry goods 
merchant ; at the next, a tinker, next a toy shop, 
then a tailor, a druggist, a grocer, a tinner, a bar- 
ber, a jeweller, a vintner, a shoemaker, a confec- 
tioner, and so on to the end of the chapter of oc- 
cupations. The blacksmith, on account of the 
fiery nature of his trade, is obliged to take his sta- 
tion where he can have a little more elbow room. 
I saw many of them at their work, both at Poros, 
Egina and Syra. None of them had any other 
11 



130 JOURNAL OF A TOUR, ifec. 

shop than what was made by a blanket or a piece 
of coarse cloth strained horizontally upon poles, 
supported by four crotches, set in the ground. 
The spike of the anvil is driven into the ground^ 
leaving the face about four inches above the sur- 
face. The smith, sitting cross-legged upon the 
ground, plies his hammer and tongs, while the 
wife, or in her absence a journeyman or appren- 
tice, sitting in like manner, strikes for the master. 
The bellows are made with two pipes and two 
distinct lobes, each of which is a goat skin sewed 
up, except an aperture on the upper side to admit 
the air. These also rest on the ground, and are 
wrought by a child standing on his knees between 
the two parts. The slits or apertures are bound 
by small, round pieces of wood, which are opened 
and closed by the hand of the blower, while he 
alternately raises and depresses the skins. By 
this simple apparatus they perform all the heavy 
iron work used in ship-building. They use chdr- 
coal only. This, for want of a more suitable ma- 
terial, is made by charring small shrubbery on the 
mountains, most of which, is less in thickness than 
a man's finger. It is brought down in baskets on 
jacks, principally by women and children, it is 
scarce and expensive. 

The ship-carpenters make use of but very few^ 
tools in their occupation. At Egina, I had occasion 
frequently to pass through a ship-yard, near our 



SYRA. 131 

lodgings. A brig was then on the stocks, about 
which several men were at work. An adze was 
the principal tool used by them. With this, they 
hewed and shaped both their straight and curved 
timber, with wonderful exactness. I never saw, 
in any of their ship-yards, either an axe, hatchet, 
chisel or proper saw. And yet their models, in 
all classes of their vessels, are acknowledged, by 
foreigners, to be of the first order. Their caiques 
are constructed and rigged in a manner peculiar to 
themselves, and exceed all other vessels of their 
tonnagCj both for speed and safety, on a rough sea. 
But with all this bustle, crowd, and irregularity 
in the streets at Syra, it is to be understood, that 
but a small part of the inhabitants are actively em- 
ployed there in person. Every day in the week, 
and particularly Sundays, the locandas, which are 
numerous here, are filled with idlers and loungers, 
smoking their long pipes, sipping hot coffee, a la 
Turk, drinking lemonade, almonade, wine and 
other liquors ; all engaged through the day, play- 
ing billiards, cards, and other games of hazard, of 
which they are excessively fond. Any day in the 
week, you may count in an hours' time, by visit- 
ing the locandas, more than a thousand men ; 
many of whom are foreigners, engaged in these 
amusemriUs — or rather, idle and vicious practices. 
Yet it jjs but justice to add, that I have never seen 



132 JOURNAL OF A TOUR^ &C. 

one of the native Greeks, here or elsewhere, in a 
state of intoxication. 

'23d. Strong wind yet continues N. N. E., and 
affords no hope of being soon unchained from 
Syra ; — almost despair of seeng America this year. 
But every thing is in the hands of a kind and 
overruling Providence, which it would be impious 
to distrust. Went on shore this afternoon ; call- 
ed on Dr. K. and spent two hours with him in his 
school. The more I see and learn of the Greek 
children, the more I admire their vivacity and 
docility. Where could American charity be bet- 
ter bestowed than by sending the gospel, religious 
tracts, and other school-books, for the benefit of 
these children ! 

1 was much pleased at the method used by Dr. 
K. with his youngest class, — tenor fifteen boys, 
from six to nine years of age. Arranged on one 
side of their sanded table, with their wooden pen- 
cils, their attention was directed to a painted board 
elevated in front of them, on which was presented 
one of the letters of the alphabet. The head of 
the class pronounces the name of the letter aloud, 
w^hich is responded by each of the class. They 
then use their pencils, forming the letter in the 
sand. These lessons are continued from day to 
day, until the class are able to form every letter 
and character of the alphabet. They then pro- 
ceed with monosyllables, and onward to long words 



SYR A. 



133 



and sentences. Thus the pupil acquires the 
knowledge of reading and writing simultaneously. 
Might not this mode be profitably adopted in all 
our infant schools ? 

24^/z. This afternoon, the wind having hauled 
a little more to the N. and somewhat moderated, 
the captain concluded to attempt a passage 
through the straits. At half past 5, A. M., weigh- 
ed anchor. On leaving the harbor, the wind 
freshened into a stiff breeze. Passed the bogaz 
about 12 o'clock at night. 

25^A. At 2 o'clock this morning, the wind haul- 
ed again into the N. E. and blew a gale directly 
ahead. At 6 A. M., gale increasing, reefed top- 
sails; at 9, sea frequently broke over us ; at 12, 
the tempest increasing, reefed the mainsail ; at 1 
P. M., finding it impossible to proceed, and not 
having sufficient sea room to beat safely, the Cap- 
tain about ship and stood back for Syra, where 
we arrived 24 hours after our departure. We 
encountered nothing in passing the Atlantic and 
Mediterranean to Poros, of equal fatigue and dan- 
ger with this short trip. 

2Gtk. Syra, Gale yet continues. At 7 A. M. 
went on shore ; dined at Draco's ; called again on 
Dr. K. ; spent the remainder of the day and night 
with him, enjoying the company and hospitality of 
that truly good man. 

27th, A young Greek gentleman, by name De- 
11* 



134 JOURNAL OF A TOUR, &C. 

metrius Stamatiades, a native of Samos, ha^ 
agreed by consent of his elder brother and other 
friends, to go out to America with me, and to take 
passage, for that purpose, in the same brig with 
me, to Smyrna. The object in view, is to place 
him at Hartford for education, under the particu- 
lar care of C. Sigourney, Esq. His brother, to 
furnish money for his passage to the U. States, and 
letters to Mr. Offley, their friend, the American 
consul at Smyrna, for all further assistance of 
which Demetrius may stand in need. He is a 
youth, between 18 and 19 years of age, of respect- 
able family and connections, of unblemished mo- 
ral character ; of a remarkably kind and gentle 
temper, amiable in his manner, and beloved by 
all acquainted with him. This character of him 
I received from Dr. Korke, who for three or four 
years has been intimately acquainted with him 
and his reputation. He is a good scholar, speaks 
and writes with elegance the modern Greek, 
French and Italian languages. For the sake of 
form, and to get along with the Turks at Smyrna, 
his passport is to show that he. goes out in the 
character of my servant. At 2 P. M., the bro- 
ther of Demetrius informs me, that by reason of 
so short notice, D. cannot be prepared to take his 
immediate departure for Smyrna, but must first 
see his mother at Samos, his father being dead, 
and take a few days for the necessary preparation 



I 



SYR A. 135 

of clothing, books, &c. for so long a voyag^e ; that 
he shall send him on to the care of Mr. Offley, to 
join me at Smyrna within six or eight days. 

Called at the Casino, principal coffee-house in 
the city, and the only one where the Smyrna news 
papers are taken, and after sipping a small cup of 
hot black cofiee, read the Smyrna Gazette, printed 
in French ; had the mortification to find, that the 
brig Tenedos, Capt. Loring, had sailed for Boston 
on the 30ih of August ; that the brig Rhine, Capt. 
Robbins, arrived there from Boston on the same 
day. The hope, therefore, that the Rhine will not 
have sailed also, before my arrival at Smyrna, is 
but faint. 

28^A. Spent the greatest part of the day on 
shore with my kind friend Dr. K. ; took a walk 
with him to the N. E. corner of the island, from 
which, at one view we counted 16 cities, towns, 
and villages, on the south side of the island of Tinos, 
distant about seven miles. The f^opulation of the 
principal city is said to be considerably greater 
than that of Syra. On our return to the city, 
called on and paid our respects to Anthimus Gazes, 
the famous lexicographer of Greece. His lexicon, 
in three large quarto volumes, is esteemed the 
best and most erudite of any extant. It was print- 
ed at Venice, and has gone through two editions. 
The author, in his personal appearance and con- 
versation, may truly be said to be a most interest- 



136 JOURNAL OP A TOUR, &C. 

ing old man : though now but 63, he has the marks 
of advanced age. His life has been employed in 
close and assiduous application to study and liter- 
ature. He is a native of Syra, but has spent 
thirty years of his life in Germany, and seven at 
Athens. He stated to me, that his lexicon had 
cost him ten years of hard labor, * day and night,' 
as he expressed himself ; that he * had become 
familiar with the lamp, by the light of which, he 
had turned over many books/ He is tall, with a 
handsome figure of person, and wears his beard at 
full length. 

29th, At 3 this morning, a light breeze S. W. 
for the first time within thirty days. At 4, weigh- 
ed anchor, and made sail ; advanced about two 
miles out of the harbor, and were there becalmed 
Hill 8 ; a light wind then sprang up from the N. 
W^itli which, by beating, we approached and pass- 
ed the bogaz at 12. This strait, in the narrowest 
part, is about two miles broad, made by the ap- 
proximation of the islands of Tinos and Miconos. 
At 1 P. M., wind died away into a calm. This 
condition, though unpleasant to an impatient voy- 
ager, afforded a most animating view of the neigh- 
boring islands. The atmosphere was serene and 
clear. From the deck of the vessel, and without 
the aid of a glass, I distinctly saw and counted 
twelve islands, part of the Cyclades, viz. : Tinos, 
Andros, Zea, Thermoea, Ura, Sephino, Paros, Anti 



AT SEA. 137 

Paros, Naxos, Miconos, Nicaria, and Delos ; the 
latter of which, is famous in Grecian history, for 
being the birth place of Diana and Apollo, and 
for having upon it the temple of Apollo, and the 
oracle of Delphos. On a near approach to the 
city of Miconos, counted 27 wind mills, standing 
within the city ; the whole of which, though popu- 
lous, does not cover half a mile square. It would 
be impossible for me, should I make the attempt, 
to describe the beauty and brilliancy of a sunset- 
ting view, on such an evening as this, among these 
and other islands " (nittentes Cyclades)" in the 
Archipelago. The serenity of the sky, the lively 
tints formed by reflection and refraction of the 
rays of light, rising, changing, and fading away in 
succession, and the soft, but rich gilding of the 
mountain tops, form altogether an enchanting 
prospect. 

30^/i. Calm continues. Having only cleared the 
bogaz and entered a broader sea, where we ex- 
pected wind enough from some quarter or other, 
we remain becalmed all clay long, with the melan- 
choly company of five other vessels ; nothing to 
cheer our spirits but a view of the neighboring isl- 
ands, a glassy sea, and a large shoal of dolphins, 
(the first I ever saw) playing about the brig. Sev- 
eral unsuccessful attempts were made to spear 
some of them, for a closer inspection of their 
beauty. 



138 JOURNAL OF A TOUR, <kc. 

OcU \st. We are now (6 A. M.) within a mile 
and a half of the same spot we were, at sunset, on 
the 29th u!t. This tedious navigation often presents 
to my mind, the expedition, convenience, and 
cheapness of travelling ' either by land or water,' 
in America- — that most highly favored and happy 
of all countries on earth. Were not my health in 
a good degree restored, it would be impossible for 
me to endure even this short voyage to Smyrna. 
No one on board, except a common sailor and my- 
self, speaks a word of English. The captain, mate, 
and a young gentleman from Cephalonia, a mer- 
chant, going to Smyrna on business, speak ItaHan 
and French. In this situation, I find myself con- 
fined with an unsociable, though noisy crew. But 
some amends are made, by its affording me an op- 
portunity of improvement in my small stock of 
French and Italian. As to my fare^ an example of 
one day may suffice. I rise at day-light ; wash, 
generally with sea-water. About sun-rise, a single 
<c\\p of hot, strong coffee, without milk, or a particle 
of any thing else with it, except dirty sugar ; the 
coffee cup, of the capacity of a hetfs egg, half full 
of grounds and sediment. This custom prevails 
through the east, among Turks, Greeks, and all 
those conversant with them. At noon, after a soup 
of macaroni or rice, a piece of poor, lean, boiled 
beef, fresh, if they have it, and if not, salted, and 
iuvariablj tainted— foj dinner, with ship-bread. 



AT SEA. 139 

softened with fresh water, without any kind of ve- 
getable, excepting now and then a few garlicksy 
served up with salt and pepper. This is repeated, 
with the exactitude of a facsimile — soup only ex- 
cepted, for supper. From 8 to 10, according 
to inclination and circumstances, spread my mat- 
tress on the cabin floor, and turn in. It must not 
be omitted, however, that a quantum libet of cheap 
Italian, Austrian or Greek wine is constantly fur- 
nished through the day ; this they drink in as great 
quantities, and with as little intoxicating eflTect, as 
we do cider in New England. 

2rf. Calm at sun-rise ; not a mile gained during 
the last night. At 7, A. M. a light breeze from 
the N. just sufficient to make the brig feel her helm, 
and beat slowly. At 8, made the islands of Samos 
and Patmos ; the former noted for the best grapes 
and richest wine produced in Greece : the latter, 
memorable for being the place to which St. John 
was banished for his faith in Christ, and where he 
wrote his Revelation. At 10, A. M. made Scio, 
that devoted island, distinguished above all other 
places in modern times, as well for the wanton and 
savage slaughter committed by the Turks, upon 
the inoffensive and defenceless inhabitants, as for 
the heroic firmness, bravery, and sufferings of the 
women and children. 

At 11, the continent of Asia appeared in view, 
bearing E. S. E. I shall not attempt a description 



140 JOURNAL OF A TOUR, &C. 

of my sensations at this interesting moment ; for 
I have not skill in the use of language to do justice 
to the subject. In crossing the Atlantic, and ap- 
proaching the continent of Europe,^ — when we first 
made Cape St. Vincent, my feelings were anima- 
ted, indeed, by the novelty and grandeur of the 
landscape, but scarcely deserve notice in compari- 
son with those I now experience. 

In the afternoon, the wind hauling a little to the 
W. of N. enables us to make considerable progress 
by continual beating. At 7, P. M. off the S. end 
of Scio, and in fair view of Ipsara ; the former on 
our starboard, and the latter on our larboard quar- 
ter. The sight of these two golgothas^ continually 
filled my mind with the most painful recollections 
of the cruelties inflicted here by the Turks. 

Anterior to that bloody massacre, Scio was one 
of the most populous and productive islands in the 
Archipelago; abounding in silk, oranges, lemons, 
figs, grapes, almonds, pomegranates, olives, cotton, 
and a^ll other products of its latitude and location. 
Ipsara, in all respects, except its size, being smaller, 
compares with Scio. Alas, how fallen ! 

The foot of the Turk, wherever placed, leaves 
iBterility and wretchedness. 

3(i. At sun-rise, find ourselves oflT the centre of 
Scio, and near to it ; hopes of entering the bay of 
Smyrna this day, rather faint. At 12, a light breeze 
from the N. W. sprang up — the only favorable 



AT SEA. 141 

breath of wind we have had since we passed the 
bogaz ; but so light is this, that we make but about 
two knots an hour. Passing by the city of Ipsara, 
I am greatly surprised, to find it far exceeding Syra 
in the number, size, and elegance of buildings, both 
public and private, notwithstanding the destruction 
of se%^eral churches and castles by explosion of 
gun-powder, voluntarily made by the fortitude and 
desperation of the Ipsariots, in which they sacri- 
ficed several thousands of their own lives, rather 
than fall into the hands of the merciless Turks. 
The population of Scio, at the time of its massacre, 
was estimated at 62,000, of which, but 6,000 are 
now remaining, and these in a state of abject sla- 
very, under the Turks. The other 56,000, who 
were not butchered, fled for safety to other and 
difl^erent parts of Greece, where most of them yet 
are, in a state of the most distressing poverty. I 
saw many of them at Poros and Egina, and a few 
at Syra. I hope in the providence of God, the 
survivors of them may soon be permitted to return 
in peace and safety to their once happy homes, 
where they may literally sit under their own vines 
and fig-trees, having none to molest or make them 
afraid. 

At 1 P. M., made the island of Mytilene, the 
ancient I^csbos, bearing N. E. During the night 
following, the wind was so light that we barely 
12 



142 JOURNAL OF A TOTJR, &LC. 

doubled the N. point of Scio, and shaped our course 
E. S. E. for the gulf of Smyrna. 

4th. Calm sea. At sun-rise, had advanced but 
two leagues from Scio. Cape Kara-Bournou (iron 
front, or black-nose,) a bold promontory on the S. 
entrance into the bay of Smyrna, rose into view, 
bearing E. S. E. about 20 miles distant, and 40 
miles W. of the city of Sm_yrna. Being now 
off near the centre of Mitylene, enjoy a fair 
and delightful view of that memorable island. 
From my fellow-passenger, the young gentleman 
from Cephalonia, I learned some interesting parti- 
culars respecting it, on which I can rely. It is in 
circumference, 120 miles : population, at the time 
of the Turkish massacre in 1825, was 70,000 ; now 
about 40,000. The three principal cities are My- 
tilene, Patras, and Caloni : in addition to these, 
there are forty villages. Though Mytilene abounds 
in all the products of the neighboring islands, it is 
distinguishable from all others in the Archipelago, 
for the quantity and purity of its olive oil. Before 
the late invasion of the Turks, the annual amount 
was computed 600,000 gallons. It is also remark- 
able for the production of the largest and best oys- 
ters in this sea. 

While slowly passing along, conversing with my J 
fellow-passenger about the island, I noticed a set- 1 
tied gloominess upon his countenance, which I had 
not seen in passing any other island on our voyage 



AT SEA. 143 

from Syra. Sitting in mournful silence, his eyes 
fixed on the shore, I discovered tears rolling down 
his cheeks, with evident emotion, but endeavoring 
to conceal them. This produced in me a desire 
to learn more of his history than I had yet thought 
proper to inquire. With a view to this, I led the 
conversation to a point which answered my pur- 
pose. I found him open, frank, sincere, and com- 
municative ; possessing a lovely temper and dispo- 
sition. His name is Antonio Vagliano, a native of 
Mytilene, now twenty-eight years of age. In 1824, 
his father and mother both died in Cephalonia, to 
which island they had, sometime before, removed. 
His father had been a lieutenant in the service of 
Russia, where one of his brothers, now holding an 
office under that government, resides. He has also 
four sisters, all of whom have returned to, and now 
are at Mytilene. He has established himself as a 
merchant, at Cephalonia, and is concerned in the 
Smyrna trade, to which place he goes annually for 
the purchase of goods. 

This outline of his history accounted for the 
emotion he exhibited on seeing tiie place of his na- 
tivity ; which awakened in his mind the tender re- 
collections of his earlier and happier days. 

From 9, A. M. till 12, lay becalmed off Kara- 
Bournou, at the entrance of the bay. After so long 
an absence of every thing like fresh vegetation 
among the Greek islands, during this hot and dry 



144 JOURNAL OF A TOUR, &:C. 

season, of nearly six months continuance, it is re- 
freshing to the eye of the voyager to rest upon the 
verdure, spread over the lower regions of this pro- 
montory. This is not Greece, but Asia ! The 
long chain of the mountains of Anatolia had also 
risen into view ; and, in the distance, added greatly 
to the grandeur of the landscape. At 1, P. M. a 
light breeze sprang up from VV. N. W. exactly suit- 
able to our wishes ; it freshened at 2, and gave us 
6 knots, and at 8, brought us within half a mile of 
the castle of Sangiac, situated on the S. side of the 
bay, 8 miles W. of the city of Smyrna. Here we 
dropped anchor ; no foreign merchant vessel being 
permitted to enter the port, without first procuring 
a permit from the proper authority in the city. 

The evening and night clear and serene, the air 
soft and inviting, afforded a fine opportunity, while 
sitting on deck, for thought and contemplation. 
We were now about to enter the great emporium 
of Asia Minor ; with which are associated the 
most interesting recollections of the history of the 
' olden time/ 

As a kind of relief, to set off this night scene to 
better advantage, myriads of torches were glim- 
mering in the fishermen's boats, spread along be- 
tween us and the north shore during the whole 
night. The loud, guttural, quacking sounds of the 
fishermen's voices, while managing their boats^ 



AT SEA. 



145 



casting aod hauling their nets,* accompanied by 
singing their wild and savage notes in Arabic, pro- 
duced an effect to convince me, that I w^as now 
much nearer Turkey than the U. States. The great 
fish market in the city is furnished every morning 
with fish taken here the preceding night. 

Ath. After coffee, the captain, my fellow passen- 
ger Antonio, and myself, with four oarsmen, took 
the jolly boat, to row into the city, in order to ob- 
tain the permit for the entrance of the brig. On 
our way thither, we landed at the castle, to pay 
our respects to the officer, ' a turbaned Turk,' and 
inform him of our business in the city. We found 
him w^alking upon the parapet — a white turban on 
his head, about as large as a straw bee-hive, mount- 
ed above a full, grisly beard ; a loose tunic, girded 

* In all parts of Greece, as well as in Turkey, their fish-nets 
are made in the form of a seaman's long cap, open at one end, 
and closed at the other. The mouth, or open end, is strung 
with a rope, on which are sus^»ended leaden balls of sufficient 
weight to sink it rapidly. They cast or let down this net from 
the boat where the watsr is from 3 to 12 feet deep. Great 
strength, as well as considerable skill is necessary, to give the 
mouth of the net, when cast, a circular form, as it strikes 
the water, so as to embrace as much ground as possible. Cords, 
li^e purse-strings, are connected with the sinking rope, by draw- 
ing which, the mouth of the net is closed, before it is lifted from 
the bottom into the boat. This is, doubtless, the same kind of 
net, and used in the same manner, as those used by St. Peter 
and his companions at the time he and they were commanded 
by the Saviour to * cast the net on the right side of the ship.' 
12* 



146 JOURNAL OF A TOUR, ifec. 

with a sash about his loins, to which was appended his 
^ong, curved cimeter; aloose and many-folded petti- 
coat or kilt, of white cotton, descending a little below 
the knee ; bare legs, and sandals on his feet. On 
mounting the parapet, we walked promptly toward 
the Ottoman, who, observing us, wheeled, and met 
us with all the politeness of an eastern courtier, 
gracefully saluting us by laying his hand on his 
breast, then raising it to his mouth, with all other 
ceremonies in due form, as the manner is, among 
the servants of the Sublime Porte. We, in our 
turn, paid him off for all this trouble, by a profusion 
of bows, rnadc^ executed, and delivered in our best 
Italian style. This was the more proper, as that 
w^as the language used at our interview. The offi- 
cer, having had some former acquaintance with the 
captain, and knowing, also, that the Redentore had 
entered this port before, in the same character ; 
and above all, by aid of a douceur, slily dropped 
by the captain into the hand of the Turk, while in 
parlance, (an argument of the most persuasive na- 
ture with most men in this part of the world) we 
were permitted to sail our vessel m, without the 
trouble and delay of proceeding further for that 
liberty. We took our conge of the obliging officer 
of the castle, and returned to the brig. 

This fort stands iipon a point of low, flat land, 
projecting so far into the sea as to command the 
narrow channel between the castle and the shoal 



SMYRNA. 147 

water on the north side of the harbor. It is 
strongly fortified, built in a circular form, with sev- 
eral batteries, one above another. Two of the 
guns, placed near the ground, and pointing across 
the strait, are of enormous calibre, carrying, as I 
was informed, a ball of granite, of 500lfe. This 
flat, for several miles above and below the castle is 
covered with beautiful groves of olive trees. 

At 9, A. M. our anchor was up and the brig 
under sail, with a fair breeze, for the port. This 
being the birth-day of the emperor of Austria, or 
of St. Francis, after whom he was named, (and our 
captain knew not which,) all the Austrian armed 
vessels, of which there are many now here, fired 
their cannon. Capt. Luca honored his royal mas- 
ter, or the Saint, by bestowing the same tribute of 
respect, on board the Redentore. This firing con- 
tinued, with short intervals, till 6 P. M. At 12 
o'clock dropped our anchor in 12 fathoms water, 
near the frigate Java, of the U. S., her stars and 
stripes proudly waving at the top of her mainmast. 
A boat from shore soon came off with a brace of 
Turkish officers of the port ; and having examined 
our passports and other papers, gave us permission 
to land. 

With leave of these * grave and reverend seign- 
iors,' 1 jumped into their boat, and went on shore, 
lea\'ing my trunks and other baggage on board the 
brig. The Turks landed me at the mole, and very 



148 JOURNAL OF A TOUR, &C. 

civilly conducted me to the residence of Josepa 
Langdon, Esq., to whom I had a letter of introduc- 
tion from Mr. King. Mr. L. received me w^ith all 
the kindness and hospitality for v^^hich that gentle- 
man is so well, and so extensively know^n. He is 
a native of Boston. His active and enterprising 
mind led him early to engage in foreign commerce. 
He has resided at Smyrna 8 or 10 years, where 
his qualifications as a merchant have rendered him 
eminently serviceable to Americans, as well as oth- 
ers concerned in the Smyrna trade. Beside his 
own native tongue, he speaks the Turkish, Arabic, 
Greek, French, Spanish, and Italian languages. 
His house is a sort of rendezvous for all foreigners 
visiting Smyrna in the course of trade or travelling; 
and most, if not all, merchant vessels from Boston, 
Salem, and other parts of the United States, tra- 
ding to Smyrna, are consigned to him, and laden 
back with cargoes procured by his agency. With- 
out ostentation or parade, he is kind and hospitable, 
plain and unceremonious, but easy and unaffected 
in his manner : the stranger, at once, finds himself 
at home, under the roof and in the society of this 
friendly man. 

At 4, P. M. had the honor to dine at Mr. Lang- 
don's table, with a dinner parly previously invited ; 
among whom were Capt. Kearney of the Warren, 
U. S. corvette, now at anchor in this port ; also 
two lieutenants, and two surgeons and physicians 



I 



SMYRNA. 149 

of the Java, with several other gentlemen of the 
navy. It is unnecessary to attempt a description 
of this social dinner. Suffice it to say, it consisted 
of all that belongs to Asiatic luxury, in meats, poul- 
try, fish, pastry, fruits and v^ines. I was very hun- 
gry, and having eaten nothing since yesterday, did 
ample justice to each course, if not to myself. But 
amidst all this good company, good cheer and hos- 
pitality, there is a damper, which spreads a gloom 
over my mind, which I never before experienced ; 
but which I had long and painfully anticipated. 
On entering the harbor, filled with more than 200 
vessels, of many different nations, I could discover 
no flag of an American merchantman. On inquiry 
of Mr. L. I found my fears realized. The last 
brig, the Sultana, from Boston, had sailed but three 
days before my arrival. 

These unwelcome reflections, for the moment, 
crowded themselves upon my mind : — my unfor- 
tunate detention by contrary winds at Syra — in- 
creased distance from home — precariousness of 
health — scantiness of pecuniary means — danger 
and fatigue of a winter passage, should an oppor- 
tunity offer a month or two hence — the improba- 
bility of a passage in any way this autumn or w^in- 
ter ; and, above all others, my increased anxiety 
concerning my family, who, when I left them, ex- 
pected my return about this time. But under all 
these considerations, I feel supported by a confi- 



150 JOURNAL OF A TOUR, &C. 

dent reliance on that kind providence of God, 
which is over all the works of his hands. 



LETTER IV. 

Smyrna, t)cL 5th, 1838. 
Dear Sir, 

Being now at rest, and in a situation more con- 
venient for writing than while on ship-board, I 
shall interrupt the entry of daily incidents and in- 
sert a short history of this great emporium of 
Western Asia. 

Smyrna, in ancient geography, one of the Ionian 
towns of Asia Minor, is situated towards the 
northern part of the isthmus of the peninsula of 
Colophon, upon a gulf bearing the name of the 
town. This town is very ancient ; and is said to 
have been founded by the Smyrnseans who in- 
habited a quarter of Ephesus, called " Smyrna," 
from whom it derived this name. Being expelled 
by the jEolians, they retired to Colophon : but the 
Colopholians, having been obliged to expatriate 
themselves on account of sedition, found an asy- 
lum among the inhabitants of Smyrna. Some- 
time afterward, finding that the Smyrnseans cele- 
brated out of their city, a feast in honor of Bac« 



SMYRNA. 151 

chus, they shut the gates and took possession of 
the town. The ^Eohans came to their succour ; 
but it was at length determined by common con- 
sent, that they should leave the lonians in posses- 
sion of the town, and withdraw themselves and 
all their moveable effects. The Smyrnoeans, hav- 
ing accepted this condition, they distributed them- 
selves into eleven other iEolian cities, where they 
obtained the right of citizenship. At a subsequent 
period, the Lydians took possession of Smyrna, un- 
der Ardys ; and having destroyed it, the inhabit- 
ants disposed themselves into different districts. 
Four hundred years afterwards, Alexander re- 
built it, about twenty stadia from its ancient scite. 
Strabo, however, attributes its re-establishment to 
Antigonus and Lysimachus, without mentioning 
Alexander. Nor does Arian in his history of this 
pro\ ince, take notice of this circumstance. Hence 
it is natural to conclude, that Alexander only 
formed a design of rebuilding it, or that he partial- 
ly executed his project ; that it was continued by 
Antigonus, and completed by Lysimachus. This 
town was destroyed by an earthquake, A. D. ISO, 
according to Eusebius, but according to Dion 
Cassius, two or three years sooner. The Chron- 
icon Pascale dates it A. D. 178. Marcus Aureli- 
us established it. The river Meles ran by its 
walls, and near its source was another, where it 
has been said that Homor wrote his poems. Hence 



152 JOURNAL OF A TOUR, &C. 

it was that Tibullus called these poems *^ Meletere 
Carmen:" but Smyrna arrogates to itself the 
honor of having given birth to Homer. At Smyr- 
na, there was a quadrangular portico, with a tem- 
ple of Homer and his statue. The Smyrnaeans 
had also a bronze coin, which they called " Homer- 
icum." This town was built partly on the brow of 
a hill, and partly on a plain; and towards its 
front and the gymnasium was the temple of the 
mother of the gods. The streets were paved, and 
intersected one another at right angles. It had 
several grand porticos of a square form, ranges of 
buildings, and a fine library. In process of time, 
Smyrna became the centre of the commerce of 
Asia. Luxury drew hither the arts ; and it was 
decorated by superb edifices, and crowded by a 
multitude of strangers. At Smyrna there were 
none of those tyrants who oppressed many other 
cities of Asia ; and even the Romans respected 
the happy state of this town, and left it the 
shadow of liberty. This city has retained a very 
considerable degree of its ancient liberty. 

The port of Smyrna is capable of containing 
the largest navy in the world. On account of the 
extent and convenience of its harbor, it has be- 
come the common rendezvous of merchants from 
the four parts of the world, and the staple of their 
commerce ; so that it is the first port for trade in 
the Turkish dominions. Its situation is deligjht- 



I 



^MYRNA^ 153 

ful ; ^11(1 approaching it by sea, it has the ap- 
pearance of a capacious amphitheatre, crowded 
-at the summits with the ruins of an ancient castle. 
The bay is extensile, the anchorage. excellent, and 
the water so deep that ships of considerable bur- 
den may anchor close by the wharf. Many Eng- 
lish, and some American merchants reside here, 
and they have consuls to protect them. The 
trade is conducted by Jew brokers, who are 
w^ealthy, and hve handsomely, and even splen- 
didly. 

The whole town is a continual bazar (market or 
fair) abounding with eveiy thing that serves for 
clothing, sustenance, and pleasure ; all the best 
commodities of Europe and Asia being brought 
hither for sale. The adjacent territory is very 
fertile, abounding with fine olive trees, and vines ; 
and it affords excellent wine. The present popu- 
lation of Smyrna (1828) is estimated at 150,000 
persons ; of these, about 30,000 Greeks ; 18,000 
Armenians; 12,000 Jews; 6,000 strangers and 
Franks, and the remainder Turks. There are 25 
mosques, 2 Roman Catholic churches, 6 Greek 
chapels, 2 English protestant chapels, and 3 Ar- 
menian chapels. There are no regular ex- 
changes ; but in lieu of them, about 420 house and 
street-brokers' establishments. Ships of war, be- 
longing to different nations, usually at this port, 
about 20 ; merchant vessels, from 150 to 200. 
13 



154 JOURNAL OF A TOUR, &C. 

The Governor is appointed by the Porte, and 
manages the civil concerns of the city ; but in all 
criminal cases is subject to the mollah or cadi, 
who is judge, of his district. The salary of the 
governor, or muselim, is estimated at nearly 300,- 
000 piasters, or about 17,000 pounds sterling. In 
the environs, are several fine villages, to which 
the Franks and wealthy inhabitants resort in sum- 
mer; particularly Bournabat, at the distance of 
about half an hour's ride, standing on the bank of 
tlie Melica, and at the foot of several numntains. 
Other villages are Curkluicah, where the imperial 
consul has a palace ; Bugiah, where the British 
consul has a good house ; and Sadig, where the 
Dutch consul resides. 

The total value of goods from Smyrna to Lon- 
don, amounted on an average of the years 1785, 
1786, and 1787, to 463,349 pounds steriing ; and 
from London to Smyrna, £423,548. In 1790- 
1791 and 1792, the exports to London amounted 
to £779,610, and the imports from thence to 
£848,240. 

This city suffered very much by a fire on the 
6th of August 1763, which destroyed many of the 
best houses, factories, and magazines, and occa- 
sioned very extensive desolation. The loss sus- 
tained was reckoned at 3£200,000 sterling. This 
city lies 38^ 28' N. lat., 27^ 08' E. Ion., 176 miles 
S. S. W. of Constantinople. 



SMYRNA. 155 

Find my health much improved since I left 
Syra. Slept well the last night, being the first, 
for more than four months, I have enjoyed the 
comfort of a feather bed. In w^alking this fore- 
noon through several of the streets, was invited 
by * the sound of the organ,' to enter the vestibule 
of a Roman Catholic church. What a profusion 
of gilded crucifixes, images, pictures, paintings, 
chandeliers, pontifical robes, smoke of incense, and 
other phantastical and imposing pageantry ! Is 
this the place where formerly stood one of the 

* golden candlesticks' of ' the seven churches which 
were in Asia ;' and which then diffused its light 
and comfort to the early followers and disciples of 
Christ ? Alas ! that ' candlestick is removed '! 
Darkness now covers this, once fair portion of 

* the earth, and gross darkness the people.' 

6th. By the polite attention of Mr. Burrall, an 
English merchant, was conducted through many 
of the principal streets and bazars of this bee-hive 
like city ; saw the mosques, synagogues, churches, 
chapels, exchanges, coflTee-houses, markets, &c. 
Among other things, (and not the least interesting 
to me) he conducted me to the camel's quarter, 
so called. This is an open square in the S. W. 
part of the city, of about two acres of ground, the 
former buildings on which, were, a few years 
since, burned down. Here are now standing 
or lying more than three hundred camels and 



156 JOURNAL OF A TOUK, &C. 

dromedaries, all saddled and ready at the call 
of any employer. Mr. B. informs me, he ha& 
often seen at Smyrna^ from twelve to fifteen hun- 
dred of these docile and useful animals at a time, 
about the close of the season for the arrivals of the 
caravans from Aleppo, Mount Lebanon, and other 
parts of the interior. 

Called on the Dutch consul general, J. Van 
Lennep, Es<|, v^dth Mr. King's letter of introduc- 
tion to him, requesting his assistance in my behalf^ 
in procuring a passage for me to America. The 
Consul treated me w^ith the most marked attention, 
assuring me of every assistance in his power ; en- 
tering, with the kindest feelings, into my present 
unpleasant situation ; invited me to dine with him, 
&c. 

Called also on Rev. Mr. Hartley, an English 
clergyman, and delivered a package of letters and 
other papers, sent in my care from Syra by Dr. 
Korke. This gentleman also made me a tender 
of all the assistance in his power. The kindness 
shown me by all these gentlemen, served to re- 
move from my mind, in a great degree, that pres- 
sure of solicitude, under which 1 was laboring. 

In conversation this afternoon, with Mr. Lang- 
don, Capt. Kerney, of the Warren, and Lieut. 
Saunders, of the Java^ the idea was suggested of 
my taking a passage in the Java, which would 
sail on the 11th inst for Port Mahon, touchiag^. for 



SMYRNA. 



157 



a few days on her way, at Malta, Tunis, Tripoli, 
and Algiers. All these gentlemen think it proba- 
ble I might find a passage from Mahon to Gibral- 
ar, without much delay, excepting fifteen days 
quarantine at Mahon. At the time of this con- 
versation, the Java was m sight, under sail out of 
the harbor, on her way to a Turkish watering 
place at Vourla. Capt. K. immediately addressed 
a note to the Capt. of the Java, John Downes, 
Esq. informing him of my situation and wishes, 
and desiring to know whether he would receive me 
as a passenger on board the Java. Mr. L. had 
the goodness to dispatch a caique with the letter ; 
to which Capt. Downes replied in the affirmative. 
This course, though attended with some difficul- 
ties, and much uncertainty, was, upon the whole, 
concluded upon as the most eligible. 

Itlt. Spent the day making the necessary pre- 
paaration to commence my voyage ; bought a 
few figs, raisins and almonds ; procured some of 
my linen washed, &c. &c. The present calcula- 
tion is, that at 6 o'clock to-morrow morning 1 go 
with my baggage to the Warren, now in the har- 
bor, and take a conveyance in one of her boats out 
to the Java, at Vourla, in company with some of 
the officers of the Java, who are this evening at- 
tending a splendid ball on board two Enghsh ships 
of war, now at anchor here. From 9 to 10, heavy 
showers of rain, with sharp lightning — the first 
13* 



158 JOURNAL OP A TOUR, &C. 

rain here this season — sore calamity to the ladies^ 
and gentlemen engaged in the naval balL This 
ball is given by two young English gentlemen. 
Captains of the two ships, one of whom is a son of 
Lord Popham, and the other, a nephew of Lord 
Wellington. The two ships were brought and 
lashed together ; an awning drawn over both 
decks, which were cleared for the purpose. . The 
bands of music of both ships played for the dan- 
cers, among whom were many Turks, Jews, Jew- 
esses and Gentiles of the city. The elegant dis- 
play of national flags and colors, with chandelier© 
and torches, rendered the hall room brilliant and 
animating; and awakened the best feelings among 
the guests, made up of so many different nations, 
languages and tongues. But in the midst of all 
this enjoyment, the copious showers of rain found 
their way through the awning, and sadly disorder- 
ed the turbans, laces, angoras, and cashmeres of 
the mermaids^ and drove the whole party ashore 
at 12 at night, where they continued the ball un- 
der the more efficient protection of a tiled roof. 

^tli: Capt. K. not sending his boat for me this 
morning, as was expected, at 1 P. M., I took a 
boat and went on board the Warren ; — learned 
that the Capt. had gone at 8 A. M. with a crowd- 
ed boat (his Rob Roy) with 20 men, to the Java, 
to join Capt. Downes and other gentlemen of the 
Java in a shooting party ; was treated with much 



I 



SMYRNA. 159 

civility and politeness by Lieut. Hudson, and 
other officers on board ; dined with them ; — great- 
ly pleased with this beautiful Corvette. It does 
honor to the American navy. The good order 
and cleanliness I observed here, exceeded any 
thing I had before seen in any ship. Lieut. H. 
had the goodness to invite me to walk with him a 
little out of the city. We took a course through 
the N. E. part, and about a mile from the harbor, 
»on the great road to the interior — passed over 
Caravan bridge, built by the Romans across the 
Meles, a small, turbid stream, about forty yards in 
width. The bridge is yet in a state of perfect 
preservation, consisting of a single arch, the span 
of which 1 found by admeasurement, is 24 feet. 
It is claimed by the Smyrnsean Greeks, that in a 
village, now^ in ruins, near this spot, on the bank 
of the Meles, Homer was born. This honor, how- 
ever, is disputed with the Smyrna^ans by the citi- 
zens of several other cities. 

* Septem urbes certant de stirpe insignis Homeri, 

Smyrna, Bhodes, Colophon, Salamis, Chios, Argos, Alhenje.' 

Passing the bridge, we entered the street run- 
ning through the great burying ground of the 
Turks ; consisting of 70 acres, about equally di- 
vided by the street, walled on each side WMth 
stone. This whole ground is covered with a most 
beautiful grove of cypress trees, standing so thick 
that the boughs come in contact with each other. 



160 JOURNAL OF A TOUR, &C. 

These are ever greens, their trunks strait, 8 to 15 
inches diameter, rising to a height of 100 to 120 
feet, in the form of a pointed cone. 

The monuments in this immense congregation 
of the dead, amount, as I should judge, to many 
hundreds of thousands, made of marble slabs, from 
five to ten feet high. Those for males are orna- 
mented by a turban, handsomely vsrrought with a 
chisel ; the name, age, office, (if any) and time of 
death, in large gilded letters : also, a line or two, • 
copied from the Koran, inscribed in gold cypher. 
Those for females are shorter, less elegantly 
wrought — without painting or gilding ; and ter- 
minating in a plain point without a turban. While 
passing through this sombre region, our ears were 
continually saluted by the moanings of the turtle 
dove, the same bird known in the U. S. by 
name of mourning dove. From thence about a 
quarter of a mile, we came to the palace of Soly- 
man Aga. He is now at Candia, of which island 
he is the present governor. The gate from the 
street being open, we walked into the garden, con- 
sisting of six acres, perfectly level, inclosed by a 
high stone wall, plastered, and beautifully orna- 
mented with paintings, representing flower-pots, 
flowers, festoons of vines, trees, shrubs, and a va- 
riety of other figures, emblematical of horticulture. 
Within this inclosure, on the west side, stands jthe 
palace, an elegant and costly edifice ; and about 



SMYRNA. 161 

15 rods south of this, the seraglio or harem, both 
of which are now shut. The Aga's present num-^ 
ber of women, in said to be twelve, and are now 
w^ithhim at Candia. Through this whole square, 
passing along in front of the palace and harem, is 
a paved way, ten feet broad, laid with smooth sea 
pebbles, black and white, of the size of a hen's egg, 
bordered on each side by a line of hewn marble 
eight inches broad. These pebbles are laid with 
great taste, representing by their different colors, 
fjgures of diamonds, flow^ers, scrolls, fishes, birds, 
&c. in the fashion of a carpet. Similar pave- 
ments are laid through the whole length and 
breadth of the garden, crossing each other at right 
angles, and dividing it into six squares of an acre 

each. 

On one of these squares stands the summer 

house, containing a grand resorvoir or pontano, 
designed as well for the irrigation of the garden as 
for bathing. This building is about 40 feet square, 
built wholly of hewn and polished marble, except- 
ing the roof, which is open lattice-work, of wood, 
and covered with grape vines. The floor is eleva- 
ted 1 1 feet from the surface of the ground. The 
ascent is by two flights of marble stairs. In the 
centre is the reservoir, 20 feet square, and 6 deep. 
The water is conducted hither by subterranean 
aqueducts, and thrown in by a jette cTeau, placed 



162 JOURNAL OF A TOUR, i&C. 

at each corner. The water now in it, is 4 feet 
deep. 

The profusion and variety of fruit trees, shrub- 
bery, flower, and aromatic plants, I shall not at- 
tempt to describe. The tout ensemble affords a 
specimen of oriental taste and luxury. 

On the north, or street side, stand the stables ; a 
marble building of 170 feet long, and 40 byoad, in 
which are now standing 15 or 20 beautiful Ara- 
bian steeds of different colors, also two dwarfs, of 
a size less than a middling jack. The groom of the 
stables informed us that Solyman had taken with 
him to Candia, the greater part of his best horses. 

Returning to the city, we stopped at the little 
khan (Turkey coffee house) on the west bank of 
the Meles, at Caravan bridge, and took a cup of 
hot coffee, resting a while in the cool shade of cy- 
press trees. 

While sitting on the bank of this classic stream, 
so long the subject of story and of song, sipping 
our Mocha, a kind of coffee, of which the Turks 
are immoderately fond, a small flock of geese, lazily 
floating about, came nearus,and ever and anon plun- 
ged their heads under water, puddling their beaks in 
the mud at the bottom. I listened to their gabble, 
calling into exercise, at the same time the greatest 
effort of imagination ; but possessing none of the pro- 
perties of the poeta nascitur, could perceive nothing 
in their cackling more harmonious or poetical than 



SMYRNA. 163 

I have often witnessed among those on the hum- 
bler streams of our own country. O ! the degen- 
eracy of modern times ! 

But it may be said, in behalf of these geese, they 
were brought up under the Turks, who have no 
taste for poetry ; and whether the good mother 
of Homer ever kept geese on the Meles, learned 
authors have never told us. 

At the entrance of the city, we passed, on our 
left, and had a near and full view of the ancient, 
bold, and long extended fortifications, built by the 
Venetians ; standing on elevated ground, S. S. E. 
of the city. Near these venerable monuments of 
the former glory, wealth, and power of Venice, had 
the satisfaction to see what is shown as the church 
of the great apostle to the Gentiles, and in which 
he preached when at Smyrna. All these are in a 
dilapidated state, particularly the latter, which is 
but a heap of ruins. 

Called upon, and paid our respects to Mr. De 
Young, the American vice-consul. He is by birth 
a German, a gentleman of fine accompHshments ; 
has resided here about twenty years, greatly re- 
spected for the prompt and honorable discharge 
of his official duties. Received the kindest atten- 
tion and civility from him ; invited to dine with 
him, &c. Spent the remainder of the afternoon 
walking through the different streets in the city. 
The houses are high and well built, few of less 



164 JOURNAL OF A TOUR, &C. 

than three stories, and many of four ; all of stone 
or brick, with walls of great thickness. Few of 
the streets are more than eight feet wide, paved 
and channeled, much as those atSyra. About 15 
feet from the ground, the houses on many of the 
streets jut over and meet, forming a ceiling for the 
street, which serves to render the place damp, 
dirty, and unhealthy. There are no vehicles of 
any kind, on wheels ; and when a single pedestrian 
meets a loaded camel, as very often happens, he is 
obliged to dodge, or prostrate himself, to avoid a 
counter current, and be driven back to the next 
street. It is not uncommon to meet 20 or 30 of 
these sober looking animals, strung along in a single 
file, tinkling their bells, and moping on, with long 
strides, conducted by their leader. Sir Jack Ass at 
their head. This little captain Bobadil, with be- 
coming gravity and self-importance, carries a cord, 
to the latter end of which his next neighbor is at- 
tached, and holds on his way, without turning aside 
for Jew or Gentile. 

The camel is of immense use to the people of 
this country ; they serve as a kind of fleet of mer- 
chantmen for internal navigation. Thousands of 
them are literally chartered by merchants at Da- 
mascus, Mount Lebanon, Aleppo, and other places. 
The weight of their load, in a caravan, on a long 
journey, is, for a male, 800 lbs ; and for a short 
distance, they carry 1,200 lbs. They live on 



SMYRNA. 165 

coarse food, are small eaters, remarkably temperate 
in drinking, and ruminate, like the ox. They are 
hardy, patient of labor, kneel, or rather lie down 
to receive their burden, and quietly submit to the 
government of their master, even of a small child. 

Among other animals here, I cannot omit noti- 
cing the broad-tailed sheep. They are distinguish- 
able from those in the U. S. in several particulars : 
their ears are much longer, and hang down upon 
the side of the head, like those of a hound ; their 
horns are rounder, longer, and stand more erect, 
like those of the goat. But the great mark of dis- 
tinction is the tail. It is, comparatively, of enor- 
mous size, weighing from 12 to 18 lbs., composed 
wholly of a fat substance, somewhat similar to 
marrow. It is not sold in the market, to ordinary 
customers, as meat ; but is tried up by the butcher, 
and sold in jars and bottles, and used as a substi- 
tute for butter and lard, l^he flesh of these sheep, 
for richness and flavor, is esteemed superior to all 
other mutton. 

The butcher's meat, of every kind slaughtered 
here, as well as their fish, fruits, and wines, are of 
an excellent quality, and are abundant and cheap. 
To those who, above all things else, delight in 
good cheer, at a reasonable price, Smyrna is, pro- 
bably, the most inviting place in the world. 

Among other animals seen here, the dogs are 
to be mentioned. It is said, the Turks in general 
14 



166 JOURNAL OF A TOUR, &C. 

believe that the dog possesses a soul ; and that 
hence it is, the Turks never allow themselves on 
any occasion to kill one of these privileged animals. 
Judging from the numbers daily seen in the streets 
of this city, you w^ould incline to give some credit 
to the account. They appear in droves of twelve 
to twenty, as you pass through the streets, lying at 
their ease, stretched out, so that the pedestrian, as 
well as as the camels, horses, mules and jacks are 
obliged to pick out their way, and place their feet 
cautiously, to avoid ti-eading on these favorites. 
Though they have no individual masters or own- 
ers, yet, if any person should kill or strike one of 
them, he would incur the resentment of the Turks, 
and endanger his own person. 

On the street in which stands the great bazar of 
the Jews, there is a large bakery, a few rods from 
which, on the same street, are several butchers' 
stalls. Between these two establishments, are 
continually to be found fifteen or twenty dogs 
in company. These are first rate corsairs, 
and, like Algerines, live by spoil and plunder. 
When hungry, they rise upon the passenger, espe- 
cially if a Frank, surround and stop him, giving 
him at the same time, notice of their intentions, by 
showing him their teeth. The traveller, if acquaint 
ed with the manners and customs of the place, buys 
his peace, and obtains permission to pass, by wav 



SMYRNA. 167 

ing his hand either toward the bakery or the stalls, 
and leads off his hungry attendants to one of them, 
where he purchases a small loaf of bread, or a 
sheep's pluck : and while the dogs are quarrelling 
with each other, and devouring the morsel, makes 
off with himself. 

The Turks manifest no fondness for these dogs, 
appearing to attach no value to them ; and it is 
but rare that any one of them is admitted into their 
houses. The shepherd dog, however, is deservedly 
and highly valued. This is a distinct species, and 
rarely seen except in the country. He is of a large 
size, full about the head — a prominent eye, with 
small ears, and a long bushy tail. He is distin- 
guished above all others of his race in this country, 
for his docility, sagacity, and fidelity ; and by these 
good properties, renders himself highly useful to 
his lazy master. 

Passing through these streets and bazars, I was 
often reminded of the confusion of languages which 
took place at the building of Babel. 1 presume 
that no other place on earth exhibits such a variety 
of national character, language, costume', and com- 
plexion. Here may be seen, Parthians, and 
Medes, and Elamites, and the dwellers in Mesopo- 
tamia, and in Judea, and Cappadocia, in Pontus, 
and Asia, Phrygia, and Pamphylia, in Egypt, and 
in the parts of Lybia about Cyrene, and strangers 
of Rome, Jews and proselytes, Cretes and Ara- 



168 JOURNAL OF A TOUR, <fcc. 

bians, all speaking in their own tongues, not the 
wonderful works of God, but of the secular busi- 
ness in which they are severally engaged. The 
porters also deserve notice. These constitute a 
numerous class among the Turks. As no carts or 
other wheel carriage is used here, the burden of 
the carrying business, falls upon the shoulders of 
these men ; a burden, however, which they are 
able to bear, beyond any other men I ever saw. 
They are seen in great numbers about the wharves 
and docks, and in the streets near the water side, 
where they are employed in lading and unlading 
vessels. They are readily known by the badges of 
their occupation. Each one carries with him a 
kind of pad, made of coarse cloth, stuffed and quilt- 
ed. This is fitted to the neck and back in such a 
manner as to give the load an easy pressure. He 
also has a cord, the use of which is to pass across 
his load as a binder, with one of its ends in each 
hand : by this he keeps his load steady and secure. 
They are stout, robust men, of great muscular 
strength, and carry at one load, from 4 to 800 lbs. 
weight. Mr. Langdon pointed me to one of them 
in his service ; and assured me that a short time 
before, he carried, at one load, from his ware-house 
to the wharf (about 25 rods) a box of sugar weigh- 
ing 400 pounds, two sacks of coffee, of 200 lbs. 
each, making in the whole 800 lbs. ; that after 
walking off a few rods with a quick and firm step, 



SMYRNA. 169 

the porter stopped and requested another bag of 
coffee might be added. Mr. L., apprehending 
danger from so great an exertion, refused the re- 
quest. At Egina and at Syra, I often saw porters 
harnessed in the same manner, carrying each a full 
barrel of oil or wine, 32 gallons, a long distance 
through the streets, apparently without any extra- 
ordinary exertion of their strength. Much of this 
superiority of personal power, they doubtless ac- 
quire by habit and constant practice. 

In consequence of being disappointed in my ex- 
pectations of going, this morning, down to the Java, 
Lieut. Hudson kindly offered to send one of the 
Warren's boats, to convey me and my baggage to 
that ship to-morrow. This was readily accepted ; 
and I engaged to be ready at 6 in the morning. 
Mr. Langdon rode out this afternoon to his country 
seat at Bournabat, about four miles from the city, 
and is not expected back till 9 or 10, to-morrow 
morning. Though the prospect of speedily com- 
mencing my voyage toward my native country is 
cheering, yet I cannot take my departure from a 
house, at which I have received so much kindness, 
hospitality and friendship, without feelings which I 
have rarely experienced. 

Smyrna, Oct, 9th, The boat from the Warren, 
calling for me at 6 A. M. as had been agreed, went 
on board, and after an excellent breakfast with the 
officers, started for the Java. The weather was 

14* 



170 JOURNAL OF A TOUR, &C. 

fine through the day ; but the wind being light, our 
eight oarsmen were heavily taxed by the necessity 
of rowing the greater part of the way. 

Soon after passing Sangiak Castle, had the plea- 
sure to see a large flock of storks, directing their 
course across the bay, to the S. I first took thenn 
for a flock of wild geese, which they resemble in 
size and color of plumage. On their nearer ap- 
proach to our boat, and flying low, I had a more 
distinct view of them, and discovered my error. 
They are birds of passage, observing the time of 
their migration with great punctuality. " The stork 
knoweth her appointed time." This bird, so often 
mentioned in the holy writings, breeds about the 
region of the Black Sea, and northern parts of 
Greece. Their flight toward Africa, is uniformly 
at this season of the year. They are gregarious ; 
and when they commence their migration, collect 
into large flocks. The ancients aflSrm that the 
young stork feeds his aged parents, differing in this 
respect, from all others of the feathered kind, — an 
example worthy of imitation by the human race. 

Arrived at the Java 4, P. M., and was received 
by Capt. Downes and his officers, with great civility 
and politeness. 

My ignorance of technical phrases, and particu- 
larly of those relating to navigation, will excuse me 
for not attempting to describe this gallant ship. In 
respect to her size and construction, her frowning 



i 



AT SEA. 171 

batteries — the order, neatness and regularity ob- 
servable throughout this whole floating castle, I will 
only say, "taking her for all in all, she is completely 
a thing of war." She is anchored in a calm, snug 
little bay, between a cluster of small islands on the 
N. and Vourla on the S. within about half a mile 
of the shore ; and now employed in her watering 
service. The water is taken from a Turkish foun- 
tain : and is of a good quality, fresh and clear. It 
is 22 miles from the city of Smyrna, and is a kind 
of common watering place for ships of all nations. 
Oct. 10th, The ship not having yet fully finish- 
ed her watering service, arrangements for the day 
were early made. Capt. D., Lieut. Gedney, of 
the Warren, two young English gentlemen, Mr. 
Johnson, and Mr. Murray, with myself, w^ere to 
make a shooting party — Capt. Kearney, with some 
other officers and gentlemen of the Warren, a 
party for fishino^. The guns had been cleaned, 
and the ammunition put up by the servants, over 
night. The fishing tackle had also been put in 
order. After an early and plentiful breakfast, 
each party took their boats, attended by a suitable 
number of oarsmen and servants, with abundance 
of things necessary aad convenient to guard 
against hunger and thirst through the day : such 
as boiled tongues, roasted and boiled chickens and 
turkies. Our boat landed, about 3 miles S. E. of 
the Java, at a place called Clazomenae, famous in 



172 JOURNAL OF A TOUR, &C. 

history for being the spot on which the army of 
Alexander was encamped previous to his conquest 
of Smyrna and other parts of Asia Minor. Within 
30 or 40 feet from the shore where we landed, is 
another Turkish watering place, a beautiful foun- 
tain of clear, cool, delicious water, issuing out at 
the foot of a marble wall, resembling a breast 
work, into a long marble trough, and conducted 
by a leaden pipe. Here we established our head 
quarters ; leaving our stores in the charge of two 
or three servants, to prevent the Turks making 
love to them in our absence. On ascending three 
or four rods of gentle acclivity from the fountain, 
I was almost entranced by seeing spread before 
us, a plain of at least four miles square, and of as 
great fertility as any on earth of this extent, the 
banks of the Nile excepted. Not a building of 
any description to interrupt the prospect. A few 
solitary olive trees of large growth, bearing marks 
of high antiquity, are, here and there standing, to 
afford their freshness and shade to the immense 
number of flocks and herds, which (the wheat and 
barley crops being now off") are feeding upon this 
extensive field. By walking over it, I find the 
whole divided into square lots of unequal quanti- 
ties, by ditches four feet broad and three deep, 
cut at right angles with each other. These lots 
contain from 50 to 150 acres each. Most of the 
large lots have upon them a well of fresh water. 



AT SEA. 173 

walled up with marble, and furnished at the top 
with marble troughs for watering the cattle. 1 
looked into several of them, and in none, found 
the water more than ten feet below the natural 
surface, but in most of them, not exceeding six 
feet ; though this is at the close of the dry season 
of more than six months continuance without rain. 
1 observed also, that on each of the large lots, and 
near the centre of them, was a level plat of forty 
feet square, prepared and reserved for a threshing 
floor. Here the wheat, barley and other grain, 
are threshed or trodden out by oxen or horses. 
The sheaves are unbound and laid on the floor ; 
the cattle, from five to fifteen, placed abreast, and 
connected by a cord passing from one to the 
other, are driven round 'till the grain is separated 
from the straw. Cleaning the grain from the chafT 
is performed by winnowing. " 

But I was carried, in imagination, into the land 
of Judea, when I viewed the vast herds of horses, 
mules, cows, oxen, goats and broad tailed sheep — 
and to close this oriental scene, the shepherds and 
shepherdesses, all in Turkish costume, scattered 
over this great savanna, leisurely walking about 
with their charge, or slumbering in the shade of 
the olive trees. Each shepherd was attended by 
his dog ; without which, on such an extensive 
field, and among so many other flocks, it would be 
difficult for him to manage his own. Several 



l74 JOURNAL OF A TOUR, &C. 

times in the course of the day, I noticed, that 
while the shepherd was on his back, snoring in 
the shade of an oKve tree, his faithful dog was 
walking about with the flock, and keeping them 
together. Such is the sagacity of the shepherd 
dog, that he knows every animal belonging to his 
master's herd or flock ; and if any one of them 
straggle aw^ay and mingle with another herd, will 
ferret out the truant and bring it back. 

Several of our party, having yesterday spent 
their time and strength clambering over rocks and 
mountains,. in pursuit of rabbits and partridges, it 
was agreed upon, that we confine ourselves this 
day to the plain of Clazomenae. We were all fur- 
nished with excellent pieces, plenty of amunition, 
with each a servant to carry it and the game. 
But with all this parade and preparation, the only 
game we could find here, was a little bird somewhat 
less in size than our robin, extremely shy, quick 
and tortuous on the wing, not gregarious, but scat- 
tered thinly overy the plain. The Franks call it 
the lark. It is a bird of excellent flavor, very 
tender and delicate. The number we bagged 
was in the whole, 76 ; and I doubt not, cost us 
more than 200 charges of powder and shot. Very 
few were shot while sitting. Capt. Downes dis- 
tanced all of us in the number killed. 

At 2 P. M., we repaired to the marble fountain 
and took dinner. I was very hungry when we 



CLAZOMENAE. 175 

sat down, and, as far as I had leisure to observe, 
none of the party suffered any thing for want of 
appetite. My health being now confirmed, I en- 
joyed the day, the sport, and the dinner. At 5 
P. M., we took to our boat, and at 6 arrived at 
the Java, all well satisfied with the duties rniAfa- 
tigues of the day. Capt. Kearney, with his fish- 
ing party came in, half an hour after us. It ap- 
pears, by comparing notes, the fishing party was 
less successful than ours. 

I here insert a short historical account of Cla- 
zomenaeT 

Clazomenae, in ancient geography, is a town of 
Asia Minor, and one of the twelve Ionian cities, 
situated in Lydia. Herodotus, who mentions it, 
assigns it in one place to Ionia, and in another 
to Lydia. The ancient city stood on the conti. 
nent, and was fortified by the lonians at a great 
expense, in order to put a stop to the Persian con- 
quests. But after the defeat of Croesus and the 
surrender of Sardis, the inhabitants were so terri- 
fied that they abandoned the city and withdrew, 
with all their eflfects to one of the neighboring isl- 
ands, where they built the city of Clazomenae, so 
often mentioned in the Roman history. Pausanias 
informs us, that Alexander joined it to the conti- 
nent by a causeway 250 paces long; whence 
Strabo, Pliny, Ptolemy, and most of the ancient 
geographers, count it among the cities of the con- 



176 JOURNAL OF A TOUR, &C. 

tinent. The Romans, according to Li vy, always 
treated the inhabitants with great kindness, ap- 
prised of the importance of this city to their con- 
quests in Asia ; for they not only declared them a 
free people, but piit them in possession of the isl- 
and of Drymusa, and often quarrelled with the 
princes of Asia on their account. 

Augustus repaired and embellished their city 
with many magnificent buildings, whence on some 
medals he is styled the founder of Clazomense, 
though this city was undoubtedly founded by the 
lonians, and from the beginning, was one of the 
Ionian confederacy. Some antiquarians take Cla- 
zomenae for the ancient city of Grynium, which 
gave the epithet of Grynaeus to Apollo ; for in an- 
cient times, Apollo had a famous temple in the 
vicinity of Clazomenae. Cybele, was likewise one 
of their chief deities, and also Diana, as we learn 
from several ancient medals and inscriptions. The 
Clazomenians held out against the Lydians after 
most of the other cities of Ionia were reduced by 
Alyates, who besieged, but could not master Cla- 
zomense. The Persians gained possession of it in 
the time of Darius Hystaspes, and such was its 
importance in their estimation, that they would 
not part with it at the famous peace of Antileides. 
Alexander reinstated them in their ancient liberty 
and privileges ; which were enlarged by the Ro- 



CLAZOMENAE. 177 

mans, whom they assisted on all occasions with 
great fidelity. 

Clazomenae anciently derived great pix)fit from 
its oils. On one occasion its inhabitants had re- 
course to a singular contrivance for restoring their 
finances. After a war that had exhausted their 
public treasury, they found themselves in debt to 
the disbanded soldiers, to the amount of twenty 
talents (£4,500) ; which, being unable to raise, 
they paid them during some years, interest, which 
they fixed at 5 per cent. They afterwards struck 
copper money, to which they aflSxed the same 
value as if it were silver. The rich consented to 
take it ; the debt was liquidated, and the revenues 
of the state administered with economy, enabled 
them gradually to call in the adulterated coin cir- 
culated in commerce. The ancient Clazomenae 
was tjic native place of Anaxagoras. On or near 
the ruins of this illustrious city, was built the pre- 
sent Dourlark or Vourla, a small town situated on 
the south coast of the gulf of Smyrna. 

The enjoyment of this day was greatly enhanced 
by the reflection, that I was now rambling o\ er 
the identical spot of ground on which once stood 
this great and flourishing city. The ground is 
thickly strewed with pieces of broken pottery, 
bricks, tiles, and polished marble. The wells I 
viewed are, doubtless the same made and used by 
the ancient inhabitants. I examined with great 
If) 



178 JOURNAL OF A TOI?R, &C. 

interest the ruins of the causeway mentioned by 
Pausanias,, connecting this plain to the island of 
the same name. Most of the piers are yet stand- 
ing ; and people daily pass by, walking partly on 
them, and partly on the fallen stones on which 
they and the arches were built. Several persons 
passed while we w^ere there, the water being shal- 
low. I should judge, without measuring, that this 
causeway was at least 200 paces in length.^- 1 had 
the satisfaction to shoot a lark on the wing, which 
fell upon the abutment at the south end of this 
causeway, joining the main land. At this spot 
are to be seen the ruins of a small building. 
The island is small, not exceeding two and a half 
miles in circumference, and is elevated and stony. 
It is covered with the ruins of ancient buildings 
and fortifications, and could not have been, as 1 
should believe, the place on w^hich the city of Cla- 
zomen^ stood. 

Oct, Wth. At 7 this morning, weighed anchor 
and set sail. Capt. Kearney, his officers and men, 
together with the two English gentlemen, all of 
whom slept last night on board the Java, now took 
their leave, and sailed in their caique, (the Rob 
Roy) for Smyrna. I was delighted at the dignity 
and grandeur with which the Java moved off, as 
well as at the skill and readiness of the officers 
and men in the performance of their several du- 
ties. The wind, though not perfectly fair, was 



AT SEA. 17Q 

such that we made handsome progress towards 
Cape Kara-Bournou. At 5 P. M., a heavy black 
cloud appeared, and soon came over, with a pow- 
erful squall, sharp lightning, and loud peals of thun- 
der. At 7 P. M., cloud passed away, and was 
followed by a clear fine night, and moderate 
breeze. 

Oct. \2th: Clear, pleasant morning. At sunrise 
found ourselves between the islands of Naxos and 
Paros ; the latter famous for its beautiful white 
marble ; — wind fair, and a good breeze. At 3 
P. M., made the island of Milos, bearing S. W. 
distant 35 or 40 miles ; Mount EHas rose to our 
view, its apex enveloped in cloud. At 4, black 
clouds in the N. and N. E. — wind fair, but threat- 
ening appearances of a gale. At 6, lightning and 
torrents of rain. We had now approached so 
near the island that another mountain appeared in 
view, of less elevation than Elias, and bearing 
more to our left. On the summit, is a thick built 
town, the white houses from this distant view, ap- 
pearing to great advantage. I regret, that the 
approach of night prevents a more particular view 
of this interesting island. At 8, off the N. E. part ; 
— two Greek pilots, with two of their friends, all 
natives of Milos, to be discharged here, and set on 
shore. It was now quite dark and squally, with 
rain. The ship hove to, boat launched, and the 
Greeks put on shore without accident ; 'though, 



180 JOURNAL OP A TOUR, &C. 

from the long absence of the boat, some fears for 
her safety were apprehended, particularly, as a 
heavy squall was fast approaching. By order of 
the captain a gun was fired, to give notice to the 
boat of the position of the ship. Wind continued 
northerly, blowing a smart breeze through the 
night — 6 to 9 knots. 

Milos, or, as pronounced, Melo, is about 20 
miles across, lying in a circular form. It is one of 
the Cyclades ; and by reas<>n of its local position^ 
and convenient harbor, is used a& a stopping place 
by most ships passing through the Mediterranean 
from Gibraltar, Malta, &c. to the eastern parts of 
Greece, Constantinople, Smyrna, and other places 
in the Archipelago and Levant seas. From these 
circumstances, it has become famous for the vast 
number of pilots produced here. It is an occupa- 
tion by which many, if not most, of the men living 
in towns bordering on their harbor, obtain a living 
for themselves and families. 

Oct. VWi. Wind yet favorable. At sunrise^. 
Serigo in view, bearing S. W. 6 miles distant. 
From 8 to 10 A. M., squally, with showers ; reef- 
ed sails. Afternoon, fair wind arid good weather 
'till 4 ; from that time, the remainder of the eve- 
ning and through the night, black clouds, squalls^ 
copious showers, with thunder and lightning ; pro^ 
gress varying, from 6 to 11 knots. Nothwith- 
standing the violent agitation of the sea, this gal- 



AT SEA. 



181 



lant ship moved along with but little comparative 
rolling or plunging. Had I been in a brig, with 
the same weather, must have suffered greatly by 
sea sickness. Having now cleared all the islands 
in the Archipelago, the remainder of our voyage 
to Malta and onward, is considered less dangerous 
and unpleasant. 

Oct. I5th, Squalls, thunder, lightning and copi- 
ous showers — blowing a gale. At 8 A. M., alarm 
sent into the cabin to Capt. D. " there's a man 
overboard." The ship was under such way, and 
the gale so powerful, that I felt but little hope of 
his being saved. But the man caught a boling 
among the many thrown over for him, and was 
taken up, with but little injury. Gale continued 
with increasing violence through the remainder of 
the day and night. Being now on the same sea, 
the same place in it, and at the same season of the 
year, St. Paul encountered that memorable storm 
recorded in the 27th chapter of the Acts, brought 
most feelingly to my mind, the dangers and suffer- 
ing of tlie apostle and those in the ship with him. 
*No small tempest lay on us,* Capt. D., his 1st 
Lieut., Mr. Newel, and several others who had 
been long engaged in sea service, agreed in saying, 
they had never experienced such a night — in re- 
spect, particularly, to the rolling of the ship. Be- 
ing now near the middle of the broadest part of 
the Mediterranean — a long rake from the N., even 
15* 



1^ JOURNAL OF A TOUR, &C. 

from the head of the gulf of Venice, the seas had^ 
by force of a strong N. wind long continued, ac- 
cumulated a magnitude and height, unusual in any 
part of the world. By the care and skill of the 
captain, his officers and men, the ship was put and 
kept in the best condition to encounter the tem- 
pest* But through the night, I witnessed such 
scenes as I cannot describe, and hope never again 
to experience. By the tremendous rolling of the 
ship, tables, chairs, trunks, bottles, dishes, table- 
furniture, maps, books, charts, nautical instru- 
ments, 'though secured by elects, cords and other 
fastenings, as is usual on such occasions, broke 
away, and strewed the cabin floor with a motley 
collection of articles, some of which were broken, 
and many others greatly injured. Little sleep was 
enjoyed among us this night, even by the oldest 
and most hardened children of Neptune. The 
immense weight of the guns upon the upper deck? 
strained the ship to such a degree, that the grating 
of her timbers, was, to me, truly frightful. ' Things 
that love night, love not such nights as these.^ 

C)ct. I6th. At 5 this morning, gale continues, 
but without any increase of violence. 12 o'clock, 
wind sensibly abated, but without any diminution 
of swells. Capt. D. had kindly favored me with 
the use of a cot, without which my condition must 
have been vastlv more uncomfortable. At 9 P. 



AT SEA. 18S 

M., the swells had so far abated that \V»e all enjoy- 
ed a fine night's rest. 

Oct. 17 th. After a pleasant night, with a fair 
wind, we are blessed with a clear, fine morning ; 
progress, 4 to 6 knots. At half past 1 P. M. made 
the island of Malta, bearing N. N. W. distant 
about 50 miles. Wind continuing fair but lights 
through the afternoon, were 20 miles short of Mal- 
ta at sun-set. Feel anxious to learn at Malta my 
destiny respecting a passage from thence to 
America. 

I8th. Another clear and pleasant morning. At 
sun-rise, Malta in plain view, distant 8 miles : had 
the satifaction to see from the deck, and with the 
naked eye, the far-famed Mount Etna ; also a con- 
siderable extent of the S. coast of the island of 
Sicily. It being nearly a calm, did not arrive off 
the mouth of the Valetta harbor till 1 P. M. I 
I now learn the Java is not to land here ; but 
heave to and send in one of the boats, to deliver 
and receive letters, &:c. Wrote and sent in by 
the boat a hastily written letter to my family ; also 
requested Lieut. Shubrick, the officer of the boat, 
to call on Mr. Eynard, the American consul, state 
my situation to him, and inquire as to the prospect 
of my obtaining a passage to Gibraltar, England, 
or the U. States. The consul returned for ans- 
wer, that after 15 days quarantine at Malta, he 
thought it probable I might obtain a passage to 



184 JOURNAL OF A I'OUR, &C. 

Gibraltar ; tlhough that was somewhat doubtful, as 
the sickness at that place was so mortal and alarm- 
ing, that but little intercourse between the two pla- 
ces, for a considerable time was to be expected ^ 
that according to the latest information, the yellow 
fever now prevailing at Gibraltar carried off from 
70 to 85 persons daily. I hesitated, but after a 
few moments' reflection, concluded that the Java 
would probably be at Port Mahon within 15 days 
from this time ; — that from thence, after a short 
quarantine of 3 or 4 days, L might procure a pas- 
sage to Gibraltar sooner upon the whole than to 
land here and undergo a quarantine of 15 days. 

Oct. \Qth. The wind having been light, and not 
altogether favorable during the last night, we ad- 
vanced but little on our voyage. 

The atmosphere being clear and serene this 
morning, presented a most sublime view of Mount 
Etna and the coast of Sicily. The form and figure 
of this stupendous monument could be traced with- 
out the aid of a glass. While I was feasting my 
eyes upon it, a long bright cloud, some hundreds of 
feet below the apex, was seen suspended, which 
added great interest to the view. A column of 
smoke from the crater was also visible, as well 
as the snow near the summit, which served to , 
render the features of the mountain more dis- 
tinctly discernible. In the course the ship sailed, ^ 



AT SfiA. 185 

the weather continuing fine, had Etna in sight till 
4 P.M. 

Oct. 20th. Strong breeze, easterly. At 6 A. M. 
made Cape Bon — said to be the north-eastern ex- 
tremity of Mount Atlas, bearing N. W. distant 10 
miles. At 1 1 A. M. doubled the Cape, and enter- 
ed the bay of Tunis. 

At 3, P. M. dropped anchor off the scite of an- 
cient Carthage, about 3 miles from the Gdletta, 2 
miles S. of Cape Carthage, and half a mile from 
the nearest shore. At 4 P. M. the boat of the 
American consul, Dr. Heap, visited the ship, and 
informed the captain, that such were the present 
quarantine regulations, that the ship could not take 
pratique till to-morrow morning, 10 o'clock. At 6 
P. M. the consul in person came off in his boat, at- 
tended by his drogoman, a kind of janizary, in 
Turkish costume, armed with an attaghan, in a 
silver scabbard, and a brace of gold mounted pis- 
tols. The consul, dismissing his boat, remained 
with his attendant, and slept on board. During 
the supper, and' till late in the evening, the conver- 
sation between Capt. D. and the consul was inter- 
esting, and, to me, very entertaining. He is an 
active, intelligent man, and appears to be well ac- 
quainted with the policy and present measures of 
all the European courts — of the Porte, and all tho 
powers of Barbary. 



186 JOURNAL OF A TOUR, &C. 

It was agreed this evening, between Capt. D. 
and the consul, that, as pratique might not be ob- 
tiined till to-morrow afternoon, Capt. D., the con- 
sul, myself, and such officers of the ship as might 
choose to go, take a boat in the morning, go up 
the bay to the city of Tunis, and, on our return, 
visit the Goletta, and take a view of the ruins of 
Carthage. 



LETTER V. 

Bay of Tunis, Oct. 21^^ 1828. 
Dear Sir, 
At 7, this morning, the broad red flag of the Sul- 
tan was hoisted on the ramparts of the Goletta, 
and saluted the Java with 21 guns from the upper 
tier of the fortress. This etiquette was wholly un- 
expected by Capt. D., it being unusual for the 
Turks to give or receive salutes. But after a mo- 
ment's consultation with his officers, Capt. D., un- 
willing to be outdone in courtesy by the Turks, re- 
pfied with handsome interest. The wind being 
fair, and a good breeze, Capt. D. deemed it his 
duty, as a public officer, to improve the opportunity, 
and hasten as fast as possible to Port Mahon. This 
occasioned an alteration of arrangements made 



AT SEA. 187 

last evening, which I very much regret ; as it w^ill 
prevent me from seeing Tunis, and the most inter- 
esting parts of the ruins of Carthage. It is now 
settled upon, that as soon as pratique can be ob- 
tained, the ship weigh anchor and sail. But it be- 
came necessary that a boat go on shore at the Go- 
letta, to receive the order of pratique. Capt. D. 
had the goodness to offer me a seat in the boat, 
accompanied by Lieut. Harris and the consul. 
We landed at the Goletta at 10 o'clock, A. M. The 
order of pratique not having arrived, I improved my 
time with diligence in viewing this ancient fortress, 
the canal upon which it stands, the lake, and some 
of the ruins of Carthage on the isthmus, near the 
Goletta. But 1 was choaked off in the midst of 
this/ea.9^ of soul, at 3, P. M. by the arrival of the 
order of pratique. We returned immediately to 
the ship. 

I was surprised at the saltness of the water in 
this bay. Lieut. Harris had kindly lent me his 
camlet cloak, to protect me from the spray ; the 
wind blowing fresh down the bay. I found it of 
essential service : the water frequently splashed 
over us, and wet our clothes. On arriving at the 
ship, I found the cloak covered with a thin incrus- 
tation of salt, and, on motion, made a crackling 
noise, similar to that of a thin glazing of ice. 

The short time allowed me on shore, afforded no 
opportunity for viewing the principal and most in- 



188 JOURNAL OF A TOUR, &C. 

teresting part of the ruins of Carthage ; but from 
the deck of the ship, and in our passage to and 
from the Goletta, enough could be seen to give a 
feeling sense of the denunciation made by one of 
the Roman senators — * delenda est Carthago.' 

After entering the bay, and while lying at an- 
chor there, I had the great satisfaction to take a 
peep into the plains of Zama ; that memorable 
ground, on which was fought the great battle be- 
tween Hannibal and Scipio Africanus. The victory 
gained here by Scipio, gave a death blow to the 
glory of Carthage, and in its consequences, proved 
the downfall of Rome. One of the historians, 
speaking of this battle says, with great truth and 
propriety, — ' Rome fell under the walls of Car- 
thage.' 

So interesting is every thing associated with this 
once powerful city, and connected with its history, 
and with that of Rome, that I cannot deny myself 
the gratification of inserting here a compressed his- 
torical account of it, in the language of Chateaubri- 
and, who, on his travels in 1806, visited Carthage. 

* Hannibal and Scipio met in the plains of Zama; 
the one celebrated for his victories, the other re- 
now^ned for his virtues : both worthy of represent- 
ing their great nations, and of disputing the empire 
of the world. 

At the departure of Scipio's fleet for Africa, the 
coast of Sicily was lined with an immense con- 



BAY OP TUNIS. 189 

course of people, and a great number of soldiers. 
Four hundred transports and jfifty triremes covered 
the road of Lilyboeum. The galley of Laelius, the 
admiral of the fleet, was distinguished by three 
lights : the other ships carried one or two, accord- 
ing to their size. The eyes of the world were fixed 
on this expedition, planned for the purpose of 
obliging Hannibal to leave Italy, and finally de- 
ciding the fate of Rome and Carthage. The fifth 
and sixth legions, who had been present at the bat- 
tle of Cannae, burned with impatience to fay waste 
the country of their conqueror. 

The day of departure at length arrived. With 
the morning's dawn, Scipio appeared on the stern 
of Lelius's galley, in sight of the fleet and the mul- 
titudes that covered the eminences on the shore. 
A herald raised his sceptre and commanded si- 
lence. " O gods and goddesses of the earth," cried 
Scipio, " and ye divinities of the sea, grant a pros- 
perous issue to this enterprise ! May my plans 
turn out to my glory, and to the glory of the Roman 
people. May we on some future day return joy- 
fully to our homes, laden with the spoils of the 
enemy ; and may Carthage experience the calam- 
ities with which she threatened my country!" With 
these words, a victim was slain : Scipio threw the 
reeking entrails into the sea ; the sails were hoisted 
at the sound of the trumpet, and a fair wind wafted 
the whole fleet from the shores of Sicily. The day 

16 



190 JOURNAL OF A TOUR, &C. 

after their departure, the Romans descried the 
continent of Africa and the promontory of Mercu- 
ry. Night came on, and the fleet was obliged to 
cast Anchor. At sun-rise, Scipio, perceiving the 
coast, inquired the name of the promontory nearest 
the vessel. " It is Good Cape," (Cape Bon,) re- 
plied the pilot. Qn hearing this name of happy 
omen, the general, saluting the fortune of Rome, 
ordered the prow of his galley to be turned to- 
wards the place pointed out by the gods. 

The landing was effected without molestation. 
Consternation pervaded both the city and the 
country ; the roads were covered with fugitives, 
men, women, and children, with their flocks : you 
would have taken it for one of those great migra- 
tions, when whole nations, by the wrath or will of 
the gods, forsake the tombs of their ancestors. 
Terror seized Carthage ; its citizens ran to arms ; 
the gates were shut, and soldiers stationed on the 
walls, as if the Romans were already preparing for 
the assault. 

It was at this juncture, that the Carthaginians 
recalled Hannibal fi'om Italy. He shed tears of 
rage : he accused his fellow citizens ; found fault 
with the gods ; and reproached himself for not 
having marched to Rome after the battle of Can- 
noe. Never did a man, quitting his native land, to 
go into exile, feel such profound grief as Hannibal, 
on leaving a foreign shore to return to his country. 



BAY OF TUNIS. ' 191 

He disembarked on the coast of Africa, with the 
veterans who had accompanied him in Spain, Gaul 
and Italy ; who could show more fasces taken from 
praetors, generals, and consuls, than were carried 
before all the magistrates of Rome. Hannibal had 
been thirty-six years absent from his country ; he 
had left it when a boy, and returned when advan- 
ced in life, as he himself observed to Scipio. 

What must have been the reflections of that great 
man, on revisiting Carthage, whose walls and whose 
inhabitants were almost strangers to him ! Two of 
his brothers were dead ; the companions of bis 
childhood had disappeared : fresh generations had 
succeeded each other : the temples, crowded w^ith 
the spoils of the Romans, were, doubtless, the only 
places that Hannibal could recognize in this new 
Carthage. 

Had not his countrj^men been blinded by envy, 
with what admiration would they have beheld 
the hero, who for thirty years had been shed- 
ding his blood for them In a distant region, and cov- 
ering them with immortal glory ! But when ser- 
vices are so eminent as to exceed the bounds of 
compensation, they are repaid with nothing but 
ingratitude. Hannibal had the misfortune to be 
greater than the people among whom he was born, 
and was doomed to live and to die in a foreign 
land. 



192 JOURNAL OF A TOUR, ifec. 

He led his army to Zama. Scipio pitched his 
camp near Hannibal's, The Carthaginian general 
had a presentiment of the infidelity of fortune ; for 
he requested an interview with the Roman chief, 
to offer proposals of peace. A place was appoint- 
ed for the interview. 

When the two captains met, they continued si- 
lent for some time, overpowered with admiration 
of each other. Hannibal at length spoke as fol- 
lows : " The gods, O Scipio, decreed that your 
father should be the first of the hostile generals 
whom I should meet in arms in Italy : those same 
gods command me to come this day, unarmed^ to 
demand peace of his son. You have seen the 
Carthaginians encamped at the gates of Rome : 
the noise of a Roman camp is now heard within the 
walls of Carthage. I left my country a child ; I 
return to it mature in years ; long experience of 
good and bad fortune, has taught me to judge of 
things by reason, and not by the event. Your 
youth, and prosperity, which has not yet forsaken 
you, will perhaps render you hostile to peace : 
amid success we think not of adversity. You are 
about the same age that I was at Cannae and Thra- 
symene. Consider what I have been, and learn 
from my example, the inconstancy of fortune. He 
who addresses you in the language of supplication,, 
is that Hannibal who encamped between the Tiber 
and the Teverone, ready to assault Rome herself^ 



BAY OF TUNIS. 



193 



deliberated what he should do with your native 
land. 1 have carried terror into the fields of your 
fathers, and am now reduced so low as to implore 
you to spare my country a similar calamity. No- 
thing is more uncertain than the chances of war : 
a moment may blast all your glory and your hopes. 
Agree to peace, and you remain the arbiter of your 
destiny ; fight, and you resign your fate into the 
hands of the gods." 

To this studied harangue, Scipio replied with 
greater frankness but with less eloquence. He re- 
jected as unsatisfactory the proposals made by 
Hannibal ; and both sides prepared for battle. It 
is probable that the interest of his country was not 
the only motive that induced the Roman general 
to refuse a compromise with the Carthaginian com- 
mander, and that Scipio could not withstand the 
desire of trying his strength with Hannibal. 

The day after this interview, both armies, com- 
posed of veterans, and headed by the two greatest 
captains of the two greatest nations in the world, 
advanced to contend, not for the walls of Rome or 
Carthage, but for the empire of the world, the 
stake of this last struggle. 

Scipio placed the hastati in the first rank, the 
principes in the second, and the triarii in the third, 
leaving equal intervals between these lines to form 
a passage for the Carthaginian elephants. Light 
troops, dispersed in these spaces, were, as occasion 
16* 



194 JOURNAL OF A TOUR, &C. 

required, to fall back upon the heavy armed sol- 
diers, and to discharge upon the elephants a shower 
of arrows and javelins. Lselius covered the left 
wing of the army with the Roman cavalry, and 
Masinissa commanded the Numidian horse on the 
right. 

Hannibal drew up eighty elephants in front of 
his army, the first line of which was composed of 
Ligurians, Gauls, Baleares, and Mauritanians ; the 
Carthaginians constituted the second ; and the 
Bruttii, posted in their rear, formed a kind of re- 
serve, on which the general placed very little de- 
pendence. Hannibal opposed his cavalry to the 
Roman horse, the Carthaginians to Lselius, and the 
Numidians to Masinissa. 

The Romans first gave the signal for the attack. 
At the same time they setup such shouts that the 
elephants fell back affrighted on the left wing of 
Ilannibal's army, and threw the Numidian horse 
into confusion. Masinissa, availing himself of this 
circumstance, rushed upon them, and put them to 
flight. The rest of the elephants, which had advan- 
ced against the Romans, were repulsed by the light 
troops, and produced the same accident in the right 
wing of the Carthaginians, as had befallen the left. 
Thus, in the very first onset, Hannibal was left 
without cavalry, and unprotected on both flanks. 

Urgent reasons, not recorded in history, doubt- 
less forbade him to think of retreat. The infantry 



BAY OP TUNIS. 195 

having engaged, Scipio's troops easily routed the 
first Hne of the enemy, entirely composed of mer- 
cenaries. The Romans and the Carthaginians 
were now opposed to each other : the former, in 
order to reach the latter, being obliged to pass 
over heaps of carcases, broke their line, and were 
on the point of losing the victory. Scipio perceived 
the danger, and changed his order of battle. He 
ordered the principes and the triarii to advance 
into the first line, and placed them on the right and 
left of the hastati ; by w hich means he formed 
a larger front than Hannibal's army, already 
weakened by the loss of its cavalry, and the first 
line of his infantry. The Carthaginian veterans 
maintained the glory which they had won in so 
many engagements. Among them were to be 
seen, distinguished by crovtms, common soldiers, 
who had, with their own hands, killed generals and 
consuls. The Roman cavalry, returning from the 
pursuit of the enemy, charged the old companions 
of Hannibal in the rear. Surrounded on all sides, 
they fought to the last gasp ; and gave up their 
standards only with their lives. Hannibal himself, 
after having done all that could be expected of a 
great general and a valiant soldier, escaped with a 
few horse. 

Being left master of the field of battle, Scipio be- 
stowed great praise on the skill displayed by his 
rival in the conduct of the engagement. Was this 



19& JOURNAL OF A TOUR, &C. 

generosity or pride ? Perhaps both ; for Scipio 
was the victor, and Hannibal the vanquished. 

The battle of Zama put an end to the second 
punic war. Carthage sued for peace, and obtain- 
ed it, but upon such conditions as announced her 
approaching ruin. Hannibal, not venturing to 
rely on the faith of an ungrateful people, aban- 
doned his country. He wandered about among 
foreign courts, every where striving to raise up 
enemies against the Romans, and every where 
pursued by them ; giving weak monarchs advice 
which they were incapable of following, and learn- 
ing from his own experience that neither glory nor 
misfortunes are a recommendation to crowned 
hosts. It is said that he met Scipio at Ephesus, 
and that in conversation with his conqueror, the 
latter asked : * In your opinion, Hannibal, who 
was the greatest general that ever lived V * Alex- 
ander,' replied the Carthaginian. * And who was 
the second V rejoined Scipio. ' Pyrrhus.' * And 
the third V ' Myself * But what would you have 
said,' cried Scipio, laughing, * if you had conquer- 
ed me ?' * In that case,' replied Hannibal, * I 
should have placed myself above Alexander" — 
an expression which proves that the illustrious ex- 
ile had learned in courts the art of flattering, and 
that he had at the same time too much modesty 
and too much pride. 

The Romans could not be easy as long as they 



Bay of TUNIS. 197 

knew that Hannibal was living. Solitary, pro- 
scribed, and oppressed with adversity, he seemed 
to them to counterpoise the fortune of the capitol. 
They were humbled by the idea that the world 
contained a man who had vanquished them, and 
who was not affrighted at their greatness. They 
sent an embassy to Asia, to demand of king Pru- 
sias the death of his guest. Frusias had the base- 
ness to give up Hannibal ; on which that great 
man swallowed poison, saying : * Let us deliver 
the Romans from the terror excited in them by an 
old man, exiled, unarmed, and betrayed." 

Scipio underwent, like Hannibal, the penalty 
attached to glory. He ended his days at Liter- 
num in voluntary exile. It is remarkable that 
Hannibal, Philopoemen, and Scipio, died about the 
same time, all three of them victims to the ingrat- 
itude of their respective countries. The African 
had the following well known inscription engraven 
on his tomb : 

UNGRATEFUL LAND OF MY NATIVITY, 
THOU SHALT NOT POSSESS MY BONES. 

But after all, proscription and exile, which 
plunge vulgar names into oblivion, draw the eyes 
of all to such as are illustrious : successful virtue 
dazzles — but, when persecuted, it charms. Car- 
thage herself did not long survive Hannibal. 
Scipio Nasica, and the most enlightened senators^ 



198 JOURNAL OP A TOUR, &C. 

were solicitous to preserve a rival to Rome : but 
who can change the destinies of empires ! The 
inveterate hatred of the elder Cato proved trium- 
phant, and on the most frivolous pretext, the Ro- 
mans commenced the third Punic war. 

They first had recourse to the most flagrant per- 
fidy to disarm their enemies. The Carthaginians, 
having in vain solicited peace, determined to bury 
themselves under the ruins of their city. The 
consuls, Marcus and Manlius, soon appeared under 
the walls of Carthage. Before they commenced 
the siege, they performed two solemn ceremonies ; 
the evocation of the tutelar divinities from that 
city, and the devoting of the birth-place of Hanni- 
bal to the- infernal gods. — The consuls, however, 
were vigorously repulsed. The genius of Hanni- 
bal had revived in the besieged city. The wo- 
men cut off their hair and twisted it into cords for 
the bows and military engines. Scipio, the second 
Africanus, then served as a tribune in the Roman 
army. Some veterans, who had seen the first 
Scipio, were yet alive, and among the rest, the 
celebrated Masinissa. This Numidian monarch, 
more than eighty years of age, invited the youthful 
Scipio to his court, and it was upon the supposi- 
tion of his interview, that Cicero composed the 
beautiful passage of his Republic, known by the 
appellation of Scipio^s Dream. 

Scipio =^mi!ianus, appointed to the consulship 



BAY OF TUNIS. 199 

through the favor of the people, received orders 
to continue the siege of Carthage. He first sur- 
prized the lower town, which was called Megara, 
or Magara. He then attempted to block up the 
outer port by means of a mole ; but the Cartha- 
ginians opened another entrance to the harbor, 
and appeared at sea to the great astonishment of 
the Romans. They might have burned Scipio's 
fleet ; but the hour of Carthage was come, and 
confusion pervaded the councils of that unfortu- 
nate city. It was defended by one Asdrubal, a 
cruel man, who commanded thirty thousand mer- 
cenaries, and who treated the citizens with as 
much rigor as if they had been enemies. The 
winter having passed in the enterprises above- 
mentioned, Scipio, in the spring, attacked the inner 
port, denominated Colhon. Being soon master of 
the walls of this harbor, he pushed forward into 
the great square of the city. Three streets led 
from this square up a gentle declivity to the cita- 
del, known by the name of Byrsa. In the houses 
of these streets, the inhabitants defended them- 
selves with such obstinacy, that Scipio was obliged 
to besiege and reduce the houses one by one. 
This struggle lasted six days and six nights. One 
party of the Roman soldiers forced the retreat ol' 
the Carthaginians, while another was employed in 
removing with hooks the dead bodies that lay in 
heaps in the houses, or were tumbled into the 



200 JOURNAL OP A TOUR, &C. 

streets. Many of the living were thrown into the 
graves indiscriminately with the dead. On the 
seventh day, deputies appeared in the dress of 
supplicants ; they merely begged the lives of the 
citizens who had taken refuge in the citadel. 
Scipio granted their petition, excepting only from 
this favor, the Roman deserters who had gone over 
to the Carthaginians. Fifty thousand persons, 
men, women and children, were thus permitted to 
depart from Byrsa. On the most elevated part of 
the citadel stood a temple consecrated to Escula- 
pius. In this temple, the deserters, to the num- 
ber of nine hundred, entrenched themselves. 
They were commanded by Asdrubal, who had 
with him his wife and his two children. This des- 
perate body of men withstood for some time the 
efforts of the Romans ; but being driven by de- 
grees from the court of the temple, they shut 
themselves up in the temple itself. Asdrubal, im- 
pelled by the love of life, and secretly deserting 
his companions in misfortune — his wife and his 
children, went, with an olive branch in his hand, 
and threw himself at Scipio's feet. Scipio imme- 
diately ordered him to be shown to the deserters, 
who, boiling with fury, set fire to the temple, vent' 
ing the most horrible imprecations against Asdru- 
bal. 

When the flames began to issue from the edi- 
fice, a female, attired in her most sumptuous ap- 



BAY OP TUNIS. 201 

parel, made her appearance, holding two children 
by the hand. This was the wife of Asdrubal. 
She looked about among the enemy who sur- 
rounded the citadel, and recognizing Scipio, ' Ro- 
man,' cried she, * I pray not that heaven may 
wreak its vengeance upon thee ; thou foliowest 
only the laws of war : but mayest thou with the 
divinities of my country, punish the perfidious 
wretch who betrays his wife, his children, his 
country, and his gods ! As for thee, Asdrubal, 
Rome is already preparing the chastisement due 
to thy crimes. Unworthy chief of Carthage, go 
and be dragged at the chariot-wheels of thy con- 
queror, while this fire shall snatch me and my 
children from slavery.' With these words, she 
dispatched her children, thiew them into the 
flames, and precipitated herself after them. All 
the deserters followed her example. 

Thus perished the city of Dido, of Sophonisba, 
and Hannibal. Florus says, that some idea may 
be formed of the magnitude of this catastrophe, 
when it is known that the conflagration lasted 
seventeen whole days. Scipio shed tears for the 
fate of Carthage. At the sight of the flames con- 
suming a city once so flourishing, he reflected on 
the revolutions of empires, and repeated these 
verses of Homer, in allusion to the future destinies 
of Rome : * A time will come when the sacred 
17 



202 JOURNAL OF A TOUR, &C. 

walls of Ilion shall perish, together with the war- 
like Priam and all his people/ 

Corinth was destroyed in the same year as Car- 
thage ; and a youth of Corinth repeated, like 
Scipio, a passage in Homer, when he beheld his 
native city in ashes. Who, then, is this man, that 
is thus summoned by all antiquity to the fall of 
states, to the spectacle of the calamities of nations ; 
as if there could be nothing great or tragical with- 
out his presence, as if all human woes were under 
the protection and under the empire of the bard 
of Ilion and of Hector ? 

No sooner was Carthage destroyed, than an 
avenging deity seemed to rise from its ruins. The 
manners of Rome became depraved ; she began to 
be distracted by civil wars ; and this corruption 
and these broils commenced on the Punic shores. 
Scipio himself, the destroyer of Carthage, died by 
the hands of his relations ; the children of that 
Masinissa who contributed to the triumph of the 
Romans, slaughtered each other on the tomb of 
Sophonisba ; the possessions of Syphax enabled 
Jugurtha to seduce and to vanquish the descend- 
ants of Regulus. 

' O venal city,' ! exclaimed the African prince 
as he left the capitol. ' O city ripe for ruin, if 
thou meetest with a purchaser' ! Jugurtha soon 
afterwards obliged a Roman army to pass under 
the yoke, almost in sight of Carthage, and revived 



BAY OF TUNIS. 303 

the ignominious ceremony, as if to gratify the 
manes of Hannibal. Falling at length into the 
hands of the Romans, he lost his presence of 
mind amidst the triumphal pomp. The lictors 
stripped him, took the jewels from his ears, and 
threw him naked into a ditch, where this monarch 
justified to his last gasp what he had said concern- 
ing the rapacity of the Romans. 

The victory gained over the descendants of 
Masinissa, occasioned, however, that jealousy be- 
tween Marius and Sylla, which soon plunged 
Rome into mourning. Vanquished by his rival, 
the fugitive Marius sought an asylum beside the 
tombs of Hanno and Hamilcar. A slave of Sex- 
tilius, the prefect of Africa, brought Marius an 
order to quit the ruins which served him for a re- 
treat ; ' go, tell thy master, retorted the grim con- 
sul, ' that thou hast seen Marius, a fugitive, seated 
on the ruins of Carthage.' * Marius and Carthage,' 
said an historian and poet, * mutually reconciled 
each other to their fate ; and both having fallen, 
they forgave the gods.' 

At length the liberties of Rome expired at the 
feet of Carthage, destroyed and enslaved. The 
vengeance is complete ; a Scipio falls in Africa 
under the sword of Caesar, and his body is buffet- 
ed by those waves which bore the triumphal ships 
of his forefathers.' 

5 P. M. Weighed anchor, and having a fair 



204 JOURNAL OF A TOUR, &C. 

wind, filled away for Port Mahon. On leaving 
the bay and passing round Cape Carthage, had a 
melancholy view on our left, of the desolations of 
the city which once stood here, the rival and the 
envy of Rome. From our deck, were visible, in a 
dilapidated state, some of the massy columns of the 
ancient aqueducts — sad memorials of her former 
splendor. At 6 P. M. doubled the Cape, and laid 
our course for Minorca; fresh breeze — 7 to 11 
knots. 

Oct, 226?. FinCj bright morning ; wind continues 
fresh and fair. Since leaving the bay of Tunis, 
yesterday, our average progress has been 10 
knots ; fair prospect of seeing Mahon to-morrow 
morning. 

Oct, 23d, At break of day, made the island of 
Minorca ; Port Mahon bearing N. ; distant 10 
miles. With a good breeze, the Java entered the 
harbor and dropped anchor at 8 A. M. Here we 
find at anchor also, the Delaware, Com. Crane^ 
the Lexington, Capt, Hunter, and the Fairfield, 
Corvette, Capt. Parker. 

Though the passage from Vourla to this port 
has been uncommonly expeditious, being but 12 
days, our stops at Malta and Carthage included, 
yet it is mortifying to learn, that the present regu- 
lations of the port require twenty days quarantine, 
so that during that period, at least, I am pinned at 
Mahon, should ever so many vessels sail from 



PORT MAHON. 205 

hence in the mean time, for the United States, or 
for Gibraltar. But notwithstanding this discoura- 
ging circumstance, I am now satisfied that the 
course I decided upon at Smyrna, being but a 
choice of difficulties, was the best. Within an 
hour after the Java was moored in this snug har- 
bour, a change of weather was observable. The 
wind hauled and came on to blow from the N. E., 
attended with black clouds, sharp lightning and 
heavy peals of thunder. Had we been four hours 
later in our approach to the island, it would have 
been impossible for the ship to enter the harbour, 
but w^ould probably have been driven back to the 
coast of Africa. 



LETTER VL 

Port Mahon, Oct. 24th, 1828. 
Dear Sir, 
Cloudy boisterous morning. Wind blowing a 
gale from N. E., — thunder and drenching showers 
of rain. The reflection that we so narrowly 
escaped the present tempest, awakens sensations 
of joy and gratitude. Early this morning, and be- 
fore the storm had assumed so threatening an as- 
pect, the Lexington, by order of Com. Crane, was 
17* 



306 JOURNAL ar a totjr, &e. 

towed out and sailed for Smyrna. Some conceto 
for her safety is entertained. 

Had at dinner to day, among many other good 
things at table, fresh stringed beans ; the first I 
have tasted since the last year ; — desert, Sardini- 
an pears, with grapes and apples, the growth of 
this island — all of the richest quality. My health 
and appetite now being good, the plentiful sup- 
plies of eatables and drinkables on board the Java, 
afford me an opportunity to make up, in a good 
degree, for the ill health, privations and starva- 
tion of the past summer. This port, next to Smyr- 
na, is remarkable for the superior quality of meats 
and vegetables. The prices are reasonable. The 
great number of ships of war, as well as merchant 
vessels of different nations which stop here and 
perform quarantine, refit, &c. in addition to the 
time spent in the course of business and duty, ren- 
der Mahon a kind of common market place, where 
vast sums of money are expended, much to the 
advantage of the Mahonese. 

Oct, 25th, Clear, fine morning. To lessen the 
embarrassments of intercourse between the ship 
and the quarantine ground, several of the natives^ 
besides the sanidads (health officers) put them- 
selves into quarantine, and bring out ill boats, an 
abundance of all kinds of meats, fish, vegetables 
and fruits ; also carry on shore and wash clothes 
for the officers and men. The distressing sick- 



Pont MAtto]S\ , 20t 

liess, which, for sometime past has prevailed at 
Gibraltar and Marseilles, has so alarmed the Dons^ 
here, that they have added five days to the time 
of quarantine, usual at this port, and enjoined upon 
the sanidads the most rigid observance of all quar- 
antine regulations. 

Oct, '*ZQth, Sunday. From the inaction and dull- 
ness incident to quarantine confinement, 1 find 
great relief in perusing some American publica- 
tions of a moral and religious character, with 
which the library of Capt. D. is well furnished. 
* Home, sweet home' ! Every thing relating to 
Aome, is interesting to every American when in a 
foreign country. The cheering influence of the 
Java's band of music, deserves particular notice. 
It consists of fourteen men, all natives of Mahon. 
They play with all the skill, spirit and animation 
for which the Balearic islands and Italy are so 
justly admired. The officers of the ship have in- 
troduced some of the best pieces of Church mu- 
sic ; among which, and best of all, is Old Hun- 
dred, which, particularly on the Sabbath, is never 
omitted in the morning and evening exercise of the 
band. This old acquaintance of mine is never 
sounded here, without irresistibly drawing from 
my eyes a tribute of tears. It awakens reminis- 
cences of my youthful days, far gone by, and ele- 
vates the soul in feelings of devotion, at once im- 
pressive, solemn and sublime. The Rev. Mr. 



208 JOURNAL OP A TOUR, &C. 

Hayes, chaplain of the Java, being now on his 
travels in France, no pubUc religious exercises on 
board are performed. 

Oct, 27th. After breakfast, w^ent on shore, with 
Lieut. Saunders, Mr. Harris, the purser. Dr. Terril, 
and some other gentlemen, accompanied by a san- 
idad ; viewed the Lazaretto, &c. i^c. On this 
elevated ground, had a commanding prospect of 
Georgetown, Mahon, and their environs, and in the 
distance, of Monte Toro (Bull mountain), with the 
monastery, and other white buildings connected 
with it ; all which appear to great advantage. The 
monks of this establishment, which is on the summit 
of the mountain, like other holy men of the * holy 
CathoHc church,' in this region of the world, live 
comfortably, in their elevated station, enjoying 
many of the good things of this life, and are had in 
reverence of the good subjects of * his most Catho- 
lic majesty.' In the late revolution, as it is here 
called, their funds were secularized ; but are now 
restored, though not to the extent they were for- 
merly enjoyed. 

Leavmg the Lazaretto, we paid a visit to the 
Delaware, and had conversation with several of 
the officers of that superb ship. Comm. Crane 
being in ill health, we were disappointed of the 
pleasure of seeing him ; our vigilant sanidad not 
permitting us to go on board. Called also on the 
Congress, a fine brig from Boston, which came out 



i 



PORT MAHON. 209 

with naval stores, in company with the Fairfield. 
Had hopes of a passage in her to the U. States, 
but found she was to go first to St. Lucar, for a 
cargo of salt, and from thence, after a delay of 20 
or 25 days, the captain, at present, knew not 
whither. Although I enjoy good health, and * live 
as w^ell as heart could wish,' on board the Java, ex- 
periencing the utmost kindness and attention of 
Capt. D. and his oflicers, yet my solicitude to be 
in motion homeward^ is so great, that my present 
situation is not the most agreeable. 

Oct, 28tli, Went again this morning on shore, 
and spent an hour or two at the Lazaretto. The 
quarantine regulations made the present season by 
the Spanish government, are very embarrassmg to 
the American and all other vessels trading to the 
Spanish ports in the Mediterranean. 

There are now in this harbor, riding out quar- 
antine, five American brigs, with their cargoes, 
originally bound to Malaga, Barcelona, and other 
Spanish ports; all which have been obliged to come 
here to perform a quarantine of 20 days, before 
they can enter the ports of their destination. This 
costs them, back and forth, from 25 to 30 days 
sail, in addition to port charges, which are very 
considerable. The reason ottered for this, as I anj 
informed, is, that there is no other Spanish port in 
this sea, suitable and convenient for quarantine* 



210 JOURNAL OF A TOUR, &C. 

Mahon, otherwise poor, derives essential benefit 
from this circumstance. 

Oct, 29th. Had the curiosity to view a cameHon 
on board the ship, brought by the master of arms 
from Smyrna. A description of this singular ani- 
mal is unnecessary. In the course of the last night 
it laid 14 eggs, similar in form to the egg of the 
small turtle, and nearly an inch in length. 

At 1, P. M. Capt. D. informed me, he had just 
received an order from Com. Crane, to sail to- 
morrow for Algiers, with some despatches : expect- 
ing to return again to Mahon without delay, and 
here perform tlie remainder of his quarantine, of 
which 12 days are yet due. I immediately obtained 
a boat, and visited the American brigs in the har- 
bor, indulging a hope of obtaining a passage in 
some one of them, as far at least as Gibraltar ; 
but found they would all take pratique before the 
expiration of the Java's quarantine. This puts an 
end to all expectation of commencing my home- 
ward voyage for the next three or four weeks ; for 
should I go on board any other vessel here, before 
the expiration of the Java^s quarantine, this would 
subject that vessel to an additional quarantine. 
Under these untoward circumstances, I conclude 
to stick to the Java, and take a trip in her to 
Algiers. 

Oct. 30th. Early this morning, preparation waj5 
made to haul off — pilot sent for, anchor weighed. 



AT SEA. 211 

&c. There being several ships at anchor in this 
part of the harbor, it took more than an hour's time 
for the Java to work her vs^ay through, so as to be 
in a situation to hoist sail, and get under way. On 
entering the open sea, we found the wind fresh, but 
unfavorable and fluctuating, attended with a heavy 
and sickening swell. Through the afternoon, black 
clouds, thunder, lightning, and frequent squalls. 
These continued through the night with an increas- 
ing tempest. At 1 o'clock at night it appears by 
reckoning now made, that we have advanced on 
our course but 60 miles, having been out of harbor 
16 hours. 

Oct> 31.9/. Stormy, dark morning: wind fluctu- 
ating, and blowing a gale. The gratification of my 
desire to see Algiers, 1 now find will be dearly 
bought. But dangers surround us in every condi- 
tion through life ; and teach us to rely not upon 
our own strength, but upon the good providence 
of God. At 8 A. M. gale increases ; swells enor- 
mous : life-buoy lost overboard, the fastenings hav- 
ing given way by the rolling of the ship. 

This curious machine, lately constructed on 
board, was so contrived as to float, whatever the 
state of wind and weather. A lock was placed in 
it with a match and lamp, in such a manner, that 
when thrown overboard in the night, the lamp 
would be lighted up by the fire given by the stroke 



212 JOURNAL OF A TOUR, &C. 

of the lock, and would continue to burn, above the 
surface of the water, six or seven hours. 

At 2 P. M. wind began to moderate, clouds 
broke away, and swells lessened ; but an unplea- 
sant, sickening rolling of the ship continued through 
the night. About 2 in the night, according to the 
ship's reckoning, niade our longitude for Algiers, 
off about 30 miles. But this part of the Barbary 
coast being dangerous to approach, especially in 
the night, with the wind N. E. as it now is, we lay 
off, waiting for day light, which advanced very 
slowly. 

November IsL Off Algiers. At 7, A. M. made 
the coast of Barbary ; wind fair, a lively breeze, 
tacked ship, and stood in for the bay of Algiers. 
At 8, on Hearing the bay, and having a more dis- 
tinct view, found we had a little overrun our lon- 
gitude, and laid our course accordingly. At 9, 
rose up in prospect before us, the city of Algiers, 
that old and memorable nest of hornets. Wind 
brisk and fair, the Java proudly advanced toward 
the batteries at the foot of the city, in a style be- 
coming the reputation of our navy in this quarter; 
and having approached sufficiently near, hove to. 
The consular boat soon appeared, coming off with 
Mr. Hodgson, charge d' of airs, in the absence of 
Mr. Shaler, the American consul, and received 
the despatches from Com. Crane at the ship. The 
boat was manned with 12 Algerine oarsmen, with 



1 



BAY OF ALGIERS. 213 

two * turban'd Turks,' with their long grey beards, 
to add dignity to the transaction. The whole, with 
the exception of Mr.' H., were the most savage 
looking animals I ever beheld. The sea ran higli, 
and so tossed and surged the Algerine boat, that it 
was with some difficulty they could approach suf- 
ficiently near the ship to receive the budget, with- 
out endangering their boat and themselves. At 
length, Capt. J), tied the bundle of papers in a 
handkerchief, and threw it toward the boat ; but 
it fell short, and caused these children of Ishmael 
considerable trouble to fish it up. At first, I felt 
some apprehension of their drowning, but calling 
to mind the old proverb about hanging, I dismissed 
all my fears of their ever drowning. The wind 
blowing a stiff breeze directly inland, it became 
necessary, for the safety of the ship, either to an- 
chor immediately, or tack and stand off : the latter 
was adopted ; and at 2 P. M. we were under sail 
on our return passage toward Minorca. 

1 much regretted that I could not go on shore, 
and take a more leisurely and particular view of 
this formidable strong-hold. But in my present 
position, the tout ensemhle of the city, fortifications 
— the Dey's town and country palaces and gardens, 
were seen to greater advantage than a nearer sta- 
tion could have afforded . 

The city appears to be of a triangular form, the 
shortest side of which is bounded by the sea. It 
18 



214 JOURNAL OT A TOl/R, SlC. 

rises from the water side to a great eminence, and 
the apex is crowned by one of the Dey's^ palaces. 
The city is so compactly built, and the streets so 
narrow, that, in the distance, it has the appearance 
of one entire, connected building, of immense mag- 
nitude ; all in the oriental style, flat roof^, and 
white-washed or painted. 

At 3 P. M. cleared the W. entrance of the bay. 
At 4, discovered^ two French frigates over our 
starboard bow, distant four miles. We took them 
to be part of the French squadron now employed 
in blockading Algiers, lying off at present, on ac« 
count of the rough weather. One of them tacked 
and stood toward the Java as intending to hail ; 
but on the Java hoisting her colors, the Frenchman 
stood away and joined her consort. It is hoped 
that this blockading squadron is but a prelude to 
something more efficient. Though the front of 
the city of Algiers at the water's edge is a continu- 
ed rampart, well mounted with cannon and deemed 
impregnable, yet the Algerines, like Achilles, are 
vulnerable in the heel. If I am rightly informed, 
their principal defence, on the rear of the city, is a 
single fortress, fort Emperor. In the strength of 
this garrison, they place great confidence. 

It is confidently believed, by those military mcQ 
who are best acquainted with the situation of Al- 
giers, that a well disciplined army of Europeans, 
might, under the protection of an armed fleet, land 



AT SEA. 215 

m the vicinity of the city, and by a rapid and cir- 
cuitous march, advance to fort Emperor, and by a 
vigorous assault, carry the fortress. This done, the 
way would be open to march in and take up the 
whole hivey with all the honey this piratical banditti 
have for so many years been laying up ; the avails 
of tribute, robbery, and ransom. 

Head wind, frequent and powerful squalls, with 
heavy swells, continued through the night* 

Nov. 2d, Off' Algiers. At 5 this morning, two 
strange vessels of large size were discovered over 
our larboard quarter, apparently bearing down 
upon us, and within cannon-shot distance. It was 
yei too dark to distinguish flags on either side. 
Capt. D. expected to be hailed by them, but that 
not being done, ordered the drum to beat *to 
quarters.' The immediate stir and bustle was as- 
tounding through the ship. Within six minutes 
both decks were cleared, the hammocks all stowed, 
and every thing in readiness for action. The 
strange ships silently passed on, within pistol shot, 
and very civilly left us to put up our artillery at 
our leisure. As soon as it was sufficiently light, 
we perceived them to be the same two French 
frigates we saw yesterday. 4 P. M. head wind 
continuing, we are yet in sight of Algiers, about 
25 miles distant. Our French neighbors-in-law 
still hang about us, under reefed top-sails. 

Nov. 4tk. About 12 last night, a light wind 



•216 JOURNAL OF A TOUR, &LC, 

sprang up, and after vacillating an hour or twa^ 
settled down again, N. E. At sun-rise this morn- 
ing, we found by observation, that during the calm^ 
the ship had drifted by the current, at least 10 
miles toward the Barbary coast, which is yet in 
plain view from our deck ; so that we are now at 
a greater distance from Mahon than we were yes- 
terday morning. The ship being heavy, and but a 
dull beater, we make little progress this day. It 
is a matter, however^ of some consolation to the 
mariner, w^hen a head wind prevails, that any 
change must be for the better. 

Nov. 6th. At day-break, made the Cabrea (goat)^ 
a small rocky island, about 9 miles S. of Majorca* ; 
Upon the first sight of Cabrea, we were within 
musket shot distance of it ; and had not the shore 
been bold, and the water deep, our ship would 
have been in some danger, the weather being thick 
and dark. The S. coast of Majorca is also in plain 
view, nearly the whole length of that island. The '■ 
wind having again settled down into the old cor« 
ncr, we had no other resource but that of beating, 
by w^hich we advance but slowly toward Mahon, 
yet distant 85 miles. At 11 P. M. the wind haul- 
ed into the E. S. E. and with a fresh breeze enabled 
us to lay our course directly for Mahon : 7 to 9 
knots. 

Nov. 7th. Daylight presente.d to our view Monte 
Toro and the S. coast of Minorca ; Rabbit island 



PORT MAHON. 217 

being but four miles distant from us. The Java, 
with a fine breeze gracefully moved in, and drop- 
ped anchor near the Delaveare, at half past 8 A. 
M. having been absent on her tour to Algiers ex- 
actly eight days. She has yet 10 days of quaran- 
tine to perform ; the Dons refusing to allow us 
any credit for our 8 days absence. We are happy 
to learn by an American brig just arrived from 
New York, which on her way touched at Gibraltar, 
that the sickness at ' the rock,' had, in a great de- 
gree, abated ; that now but 16 or 17 was the aver- 
age number of deaths daily. 

Nov, 8tk. JPort Mahon. Bright and pleasant 
morning. The state and temperature of the air 
here, is the most agreeable, that can be imagined 
at any season of the year and in any country. 
Went on shore, and again visited the Lazaretto. 
This noble establishment covers about 35 acres of 
ground, inclosed by a beautiful wall of grey stone, 
30 to 40 feet in height, w^ith folding doors or gates 
on each of the four sides. Within, there are par- 
tition walls, of the same materials and height, run- 
ning at right angles with each other, inclosing many 
elegant court yards, and promenades of various 
lengths, from 10 to 25 rods, and in width from 50 
to 100 feet : in several of these are gardens, taste- 
fully laid out, in whfch are cultivated a great va- 
riety of beautiful flower shrubs, and ornamental 
trees. These gardens are irrigated by water con- 

18^ 



218 JOURNAL OF A TOUR, &C« 

ducted by subterranean aqueducts intopontanos or ^ 
reservoirs ; and from them distributed in small 
channels to every part of the garden. 

It is said to contain within the outer walls, 141 
lodging chambers, seven magazines, two infirma- 
ries, with all the accommodations suitable to such 
an establishment. I took great satisfaction in 
viewing many of the chambers, gardens, &c. 
Every thing here has the appearance of cleanliness ^ 
and comfort. The whole was built by the Span- 
iards, at an immense expense of money and labor, 
and does honor to the Spanish nation. 

The harbor of Mahon, for convenience and safe- 
ty, is said to be second to none in the world. The 
entrance is narrow, and easily defended ; on the 
west side of which stood the strong fortress of St» 
Philip, built in the time of Charles V. This ' se- 
cond Gibraltar,' formerly so called, was blown up 
by order of the Spanish government in 1783, pur- 
suant to a stipulation in their treaty with England, 
and is now in ruins. The length of this harbor is 
two and a half miles, its breadth, varying from half 
to a quarter of a mile, indented with coves on each 
side, -deep water, and good holding ground through- 
out : the whole inclosed by a natural wall of lime- 
stone rock, from 6 to 20 feet high above the water, 
and appears like mason wdrk. Five islands, or 
islets, strung along, at convenient distances from 
each other, and near the middle line of the harbor, 



PORT MAHON. 219 

are covered by naval arsenals, ware-houses, hospi- 
tals, dock-yards, &c. &lc. The shores of all these 
islets are so bold, that the largest ships ride at the 
water's edge. The Americans, French and Dutch, 
have naval depots here, many of whose ships winter 
in this port, which serves as a kind of rendezvous 
for them at all seasons of the year. 

Ncjv. 9th. This charming morning reminds me 
of a clear and serene New England May morning ; 
and awakens sensations which serve to render me 
somewhat unquiet in my present condition ; and 
yet there are attending circumstances of a charac- 
ter calculated to remove gloomy impressions. 
Within a few cables' length from the Java, are now 
at anchor, the Delaware and the Fairfield ; the 
American colors proudly waving at their mast 
heads, in the immediate presence of a French line- 
of-battle ship, of 74 guns, a Dutch admiral ship, 
and several other armed vessels : all within a com- 
pass so small, that all the bands of music of the 
several ships are distinctly heard by each other. 
A reciprocity of national airs, so readily played by 
all these bands, serves to cherish and keep alive 
that good feeling which now exists among the offi- 
cers and men of these different nations. It is also 
pleasant and animating to see the scores of beauti- 
fully painted sail-boats of the native islanders con- 
stantly gliding about among the ships in this smooth 
and delightful harbor. This is their way of riding 



220 JOtTRNAL OP A TOUR, &C. 

out, and taking an airing, in lieu of coaching. These 
parties of pleasure, together with those persons 
necessarily employed in the intercourse between 
the ships and the citizens, supplying the former 
with provisions, fruit, &c., makes the water-scene, 
of a pleasant day, lively and interesting. 

The number of Americans belonging to the ships 
of war now here is about 1750; French and Dutch, 
about 2000 : in addition to which, are 35 or 40 
merchant vessels, of different nations. These af- 
ford a ready and fine market for the islanders. 

The small acquaintance I have with the order 
and rules observed on board ships of war, prevents 
me from attempting to say much about them. But 
I will notice some of them which have come with- 
in my own observation, particularly on the Sab- 
bath, and have been put in practice this day. Half 
an hour before day, the men were all ' turned out,' 
hammocks stowed away in the nettings as usual. 
Then commenced the work of scouring decks 
with flat stones, called ' holy stones,' mops and 
brushes. This occupied an hour. The next thing 
was coiling up and adjusting all the ropes on the 
decks — snugging up the loose rigging about the 
masts, spars, dkc. ; then breakfast ; after which, 
scouring all the brass, copper, and iron about the 
guns, windlass, binnacle, wheels, railings and gang- 
way, not forgetting the spit boxes — hoisting out 
the boats and Captain's gig, for the necessary 



PORT MAHON. 221 

communications through the day ; washing, comb- 
ing, shaving, shifting hnen, or woollen, as the case 
may be — brushing hats, coats, vests, and panta- 
loons ; blacking boots and shoes — and indeed 
overhauling the whole dress : so that every man, 
of whatever grade or station, was sufficiently clad 
and cleanly to appear at church or in any public 
assembly. I could not but observe among the 
men a cheerfulness and kind feeling which this 
sleeking up seemed to inspire. 

By English newspapers of Sept. 7th, arrived 
yesterday in an American brig, last from Gibral- 
tar, it appears, that the sickness at the rock has 
in a great degree abated, and the alarm subsided ; 
but by other and more recent intelligence, the 
deaths there are yet 17 or 18 daily. 

Nov. \Qth. Mahon. It is understood on board 
this morning, that Com. Crane goes on board the 
Fairfield to day, and sails directly for Tunis, and 
from thence to Smyrna, where he expects to win-^ 
ter ; that his orders to the Java are, that after the 
expiration of her quarantine, she go to Toulon, 
with the purser, Mr. M., to procure money for the 
Mediterranean squadron, and then repair to Smyr-? 
na. Whether I continue on board till her arrival 
at Toulon, depends on the good or ill success I 
may have in my endeavors to procure a passage 
to the U. S., Gibraltar, or England. At 2 P. M. 
Com. Crane went on board the Fairfield, hoisted 



222 JOURNAL OF A TOUR, Sit. 

his broad pendant and received her salute of thir- 
teen guns. At the same instant, the pendant of 
the Delaware was dropped. 

Nov. lltL Mahon, Another N. England May 
morning. A brace of woodcocks was brought on 
board by the captain's steward, I was surprised 
in observing the difference between this and the 
American cock. The former is double the size 
of the latter. The beak not as long by an inch ; 
the black bars on the head, not so bold and distin- 
guishable ; the two forward quills of each wing 
are clothed with as much feather as the other 
wing quills. I could perceive no essential differ- 
ence in the flavor or taste of this delicious bird. 
It is here as well as at the other Belearic islands, 
a bird of passage ; and has just begun to make its 
appearance here for the present season. ,They 
continue here through the winter months in great 
plenty, and afford the finest sport. I hope to have 
an opportunity of making some further acquaint- 
ance with them. 

Nov. V2th. Took a boat after breakfast, and 
spent the principal part of the day, calling upon 
the several American vessels now at anchor here : 
hoping, by some of them, to obtain a passage home- 
ward : but returned to the ship with no better 
prospect than when I left it in the morning. 

Nov. \'5th. Received information this morning 
that the brig Ann, Capt, Eldridge, from Philadel- 



PORT MAHON. S23 

phia, now in this harbor, on quarantine, is expect- 
ed to sail for Malaga within a few days. I imme- 
diately procured a boat and a sanadad., called at 
the brig, and upon enquiry, found she was calcu- 
lating to sail in six or seven days. I engaged a 
passage in her, in preference to going to Toulon 
in the Java. 

Nov. \4:th» The weather yet continues warm 
and pleasant. The climate here is most inviting. 
Every thing on land wears the appearance of a 
summer month. We have daily at dinner an 
abundance of the finest fresh grapes. Fish are 
also very plentiful and of an excellent quahty, 
especially their salmano. One kind of their shell- 
fish deserves particular mention. It is called the 
date fish, on account of the resemblance its bears 
in its form to that fruit. It is found only in masses 
of limestone rock, at and near the edge of the 
sea ; and is procured by breaking up the rock 
with a heavy iron hammer. The fish or oyster is 
inclosed in a thin delicate shell like that of a mus- 
cle, and is from two to five inches in length, and 
from half an inch to an inch and a half in thick- 
ness, deposited in a smooth mould or cavity from 
three to twelve inches within the surface of the 
rock. The shell in no part, as far I could disco- 
ver, adheres to the rock ; neither does there ap- 
pear any aperture or fissure by which water or 
any other substance could be conveyed to the 



224 JOURNAL OF A TOUR, ifec. 

domicil of this home bred tenant. This fish is es- 
teemed a great delicacy, and is sold at a great 
price, on account of the difficulty and labor of pro- 
curing it. To gratify curiosity, I procured a ham^ 
mer and broke out a few of them ; but soon found 
the labor greater than the profit. 

Nov. 1 5th. Have the pleasure to learn this 
morning that the brig Ann is now re-loading her 
cargo of cocoa at the Lazaretto, and is expected 
to sail for Malaga on Tuesday next ; — that Lieut. 
Saunders, and Mr. Harris, of the Java, having ob- 
tained leave of absence, have also engaged a pas- 
sage in the same brig. The Java takes pratique 
to-morrow, and is to sail for Toulon within three 
or four days. I expect therefore to have two or 
three days to enjoy a little more free locomotion 
on shore, after a confinement on shipboard of 37 
days. I have great reason to be thankful, that 
amidst all my disappointments, an opportunity 
seems now to be presented by which I may ad- 
vance, at least one step further, on my way toward 
home. 

Nov. 16th. The Java having obtained pratique 
at 8 this morning, I went on shore into the city, 
accompanied by Mr. Goldsborough and several 
other young gentlemen, midshipmen. After walk-' 
ing through several streets, we entered the princi- 
pal church, during the performance of divine ser- 
vice. This church is remarkable for the profu- 



PORT OP MAHON. 225 

sion of its gilding and paintings, as well as for its 
organ, which is said to be inferior to none in the 
world, except that of Haerlem. I was charmed 
with the music, the sounds of which, on our en- 
trance into the porch of the cathedral, were like 
those of the human voice. The streets are re- 
markably clean and neat, paved principally with 
flint stone, and, though not wide, are straight, and 
appear well. The mhabitants are industrious and 
civil ; yet a multitude of beggars of both sexes 
and ail ages are met in the streets, particularly 
about their churches. The population of Mahon 
is variously estimated from 20,000 to 25,000, of 
which the priests form no inconsiderable portion, 
and are as thick as * toads after a rain.' 

Some days since, Capt. D. employed ten or 
fifteen Malionese caulkers, who are excellent work- 
men at that business. Being desirous to finish 
that work as soon as possible, and the weather 
now being fine, Mr. N. the first Lieut, enquired of 
them yesterday, whether they were willing to 
continue their labor through the Sabbath. They 
replied — they had no objection as it related to 
their consciences, but if they should work, they 
should be compelled, each of them, to pay the 
priest, as an atonement, $20,00. Mr. N. thought 
the price too great, and dismissed them till Mon- 
day. This is one among the many corruptions of 
the Romish church. Every sin has its fixed price 

19 



226 JOURNAL OF A TOUR^ &e^ 

of pardon. It is not strange therefore, that the- 
stupid ignorance in which most of them hve and 
die, should lead them into the indulgence of any 
sin, from the punishment of which, money will 
protect and exonerate them. The present de- 
plorable condition of the Spanish government, has,. 
in a great measure, grown out of the abuses and 
corruptions of their reHgion. It is ascertained 
that one third part of all the real and personal 
property of that kingdom is owned by ecclesias- 
tics ; hence it is easy to conceive the immense 
influence which the priests are able to exert over 
the people of this enslaved country. 

On my return to the ship, took a view of the 
navy-yard, and of the upper harbor. Several 
French and Dutch ships are now at anchor here, 
where a large fleet might be moored with perfect 
safety. 

Nov. I7th. Pratique for the ship having been 
obtained yesterday morning, the ship's crew were 
permitted according to custom, to receive on 
board this evening, their friends and acquaintance 
from shore, for a little ' merry making.' This 
ship having often been in this harbor and spent 
considerable time here in the course of service 
in the Mediterranean, many acquaintances were 
formed between the crew and the islanders, in 
their intercourse with each other — purchasing 
provisions, clothing, &c. So that pratique is con- 



PORT MAHON. 25J7 

«Mered among them a kind of jubilee. In con- 
versation with Capt. D. on the subject of this prac- 
tice, he observed, it was impossible to avoid it 
without the certainty of incurring a gi-eater evil ; 
that if his men should be denied this privilege, 
they would steal away in the night, swim on shore, 
and resort to houses where they would find the 
TTieans of intoxication ; that quarrelling and blood- 
shed would ensue, as had often been the case, and 
particularly when they came in contact with the 
crews of ships belonging to other nations ; that it 
was an established custom among ships of war at 
• this and other maratime ports, and that under all 
these circumstances it would be difficult, if not 
impossible to prevent it, consistently with the 
peace and safety of the ship. 

Nov. I8th. A fresh breeze from the S. blowing 
directly into the harbor, prevents the Java from 
sailing this day for Toulon, as was expected. I 
learn also, that the brig Ann, by reason of some 
delay in obtaining her necessary papers, will not 
sail for Malaga till to-morrow. At 10 A. M. went 
on shore accompanied by Mr. Robinson, school- 
master of the Java, and Mr. Goldsborough. We 
landed our boat at the scite of fort St. Philip, and 
viewed the ruins of this once formidable fortress. 
This garrison occupied a space of at least three 
miles in circuit, of which but Httle is now left 
above the surface of the ground, except a few 



228 JOURNAL OP A TOUK, &C. 

sombre stone buildings occupied by a small guard 
of Spanish soldiers. The subterranean excava- 
tions in the solid rock, which were but partially 
destroyed by the explosion of the works, yet re- 
main to astonish the traveller. Many of these are 
more than 100 feet in length, vaulted by arches- 
varying in height from 20 to 40 feet, and in width 
from 25 to 35 feet ; lighted by square apertures 
or embrasures, opening to other central rooms of 
the same description. Between each of these 
rooms, is a row of pillars or columns chiseled out 
of the natural rock, about 4 feet square, ornament- 
ed with regular pedestals, mouldings and capitals^ 
and appear to sustain the immense mass of super- 
incumbent roofs. These excavations, from 20 to 
75 feet below the surface of the earth, are carried 
in different directions more than a mile in length. 
Over a considerable part of them^ fields of groun(J 
are now cultivated and sown with wheat, barley 
and other crops. On others we saw herds of cat- 
tle feeding. It is affirmed by those best acquainted 
here, that these subterranean abcxJes are suflScient- 
ly capacious to lodge all the present inhabitants of 
Mahon and Georgetown. Viewing these ruins^ 
and contemplating the vast expense of time* 
money and labor bestowed here and at the Laza-. 
retto, the adage so well known in Europe, forcibly 
struck my mind : — ' The Spaniards for buildings 
the French for taking, the English for holding/ 



PORT MAHON. 229 

On our return, called upon the Ann, viewed her 
t:abin and other accommodations. At 3 P. M. the 
Dutch and French ships in this harbor, together 
with the Java, saluted with 21 guns each, in honor 
of the birth day of her majesty the queen of the 
Netherlands, sister of Nicholas, Emperor of Rus- 
sia. To say the least of these illustriobs person- 
ages, they made considerable noise in this part of 
the world, and for two or three hours especially. 

Nov. I9th. By the politeness of Lieut. Ramage, 
now, in the absence of Com. Crane, first officer of 
the Delaware, and who breakfasted this morning 
on board the Java, went with him in one of the 
Delaware's boats, and took a view of that * noble 
vessel,' said by competent judges to be inferior to 
none now floating on water in any part of the world. 
After spending an hour, admiring the majesty, good 
order, and cleanliness of this floating castle, Lieut. 
R. kindly sent the same boat to convey me and my 
baggage on board the brig Ann, which is expected 
to sail for Malaga this evening or to morrow morn- 
ing. At 4 P. M. Messrs. Harris and Saunders 
came on board, with their trunks and other bag- 
gage, in one of the boats of the Delaware, and ac- 
companied by Lieut. R., who obligingly assisted 
with his men, to get up the Ann's anchor, and haul 
her off' from the mole. At 5 P. M. under sail, and 
with a fair breeze came out of the harbor of Mahon. 
19* 



330 JOURNAL OP A TOUR, &C. 

The brig being small, (150 tons) and sailing di- 
rectly before the wind, tumbled and rolled to such 
a degree, that I had but an uncomfortable night : 
not having sufficient room to sling my cot, took my 
lodging in one of the state rooms. 

In taking leave of the Java this morning, I found 
it difficult to suppress the emotions awakened in 
my mind by that deep sense of gratitude 1 felt for 
the kindness and attentions I had received from 
Capt. Downes and his officers, while on board that 
ship. My obligation to them is strengthened by 
the consideration of the peculiar situation in which 
they found me at Smyrna. Indeed, it is but justice 
to remark, in this place, that the officers of our 
navy, in the Mediterranean service, and, as far as I 
am acquainted, elsewhere, are greatly distinguished 
for their urbanity and gentlemanly deportment, 
and are highly respected among all those with 
v^rhom they have become acquainted in the East. 

Nov. 20th, At 2 P. M. made Formentaria, a 
small island, lying a little S.'of Ivica. Had a fine 
run through the day and night, average 8 knots. 

Nov. 2lst, At 7 A. M. off Cape Pales. At 2 
P. M. made Cape de Gatt, bearing N. N. W. dis- 
tant 30 miles ; serene and bright evening ; full 
moon : average progress, the last 24 hours, 7 knots, 

Nov, 22d. Enjoyed, through the day, a most 
sublime and animating view of the bold and ^cloud 
capp'd' mountains of Andalusia and Grenada^ 



MALAGA. 231 

their summits covered with snow. 3 P. M. off 
Velez Malaga, and at 5, arrived at Malaga, exactly 
three days from Port Mahon. 



LETTER VII. 

Malaga, Nov. 23d, 1828. 
Dear Sir, 
Before we had dropped our anchor, was invited 
on shore by Messrs. George and William Read ; 
two young gentlemen from Philadelphia, brothers, 
and now merchants here. Landed in company 
with Capt. Eldridge, and Messrs. Harris and 
Saunders. Called and paid our respects to the 
American consul, Mr. Barrell. Received great 
attention and civility, both from Messrs. Reads and 
the consul. Dined, by invitation, with the former 
gentlemen, in whose company and that of the con- 
sul, spent the evening. .Capt. E. Messrs. S. and 
H. and myself, took lodgings at a respectable hotel 
nestt the Alameda, kept by signor Don Colerado, 
In the course of the afternoon, walked with Mr. G. 
Read, through several streets of the city — viewed 
the exterior of the great Cathedral church, and sev- 
eral Moorish buildings, towers, walls, and castles, 
all of which, except the church, are in a dilapidated 



SSS JOURNAL Of A TOUR, StC. 

state. Invited by the consul to dine with him to- 
morrow, in company with Capt. E. Mn H. and 
Mr. S. 

Walking at 6 o'clock, this evening, on the Ala- 
meda, where two or three thousand people were en- 
gaged in the same exercise, at the sound of a bell, 
all stopped instantly, took off their hats, and stood 
about a minute in silent prayer, conformably to a 
rite in the Romish church, thanking God for the 
mercies of the past day. Every one then putting 
on his hat, bid those about him, * good night ;' the 
evening being now ended and the night commen- 
ced. This done, all continued walking as before. 

This beautiful promenade is, by my pacing, 1180 
feet in length, and 180 in breadth, in three divisions, 
a little elevated in the centre, deck-wise, covered 
with a fine, soHd gravel ; a border on each side, 
tastefully ornamented with flower shrubbery, in- 
termixed with marble statuary and seats ; all of 
excellent workmanship. 

At the west end is a large reservoir, covered by 
a building, on the east side of which is painted 
Neptune, holding his trident, and mounted on two 
sea-horses, floundering through the billows of the 
ocean. Within this building is a wheel, by which 
the water is raised, and from thence conducted in 
pipes under ground to the east end of the Alameda, 
and there thrown by jets d^eau into a marble 
fountain of exquisite workmanship. There are 



MALAGA. 233 

several other marble fountains within the city^ 
which are a great accommodation to the inhabit- 
ants. 

At 8, this evening, while sitting with the Messrs. 
Reads, at their house, a small, sharp sounding bell 
was heard at the porch of their front door. Mr, 
G. R. mformed me, that this was a call for money 
to be given in charity, to hire the priests to say 
mass for departed souls in purgatory ; that every 
night through the year, this call was punctually 
made at the door of every house, by men appoint- 
ed to that service, in the several districts, the eccle- 
siastics only excepted ; that in this way large 
sums were annually collected, which went into the 
pockets of these holy padres- He assured me it 
was a common thing here, that when a considera- 
ble number of persons had recently lost friends^ 
but were too poor severally to hire a priest to say 
mass foptheir departed souls, they joined together, 
and made up a lottery, paying a piaster (about seven 
cents,) for a ticket. By the scheme of this lottery, 
there is but one prize ticket ; the fortunate holder 
of that, is enabled, by these means, to purchase a 
mass for the soul of his departed friend, while all 
the others are left without any such benefit. This 
is one method among innumerable others, by which 
the priests obtain wealth and influence. How of- 
ten have I had occasion, since I left the U. S. to 
think and speak of * our free and happy country," 
* Ubi bene, ibi patria,' 



234 JOURNAL OP A TOUR, &C. 

Malaga, Nov. 2ith, Walked an hour before 
breakfast, on the Alameda. After dinner with Mr. 
B. the consul, went through all the tedious and 
vexatious rules and ceremonies of custom house 
regulations to land our baggage. Spent the even- 
ing at Mr. R.'s, in a circle of * social fellows/ 
principally Americans. Encouraged with a pros- 
pect of obtaining a passage to the U. States, in the 
ship Factor, Capt. Floyd, who expects to sail from 
hence within 15 or 20 days. The leisure I now 
have affords me opportunity to insert a short his- 
torical account of the city. 

Malaga, a small, but very ancient city of Spain, 
in the province of Grenada, was built by the Phoe- 
nicians several centuries before the Christian era, 
and was called * Malasha/ on account of the great 
quantities of salt fish sold here. In process of time 
it passed successively under the dominion of the 
Carthaginians, Romans, Goths, and Moors. That 
it was a place of importance under the Romans? 
may be inferred from the wrecks of monuments 
discovered in its vicinity. Some of the remains 
which have been found on the eminences where 
the light-house is placed, and where the castle 
called by the Moors * Gibrol-faro,' stands, have 
been thought to have belonged to a magnificent 
pharos, or perhaps a temple, built on the spot by 
the Romans. It was not till the year 1487, that 
Ferdinand and Isabella recovered Malaga, after an 



MALAGA. 235' 

obstinate resistance, from the dominion of the 
Moors. 

It is situated on the north coast of the Mediter- 
ranean, at the bottom of a deep bay, on a soil of 
slate and limestone. To the south, it has the sea : 
to the west, it opens into a fertile plain, watered by 
two rivers ; and to the east and north it is protect- 
ed by lofty mountains, the tops of which are some- 
times covered with snow, and the sides with olive, 
almond, orange and lemon trees, and vineyard 
grounds. 

The town cannot be called handsome, though 
the houses are high : the streets are narrow, ill- 
paved, and dirty. It has no public square ; it has, 
however, a marble fountain, very finely executed, 
which was a present from the republic of Genoa to 
Charles First. 

The population of Malaga is now about 85,000. 
Of the buildings, public or private, the one more 
particularly worthy of notice is the Cathedral, 
begun in the year 1528, and not yet finished. It 
is 360 feet by 180, and is 135 in height. The 
choir, in this edifice, is admirable, on account of its 
carved work, which represents, in very bold relief, 
the twelve apostles, and the most distinguished 
saints. 

The port of this town is large and secure. It 
has water for first rate ships of the line, and holds 
400 merchantmen and 19 men of war. Ships may 



236 JOURNAL OF A TOUR, &C. 

sail in and out with every wind, and are well shel- 
tered in the harbor. 

Malaga has considerable trade, particularly with 
England and America. It consists of broadcloths 
and iron- ware which it takes from the English ; of 
mercery goods from Germany, and more especial- 
ly from Hamburg ; spices, cutlery, tapes and laces 
from Holland. It furnishes these countries, as well 
as Italy and the northern nations with wine, fruits, 
sumac, anchovies and oil. Its exportation of wine 
alone amounts to 400,000 quintals yearly, and that 
of raisins 250,000 quintals. 

The soil in thfe vicinity of this city is fertile and 
well cultivated, producing great quantities of wheat, 
and all sorts of grain ; olive trees are abundant, 
supplying 500 oil presses in this district alone. 
Fruit trees, such as the almond, fig and lemon, are 
also very plentiful. The number of vineyards is 
immense : and they yield grapes of different species 
and of delicate quality. About 300,000 quintals 
are dried annually ; 750,000 quintals of wine are 
made yearly. Ih the district of Malaga there are 
14,000 wine-presses, chiefly employed in making 
the rich wines, which, from the nature of the coun- 
try, are called mountain. 

The inhabitants, blended with many foreigners, 
and occupying a most beautiful country, in a mild 
climate, and under a fine sky, are lively, industri- 
ous, and active. The men are polite and prepos- 



MALAGA. 237 

sessing ; the women, lively, gay, and alluring, are 
accounted the most agreeable in Spain. 

Nov. 25th. Walked this morning through the 
fruit and vegetable markets, vv^hich are supplied 
with a profusion of those luxuries for which this 
jfine climate is distinguished. Oranges, lemons, 
sugar cane, fresh grapes, raisins, figs, almonds, let- 
tuce, celery, onions, apples, pears, melons, cabba- 
ges, beets, carrots, pomegranates, egg plant, toma- 
toes, chesnuts, quinces, hazlenuts, and many other 
vegetables, among which are several, not known in 
New England. Sweet potatoes, of an excellent 
quality are abundant in these markets. I counted 
sixteen full cartloads of this article in one train 
coming into market, drawn by oxen of the finest 
form and size, in a high state of flesh, all harnessed 
without bows, but with an abundance of tassels 
and other ornaments attached to their heads. ■ In 
the flesh market are sold by women, sausages, 
brains, and the offal, of different animals. The 
fish-market is also well supplied with a great vari- 
ety of excellent fish. 

By the polite attention of Mr. Relf, an English 
gentleman from Yorkshire, I walked with him, af- 
ter breakfast, into the fine level country lying west 
of the city, between the two small rivers which 
empty into the sea about four miles distant from 
each other. Between these rivers is a flat of four 
miles in width, and seven or eight in length, for- 
20 



238 JOURNAL OF A TOUR, &;C. 

merly covered by the sea. The high road to Gib-- 
raltar, distant 75 miles, lies through this extensive 
plain, all of which is a soil of the richest quality. 
The lots are of various dimensions, from 10 
acres to 300 acres each, and are bordered by deep 
and broad trenches, on the banks of which are 
thick hedges of prickly pear of immense growth, or 
of cane ; and are from six to ten feet broad, and 
from twelve to fifteen feet high. These fields are 
interspersed with farm-houses, and elegant gardens, 
tastefully laid out, with pontanos and aqueducts to 
irrigate them through the dry season. On these 
grounds are raised, wheat, barley, maize^ sweet 
potatoes, flax, hemp, oats, oranges, citrons, lemons, 
peaches and apples, with all kinds of garden vege- 
tables. On some of these fields, the farmers are 
now sowing and ploughing in their wheat. In oth- 
ers, the wheat is at this time a foot high, very thick 
and flourishing. We passed over several lots, 
where scores of the peasants were digging their 
sweet potatoes. They first cut and carry off* the 
haum, which they feed out to their oxen, mules, 
jacks, and goats. In one view, we counted up- 
wards of one hundred yokes of cattle, ploughing in 
wheat. Nearly one third part of these teams ,J 
were composed of heifers yoked together, of a good 
size, beautiful form and large growth. The oxen 
are the handsomest and best formed of any I ever 
saw ; all of them good beef. Their ploughs are the 



MALAGA. 239 

most wretchedly constructed things imaginable. 
The beam, body, and handle, are formed of the 
natural crooks of a tree, nosed with a pointed shield 
of iron or steel, which roots up a furrow four or 
five inches deep, ten inches broad, and lays the 
mould equally on each side. No chain connected 
with the plough is used. The beam reaches to the 
yoke, and is lashed to it by a cord. They plough 
back and forth on the saftie side, without marking 
out lands or stetches. As they usually employ on 
these grounds from ten to fifteen ploughs, with a 
yoke of oxen to each, they mark out their work 
by running a plough from end to end of the field in 
the form of a semicircle. They commence by 
placing the whole of the teams on the curved line ; 
when the forward team arrives at the end of the 
piece, they all wheel about and return on the same 
line. In this mode, the increase of the fiirrows in 
the middle of the piece is in proportion to the width 
of the middle to that each way toward the ends, 
so that no short furrows are made. 

On seeing their oxen work, both with the cart 
and the plough, I am fully convinced the Spanish 
method of harnessing oxen is preferable to ours. 
They use no bows ; the draught is applied to the 
head, that part of the ox where his greatest strength 
lies ; there is no pressure, therefore, by the bow on 
any part of the neck, to impede the free circula- 
tion of the blood, nor render the neck sore by 



240 JOURNAL OF A TOUR, &C. 

pinching or chafing. A broad band of leather, 
padded and quilted, is brought round the forehead, 
filling the space between the eyes and the horns, 
and fastened to the yoke by staples and buckles. 
The length, form, and size of the yoke is much 
like ours, but in fastening the tongue of their carts 
to the yoke, they are much in fault. It is placed 
the under side of the yoke, and lashed to it in the 
same manner as their pr6ugh-beams, A staple and 
ring is much better, for two reasons: 1st, the har- 
nessing and unharnessing is more conveniently 
and quickly done — 2d, the tongue of the cart has 
room to play or vibrate to the right and left in the 
ring without suddenly forcing the oxen by these 
motions. I noticed that the Spaniards, when they 
unharness from the cart or plough, seldom disen- 
gage the yoke from the tongue of the cart or beam 
of the plough. 

On the south side of this extensive plain, and ad- 
joining the sea, there is a portion of ground, from 
50 to 100 acres, exclusively appropriated to the 
keeping and fattening swine of mature growth. 
There are no inclosures or pens : the swine are 
kept in herds from 20 to 100 each, and are fed in 
long troughs ; in other troughs fixed in the ground, 
and level with the surface, the hogs are supplied 
with water, brought in subterranean aqueducts. 
The swine-herds, with their families and dogs, dwell 
in small cabins on the ground, built with reeds or 



MALAGA. 241 

cane-poles, and thatched with straw or grass. . The 
different herds are kept separate from each other ; 
this is done principally by the care and attention 
of the dogs, each of which knows every hog be- 
longing to his herd. The number of swine I 
viewed here to-day is not less than 500, all, of 
which are black and extremely fat, weighing upon 
an average, if butchered, 400 lbs. each. They are 
small frames, short-legged, and of fine form and 
proportions. 

On our way returning to the city, called in and 
viewed the famous saw-mill establishment ; in 
which six perpendicular, and several circular saws 
are carried by steam. The quantity of stuflf sawed 
here, and made up into boxes for raisins, lemons, 
and other fruits, is very great. 

Nov. 26th. Walked before breakfast on the 
Alameda, and through the fruit market. Found 
the square where the market was yesterday morn- 
ing, now clear, and a gallows erected near its cen- 
tre. Learned, that a man was to be hanged there 
at 10 o'clock. The hangman was making the ne- 
cessary preparation about the gallov/s for this aw- 
ful work. At 10 A. M. went with Capt. E. and 
Messrs. H. and S. to the place of execution. The 
criminal had committed four murders beside that 
for which he was now to suffer. The last was 
aggravated by circumstances of extreme cruelty. 
He assassinated and then robbed his uncle. His 
20* 



242 JOURNAL OF A TOUR, &C- 

money, and that of his friends given in bribery, had 
shielded him from the punishment his crimes de- 
served ; but his means being now exhausted, he 
was unable to buy off the penalty of the law, and 
must pay the forfeit with his life. A large collec- 
tion of spectators, estimated at 10,000, filling the 
market square, and at the balconies, windows, and 
tops of the surrounding houses and towers, appeared 
to witness this disgusting spectacle. A company 
of armed infantry, and a small troop of horse form- 
ed a hollow square around the gallows. The suf- 
ferer was ushered in, riding upon a donkey, attend- 
ed by the hangman and about a dozen priests, car- 
rying in their hands small crucifixes. After a few 
moments spent in prayer, at the foot of the broad 
ladder, the executioner ascended it, leading the 
criminal, who, as he went up, kissed each step of 
the ladder. He was clad in a long white gown^ 
girded about him, with a close white cap on his 
head, decorated with a cross of red cloth sewed 
upon it. An elderly priest followed up the suffer- 
er, holding a crucifix at his breast, and dictating a 
form of prayer for the by-standers, to which the 
convict responded. During this time the hangman 
was placing the fatal cord about the neck of the 
sufferer, who then spoke in an audible voice of 
warning to all, asking their prayers for him, and 
requesting all those who forgave him, to hold up 
their hands. Some hissings and grumblings were 



MALAGA. 243 

heard among the spectators, but few hands went 
up. I thought it * not a vote.' The executioner, 
standing a httle higher on the ladder, had already- 
placed his left leg over the left shoulder of the 
criminal, and while the priest was praying, thrust 
aside the crucifix, and springing upon the shoulders 
of the convict, turned him off the ladder, and 
continued upon him, placing a handkerchief upon 
his face, several minutes, and then, holding on by 
the body, slid down. The priests continued for 
some time at the foot of the ladder, holding in their 
hands crucifixes and lighted lamps. The body of 
the sufl[erer, according to the usage here, is to hang 
till 4 P. M. 

The office of executing criminals in the province, 
or, -as it is yet called, the kingdom of Grenada, as 
well as in other parts of Spain, is regulated by law. 
A single individual is appointed for the whole pro- 
vince ; and travels from place to place, as duty 
calls him. Having once accepted this appoint- 
ment, he can never resign it, but by his own death. 
His necessary qualifications are, poverty, cruelty, 
activity, and total destitution of kindly feelings and 
of moral character. He is permitted to live only 
in those parts of the cities which are called * butch- 
ers' quarters.' He is not paid by the job, but 
has a regular salary established by law. Every 
person throughout the province occupying a stall 
in the markets, and every store where goods are 



S44 JOURNAL OP A TOUR, &C* 

sold, is compelled to pay him a small sum annually 5 
this he rigorously exacts, being his own collector, 
and wearing on the front of his cap a small steel 
ladder, as a badge of his office, and a warrant of 
his authority. From this single source of revenue, 
I am well assured the sum received by the hang- 
man of Grenada amounts to between three and 
four thousand dollars annually. In several other 
provinces of Spain, the sum is much greater than 
this. The present hangman of Grenada, who, 
when he received his appointment, was wholly 
destitute of property, is now rich ; he lately mar- 
ried his eldest daughter to a young gentleman, and 
gave with her, as a marriage portion, thirty thou- 
sand dollars. 

By this same hangman law, a court is estab- 
lished, which is holden at the prison from which 
the criminal is taken for execution, immediately 
after execution done. As soon as the hangman 
has finished his work at the gallows, he is arrested 
and brought before this court. After waiting a 
reasonable time, if no friend of the deceased con- 
vict, or other person appear to charge the hang- 
man with unnecessary cruelty, or other improper 
conduct in performing the duty of his office, he is 
discharged. But if complaint be made against him, 
and supported by evidence, the court order him to 
be confined in the same prison, during their plea- 
sure. 



MALAGA. 245 

The method of originating crinninal process and 
prosecuting the suit in the king's court, is singular ; 
and is well calculated to afford opportunity for 
bribery and corruption. Scrivinos are appointed 
for each district. They generally consist of needy 
young men who have acquired a smattering of 
criminal law, and the forms of process. Their 
official duties are to receive complaints for mur- 
der and other crimes, to issue writs of capias and 
subpcena, and bring the party and witnesses before 
them as courts of inquiry. The scrivino makes 
a record of the charges brought, with all the testi- 
mony exhibited on either side. This record is 
sealed by him and delivered to the king's solicitor, 
who enters it on the docket of the court having 
jurisdiction of the crime charged. On trial before 
this court, the record of the scrivino is to be con- 
sidered as absolute verity, unimpeachable and 
conclusive upon the parties. The destiny of the 
accused, therefore, rests upon the evidence sent 
up in the record. A few doubloons seasonably 
slipped into the hand of the scrivino, works a 
wonderful effect upon the state of the evidence as 
placed on the record, and not unfrequently pre- 
sents to the court a case of manslaughter or justi- 
fiable homicide, whereas, if truly recorded, would 
show one of wilful, deliberate murder. But if the 
accused and all his friends are moneyless, and no 
hope of a douceur can be entertained, the record 



246 JOURNAL OF A TOUR, &C. 

contains a true representation of the case. After 
sentence of death is pronounced, the convict has 
but two ways by which he can hope to escape the 
penalty of the law. One is, the king's pardon ; 
the other, by a trick of the * holy catholic church.' 
But as the latter requires a large sum of money, 
this * benefit of clergy' is rarely obtained ; the 
convict and his friends having generally exhausted 
all their means in * buying out the law' on his 
former trials for like offences. The thing, how- 
ever, when done, is managed in this way : the 
priests, on certain days of their own appointment, 
carry the host in procession under a canopy 
through the streets. On meeting this procession, 
^ every knee must bow.' If, by mere chance, and 
without calculation, this holy brotherhood, passing 
through the streets, should meet or fall in with the 
convict and /i?5 procession on their way to the 
place of execution, he is at once claimed as an in- 
nocent man : the padres alledging that by this 
special interposition of divine providence, is mani- 
fested the innocence of the supposed criminal. 
But before he is given up by the arm of civil pow- 
er, to this privilege of sanctuary, these fathers are 
obliged to make oath that the meeting was purely 
providential, and not premeditated nor designed. 
This entitles the convict to free admission into the 
bosom of their church. 
Mi* G. Reed this day received a letter from one 



MALAGA. 247 

of his friends at Gibraltar, written two days since, 
in which he states the number of deaths there, 
since Sept. 1st. to be 1610, but that the number 
of deaths and new cases are now comparatively 
small. 

Nov. 27th, Took an early walk on the Alame- 
da, through the different markets, and around the 
great cathedral church ; viewing with astonish- 
ment this stupendous edifice. It is said to cover 
as much ground as St. Pauls' at London. In the 
year 1528, the bishops and clergy obtained a 
royal grant from Philip, then king of Spain, ap- 
propriating a certain portion of the public reve- 
nue arising in the province of Grenada, for erect- 
ing dJid. finishing this church. It is not yet finish- 
ed : but, for more than two centuries last past, not 
a dollar has been expended upon it. In the plan 
and design of the edifice, a tower w^as to be placed 
on each of the four corners of the roof. One only 
is finished. The pillars of the other three are 
erected, but no dome is thrown over them. In the 
finished tower are placed nineteen bells, w^hich 
chime admirably. The expense of building this 
cathedral, thus far, is variously estimated, from 15 
to 20 millions of pounds sterling, — a greater sum 
than all the present churches and meeting houses 
in New England, and, perhaps may be added, in 
the United States, cost in building. 

The present king of Spain, about two years 



^ 248 JOURNAL OP A TOUR, &C. 

since, sent a message to the reverend archbishop, 
bishops, and clergy at Malaga, informing them 
that the financial concerns of the kingdom were 
greatly embarrassed by reason of the late troubles 
in their country ; that the state of the treasury was 
low, &c., requesting to be informed whether the 
revenue which had been appropriated for building 
their cathedral, might not now be applied to some 
other public use. To this royal message, the con- 
clave gravely replied, ' their church was not yet 
finishecV And so the matter rests, and will pro- 
bably so rest for a century or two yet to come. 
The king is not insensible that his throne stands or 
falls by the influence of the ecclesiastics. 

At 11 A. M., accompanied by Mr. Relf, walked 
out of the city, and over the same grounds we 
visited the day before yesterday. We extended 
our walk to the bank of the west river. It is 
speaking within bounds to say, that more than one 
thousand acres of this vast savanna, are this year 
cropped with the sweet potatoe : great quantities 
of them are shipped to Gibraltar and other places 
in Spain, France and Portugal. This land never 
rests ; for no sooner has it rewarded the farmer 
with one crop, than he begins to prepare it for 
another. In September he sows barley, and hav- 
ing reaped it about the latter end of April, or the 
first week in May, he immediately puts in maize or 
Indian corn, which comes oflf about the middle of 



MALAGA. 249 

September. But before this ripens, he puts in 
sandias (melons) or some other esculent, which 
yields him a third crop in the course of the same 
year. In November he sows wheat, and in June 
reaps it. The produce of both wheat and barley 
is from 15 to 24 for one, — having sown of the 
former 2 bushels to an acre, and of the latter, be- 
tween 3 and 4 bushels. Flax is put into the 
ground about the last of September or beginning 
of October, and comes off^ in May : but hemp, 
which is sown in April, continues on the ground 
till August. These, with cucumbers, (garbanzos) 
peas, French beans, lettuce, (alfalfa) form a rich 
variety of crops which, cherished by a bright sun 
and fed by abundant streams from the pontanas, 
prove a never failing source of plenty. — In the 
spring they abound with oranges and lemons ; 
in summer they have plumbs, cherries, figs, apri- 
cots and nectarines; in autumn they gather 
grapes, and in winter a rich variety of fruits sup- 
plies their tables. Thus Ceres and Pomona ap- 
pear to be engaged in a never ceasing contest 
which shall most contribute to the wealth, com- 
fort and prosperity of this favored region. 

Spent the evening at our lodgings in the aoree- 
able conversation of Mr. Gordon, a Scotch gentle- 
man, and several Spanish, English, and American 
gentlemen, now resident in Malaga. 

Nov. 28th. By the politeness of Capt. Robbing 
21 



250 JOURNAL OF A TOUR, &C. 

of the brig Argus, of Boston, now lading here, was 
introduced to Mr. George Loring, formerly of 
Boston, now a wealthy wine merchant, established 
here. Received an invitation from Mr. L. to 
dine with him on Sunday next. 

Nov. 29th. The people here consider this time 
as the commencement of spring. Green peas and 
string beans are now in perfection ; and yet the 
most delicious grapes of the past vintage are fresh 
and sound. At 9 A. M. went with Mr. George 
Read and viewed the interior of the cathedral, and 
heard the organ accompanying the morning ser- 
vice. I was astounded at the grandeur and ele- 
gance of style and taste, which are displayed in 
every part of this splendid edifice. In hastily 
casting an eye over the different parts, the col- 
umns, pillars, statues, altars, arches, gilding, paint- 
ings, crucifixes, chandeliers, lamps, organ, (fee, of 
which I shall attempt no minute description, I ex- 
perienced a degree of giddiness and confusion of 
intellect, somewhat greater, I thought, than I usu- 
ally labor under. 

Passing through the streets this afternoon, I no- 
ticed a tall, stout, coarse looking man, rather shab- 
bily dressed, carrying a broad leathern belt slung 
over his shoulder, to which was appended bunches 
of keys of various sizes and forms ; his whole car- 
go, as I should judge, consisting of more than one 
thousand. He walked civily along, gingling his 



MALAGA. 251 

keys, without saying a word to any body. I learn- 
ed, upon enquiry, his business was to supply all 
those who had broken or lost a key, and that he 
carried so great a variety about him, that every 
one might be furnished with such as suited their 
locks, and with small expense. 

Dec. \sL Much pained to learn, that by reason 
of a dispute arisen between the captain of the 
Factor and his consignee, respecting a charge of 
commissions made by the latter against the former, 
for supplies furnished the ship while at quarantine 
in this harbor, the ship is in danger of being delay- 
ed a longer time than was expected. The ill 
state of my health deprives me of the pleasure of 
dining this afternoon with my fellow travellers, 
Messrs. E. H. and S. at Messrs. Reads, to which 
we were yesterday invited. 

Dec, ^M. Went with many others this afternoon, 
to see the much talked-about-?/zo/zs^er, a bull, three 
years of age, having two heads and five horns. 
This wonderful lusus naturce was bred in Anda- 
lusia, and has been exhibted as a show in France 
and several other parts of Europe. It is impossible 
for me to give a scientific description of it. In all 
its parts back of the shoulders, there is no deformity. 
On the right side of the lieads^ the ears, horns, 
eyes and muzzle, are of proper size and form. On 
the left side is a lump or protuberance of the size 
and form of the body of a small dog. This 



252 JOURNAL OF A TOUR, &C. 

appears to be an additional animal with the head* 
turned back and connected with the main head.; 
and has upon it two horns of full growth, with u 
fifth which is much smaller, and appears like an 
antler or sprout from the root of one of the large 
horns. It has (our eyes, all of which are of proper 
form ; but the tw^o outer eyes only are visible, ex- 
cept by pressing back the jfleshy parts where the 
junction of the two heads is formed. On the right 
side of the gullet, about ten inches back of the 
mouth, comes out a flexible tube, abqut an inch in 
diameter, covered with skin and hair ; this, pass- 
ing under the neck, comes up and enters the body 
of the additional animal, if it may be so called. 
Through this tube, or rather, hose, part of the 
masticated food is conveyed to it. ^ '^ 

^ * * * I am of opinion, on 

viewing this singular phenomenon, that this addi- 
tion contains a maw and other parts of the intes- 
tines of a perfect animal. 

Dec, 3d: Having been invited by Mr. Loring 
to call on him as often as I should find it conven- 
ient, I availed myself of his civility, and paid him 
a visit this afternoon. This gentleman is a native 
of Boston, and is now about fifty years of age. 
In the earlier part of his life he was employed as 
a ship-master, trading to Spanish America and 
other foreign parts. The course of that business 



MALAGA. 



233 



led him to this city about twenty years past ; soon 
after which he commenced the business of a wine- 
merchant. He soon established himself, married 
a Spanish lady, and has a family of several chil- 
dren ; his eldest son is now at school in Boston. 
By his gentlemanly deportment and integrity, Mr. 
L. has become the most distinguished wine mer- 
chant in Malaga. He retains all the affability and 
engaging manners of his native state, coupled with 
all the correctness and economy of an accomplish- 
ed merchant. I took great satisfaction in viewing 
his extensive establishments, the vast quantity and 
different qualities of his wines, the order and ar- 
rangement of his buildings, process of fining, fer- 
menting and putting up his wines. He is now in 
in partnership with a Swedish gentleman. 

Dec, 4th. Cloudy, windy morning ; blowing a 
gale from E. S. E. and called here and at other 
parts of the Mediterranean, a Levanter. These 
winds rarely continue more than forty eight hours 
at one time ; and are made welcome to those na- 
vigators who are on their voyage through the 
Mediterranean into the Atlantic ; as it affords 
them a favorable opportunity for passing through 
the straits of Gibraltar. Regret much that the 
Factor is not prepared to commence her voyage, 
and take the benefit of this Levanter. 

Walked this afternoon with Capt. Robbins to 
the fruit stores of Loring & Co., where we saw be- 
21* 



254 JOURNAL OF A TOUR, i&C 



tween thirty and forty persons busily employed in 
packing and boxing up raisins, lemons, oranges^ 
citrons, 6lc, now engaged for several cargoes. 
Some hundreds of boxes are packed and branded 
here daily. 

Mr. Bela, the supercargo of the ship Factor, 
having agreed with Messrs. Rein & Co. to ship a 
quantity of lead, now at Almeria, for the N. York 
market, the ship yesterday sailed from this harbor 
for Almeria to take in the lead as part of her car- 
go, and from thence to return to this port, and 
finish the remainder of her lading at Malaga. But 
by the Levanter the ship was driven back intO' 
port last evening, having slipped her cable in the 
offing whei^ she first anchored. This unfortunate 
occurrence serves to retard her departure for the 
U.S. 

Dec, 5th. Capt. Eldridge, not finding market 
for his cocoa here, has concluded to sail to-mor- 
row for Barcelona. Messrs. H. and S. with my- 
self, went on board the Ann, took our trunks and 
other baggage, and put them on board the Factor. 
In doing this, however, we were obliged again to 
go through all the vexatious ceremonies and ex- 
pense of custom-house inspection. 

Dec. 6th. Levanter continues, but somewhat 
moderated. At sun-rise, and again at 12 o'clock, 
cannon were fired, at the light-house and battery, 
in honor of the birth^day of her majesty the queen 



ALMERU. 255 

of Spain. Breakfasted, by invitation of Capt, 
Floyd on board his ship, and viewed the accommo- 
dations for passengers. Wrote to my family, by 
Capt. R., who expects to sail to-morrow for 
Boston. 

Dec, 1th, Capt. F. having invited me, I have 
agreed to go with him on his trip to Almeria, for 
the lead. At 3 P. M. under way, with a fair wind, 
which continues through the night. 

Dec, Sth. At sun-rise, off the bay of Almeria, 
Cape de Gatt in sight, bearing E. N. E. ; tacked 
and stood in for the harbor. At 1 P. M. came to 
anchor. At 5 P. M. visited by a health-boat from 
shore. Our bill of health, passports and papers 
examined. 

Ab?ieria, Dec. 9th, After breakfast, went on shore 
with Capt; F., were conducted to the health office, 
custom house and police offices ; had our passports 
indorsed ; delivered the supercargo's letter to 
Messrs. McDonald, O'Connelly & Co., who inform 
us that the necessary license for shipping the lead 
on board, cannot be obtained from the proper au- 
thority till the 12th inst. ; that the lead must then be 
taken in at Roquetas, near Adra ; that it would be 
best for the ship to continue in this harbor till that 
time,on account of the swell and surf at the Roque- 
tas landing place in rough weather. 

Invited by Mr. O'C. to dine with him, at 2 P. 
M. Among the variety of viands, wines and fruit, 



256 JOURNAL OF A TOUR, &C. 

at this excellent dinner, was a Grenada mountain 
ham, SO much esteemed by the gourmands of France 
and England. It is cured in snow and sugar with- 
out smoke, and with little or no salt. It is known 
abroad by the name of sweet-ham. 



LETTER VIII. 

Almeria, Dec, llth, 1828. 
Dear Sir — 
After breakfast, went on shore with Capt. F. ; 
called on Mr. O'C. and inquired concerning the " 
license : were obliged to call again at the police 
office, and go through the farce of renewing our 
passports. No people in the world manage to 
make money out of a little thing, like Spaniards. 
After paying the customary fees, and making our 
bows, both of which appeared to be well accepted, 
w^e walked, in company with Mr. O'C, through 
the principal streets of this very ancient city, the 
last in Spain from which the Moors were driven.^ 

* It was stated to me by several Spanish gentlemen, both 
here and at Malaga, as a fact, recorded in the annals of Grana- 
da, that at the final expulsion of the Moors, in 1487, a royal 
order was made by Ferdinand and Isabella, that the families of 



ALMEIIIA. 257 

Almeria is a walled city, its population about 
20,000. The fortifications are low, inconsiderable, 
and much out of repair. Within the walls of the 
city are three churches, one of which, St. John's, 
is very ancient ; one other, without the walls, of 
later date, and style of architecture. There are 
also two convents of nuns, and three of friars. 
The city is compactly built, on a low flat of alluvial 
ground, of great fertility. 

the Moors then remaining in Spain, should be transported to 
the African shore, and landed in Morocco, at the expense of 
the Spanish government. For this purpose, Spanish vessels 
were employed, and contracts made with the masters for a cer- 
tain stipulated price per head, for all the Moors they should 
transport. They were shipped principally at Malaga and Al- 
meria. Several of these vessels performed two trips in a day 
and night. This despatch excited some surprise among the 
Spanish officers ; and upon inquiry, they found, that as soon 
as these vessels had advanced 20 or 30 miles from the harbors, 
the Moors were thrown overboard, and suffered to perish in 
the sea. This accounted for the speedy return of the vessels 
for a fresh cargo. But such was the spirit of the nation at 
that period, and such their hatred of tlie Moors, that no mea- 
sures were taken to punish the perpetrators of these acts of 
cruelty. ^V^hen we consider these barbarities, and those exer- 
cised by Pizarro and other Spaniards upon the unoffending and 
defenceless natives of South America, none can be found so 
blind as not to see the manifestation of the divine displeasure 
of an avenging God, visited upon this now wretched, impover- 
ished and degraded nation. That cupidity, that auri sacra 
fames^ which impelled the Spaniards to acts of unexampled 
cruelty, has entailed a * curse not causeless,' upon their country. 



258 JOURNAL OF A TOUR, &C. 

The chief officer of the city and district is a gov- 
ernor, who is vested with civil and mihtary juris- 
diction ; and as judge, also, is the first executive 
officer, and protector of foreigners. 

The export trade from this city is lead, barilla, 
and wheat ; but lead forms the principal article, 
amounting to 35,000 tons annually. The ore is 
rich, producing, when smelted, about 70 per cent. 
The lead mines in the mountains of Grenada were 
formerly the exclusive property of the king, and 
produced a large revenue to the crown. During 
the late revolution, they were almost wholly neg- 
lected. Since that period, a different order is es- 
tablished. All the minas plumo (lead mines) on 
the mountains of ^Grenada, are now considered as 
common, w^ithout any individual ownership. Any 
person wishing to occupy them, or any part of 
them, takes possession ; and during his occupancy, 
pays certain duties or customs, amounting in the 
whole, to 12 per cent, on the smelted lead, of 
which 7 per cent, goes to the church, and the re- 
mainder to the king's treasury. Upon a discon- 
tinuance of occupancy for six months, any other 
person may take possession, and work the mine on 
the same terms. The wealth and resources of 
Almeria consist principally in the product of these 
mines. Messrs. Rein & Co., merchants at Malaga, 
are now occupying sixteen smelting furnaces, in 
the vicinity of Almeria, at each of which 17,000 



ALMERIA. 259 

quintals of lead are annually manufactured. These 
constitute but a small portion of the mines wrought 
within the district of Almeria. 

Walked this afternoon, attended by Mr, 0*C., 
upon the wall, and through the different parts of 
the city, viewed the churches, convents, nunneries, 
gardens, old Moorish walls, castles, and towers, 
the latter of which are much impaired by time. 
In conversation this morning with Mr. * * ^ ^^ who 
is a Roman Cathohc resident here, but a gentle- 
man of liberal mind and extensive information, 
speaking of the corruptions and abuses which had 
crept into their church, he stated to me as a fact, 
within his knowledge, that about two years past, 
while an English ship lay off Roquetas, to which 
place she was bound for a cargo of lead, there 
came on a severe gale of wind from the S, E. 
which endangered the safety of the ship ; — that the 
Catholics in Roquetas offered up public prayers in 
their churches, that the ship might be driven on 
shore and wrecked, so that an opportunity might 
be afforded them for plunder ; the owners and 
crew of the ship being, as they supposed, heretics. 
The permit being now procured, the Factor was 
ready to sail for Roquetas, about 8 miles west of 
Almeria, and take in the lead ; but there being a 
strong easterly wind, it would be impossible for 
the boats to bring off the lead, on account of the 
swell and surf at the landing place. 



260 JOURNAL OF A TOUR, &C. 

Roquetas, Dec. I2th. The wind having hauled 
to the N. E. weighed anchor, at 5 A. M. and under 
light sail dropped down to Roquetas, and anchored 
a mile and a half from the shore, near the old 
Moorish castle ; but the wind continuing, the surf 
was so great, that no communication <:ould be had 
with the shore this day. 

Dec. I3th. Fine, still, clear morning. All hands 
employed in discharging ballast overboard, to make 
room for the lead in the hold. Launches from 
shore commenced bringing off lead, at 9 A. M. 
Shipped, in the course of the day, 82 tons. At ^ 
P. M. went ashore, viewed the village and the old 
Moorish castle near the water's edge, now in ruins. 
The population of the village is about 3,000. They 
have two churches, but no fortification, mole, dock 
or wharf. The small plat of ground on which the 
village stands, is low, gravelly and unproductive. 
The inhabitants live principally by working the 
lead mines, and by bringing the lead into market 
at Roquetas, where it is bought and shipped. Their 
village lies at the foot of the mountain, on which, 
and within a few miles of the village, vast quanti- 
ties of lead are smelted. 

At 2 P. M. the last launch with lead went off to 
the ship, and at 4 was stowed away. Whole num- 
number of pigs or bars shipped, 3963, weighing 
from 120 to 135 lbs. each. 



MALAGA. 261 

The ship being now ready to take her depart- 
ure, the evening and night being clear and pleasant, 
with a good moon ; at 12 o'clock weighed anchor, 
and, favored with a land breeze, stood out to sea. 

Dec. IGt/i, At sun- rise, off Adra. Wind being 
light, advanced but 15 or 16 miles the whole day ; 
but were compensated by a serene atmosphere, 
and sublime view of the snow-capped summits of 
the mountains of Grenada. 

Dec, 18th, At sun-rise, off Velez Malaga. At 
3 P. M. wind hauled to N, W. and enabled the 
ship to stand in for Malaga harbor, where she an- ^ 
chored at 4 P. M. 

Malaga, Dec. I9th. After breakfast, went 
ashore, and spent the day in the agreeable company 
of my fellow-passengers. We are all cheered 
with a prospect of the Factor being ready to sail 
in eight or ten days for the U. States. 

Dec. 20th. Walking to-day through the streets, 
and on the docks, I counted from fifteen to twenty 
crosses, some of which are standing single, and 
others affixed to the walls of houses, castles, and 
watch towers. I had also seen many standing by 
the road-side, in my rambles out of the city. I 
was informed these crosses were erected to mark 
the spot where persons had been assassinated. 
On each of them, or on the wall to which they 
were attached, if the victim had been a man of 
any distinction, his name, age, office, and time when 
22 



262 JOURNAL OF A TOUR^ &,C. 

murdered, are inscribed. But the principal design 
of these disgusting memorials, is attributable to the 
pious fathers of the church. They feel such yearn- 
ings for souls in purgatory, that they let no untried 
means escape them, to draw money from the peo- 
ple, either for the use of the living or the dead* 
* Here,' say they, ' a poor soul was suddenly sent 
to his long account, with all his imperfections on 
his head, unannealed ; not a moment's time allowed 
him for repentance or absolution ! And will you, 
can you be so unchristian, as to refuse a small sum 
for a mass to relieve his soul from purgatory ?" 
This appeal to conscience is mad^ with such power 
as seldom fails of success. 

Dec, 2lst. Agreeably to invitation, called at 11 
A. M. on Mr. L. to ride with him into the country. 
We took the road N. up the dry bed of the river, a 
broad and convenient highway, from 20 to 40 rods 
wide, walled on each side, to prevent overflowing 
in times of freshets from the mountains. About 
two miles from the city, we alighted, and commit- 
ting the horse and chaise to the care of a servant, 
walked off half a mile to the right, through a narrow 
lane, to take a view of the aqueduct conveying 
water from the mountain into the city. It is con- 
structed in the Roman manner, upon arches across 
the ravines and gorges of the mountain, and con- 
ducted by excavation through some of the highest 
hills. It is built of stone, tiles and bricks ; and is 



MALAGA. 



263 



3^ feet broad, and 4 feet deep, and now carries 
water sufficient to turn a grist-mill. Directly under 
the visible stream, is another of the same capacity, 
divided from the upper by a horizontal partition of 
tiles. The upper stream is the property of a com- 
pany of individuals ; the under, belongs to the king. 
From the upper stream, the owners of several 
plantations, orange and lemon groves, vineyards, 
and gardens, through and near which this aque- 
duct passes, are supplied with water for the pur- 
pose of irrigation. Each of these owners has on 
his grounds a pontano, from 20 to 80 feet square, 
and from 10 to 15 feet deep, floored and walled 
with stone. These are filled by pipes conducting 
the water from the aqueduct. Each proprietor 
pays a stipulated price for this privilege. The 
surplus water is carried into the city, where it is 
distributed in pipes through several streets, for the 
accommodation of families. The under stream is 
used solely for public convenience. A few reser- 
voirs in the public squares, and at some of the cor- 
ners of the principal streets, are filled from it, and 
afford the finest watering places for cattle, and for 
other uses. The remainder, passing under ground, 
is discharged through a large conduit, into the har- 
bor at the wall of the mole. This furnishes to 
vessels lying in port, one of the most convenient 
watering places in the Mediterranean. A boat, 
with empty casks, is rowed up to the mole, and 



264 JOURNAL OF A TOUR, &C. 

with the aid of a hose, the water is conducted into 
them, with but Httle labor. The length of the 
aqueduct is about ten miles, and is constantly kept 
m good repair: the water is clear, and of the best 
quality. 

We visited several seats and plantations of great 
value, built and laid out with correct taste. The 
orange and lemon groves, now loaded with fruit, 
present a most charming view. Peas and beans 
in great abundance and variety ; some in blossom, 
some podded, and others suitable for plucking. 
The jessamine, apricots, peaches, and many arti- 
cles of flower shrubbery, in full bloom. The buds 
of the alijiond swollen, and will blossom in four or 
five days. Delightful climate ! 

We called at the noted seat lately owned and 
occupied by an English family, of the name uf 
Powers. The mansion house, offices, out houses, 
gardens, gravel walks, reservoirs, vistas of the 
most beautiful cypress trees, orange and lemon 
groves, form, altogether, a kind of terrestrial para- 
dise. On this small plantation, containing only 34 
acres, are now standing 750 lemon trees, 480 or- 
ange and 430 cypress trees ; all of which are irri- 
gated when necessary, from aqueducts and reser- 
voirs on the premises. The Powers family is now 
extinct ; and the seat is offered for sale. 

Returned into the city at 3 P. M. and dined 
with Mr. L. 



MALAGA. 



265 



Dec. 2'2d, The brig Thomas, Capt. Ring, bound 
to New York, warped out this afternoon, and, wind 
permitting, sails this evening. Had the pleasure 
to dine with Mr. Relf, on board the Factor. He 
has kindly favored me with the loan of a large file 
of London newspapers, of June, July, August, and 
September last. 

Dec. 23d. Wore away the day, walking in dif- 
ferent parts of the city. Among other things, 
viewed the now vacant square, near the water side, 
which, till within a year or two past, was used as 
a bull-baiting amphitheatre : that popular amuse- 
ment, with all its cruelty, to which the Spaniards 
are so firmly attached. The brig Jasper, from 
New^ York, arrived here last night, after a short 
passage of 34 days, bringing letters and newspa- 
pers, by which it appears the presidential election 
terminates in favor of Gen. Jackson. 

Dec. 241/1, At 10 A. M. lighters began to come 
off* with wine, raisins, &c. : was much pleased to 
hear Mr. Bela, the supercargo, give notice to Capt. 
F., that he should have the whole of the remaining 
cargo on board, and the necessary papers prepared, 
so that the ship might sail on Sunday next. Brig 
Malaga from Boston arrived here this morning. 

Dec. 25th. Christinas. All here to-day is bustle, 
processions, music, frolic, dissipation, masses, ring- 
ing bells, and merry-making. The commemora- 
tion of the nativity of the Saviour, in all Catholic 
22^ 



266 JOURNAL OP A TOUR, i&C. 

countries, seems to be fixed upon and used as a 
day of general license for indulgence in such irregu- 
larities and practices as would disgrace the follow- 
ers of the false prophet. 

Dec.26th. Cloudy,dark morning, wind W.; brig 
Thomas yet lying off. At 2 P. M. dined with Mr. 
L. ; learn that among other irregularities, or rather 
regularities here, three men were assassinated in 
this city on Christmas eve, and four or five others 
stabbed, but not mortally. This being but a com- . 
mon and ordinary occurrence, is but little noticedy 
and has not in it sufficient interest to awaken in- 
quiry among the citizens. It is coldly observed, 
by some of them ; ' the number is quite as small, 
and indeed rather smaller than is usual on such 
occasions.' 

Part of the ship's crew employed in watering for 
the voyage, but no hope of getting off till Monday 
or Tuesday next. 

Dec. 27th. Went on shore, and dined with Cap- 
tains F., R. and Gillet, at ' old John's.' The re- 
mainder of the day busily employed assisting Mr. 
Leach, one of the passengers, procuring and ship- 
ping passengers' stores. Among other things, Mr. 
E. this day shipped 24 tons quicksilver, brought 
round from Seville. 

Spent the evening very pleasantly, w^ith Capt. 
Stroud, from London, on board his brig, accompa- 



MALAGA. 267 

nied by Capts. Woodward and Andrews from 
England, all now at anchor in this harbor. 

Dec. 28th. At 11 A. M. called on Mr. L., and 
by invitation rode out on horseback with him to- 
ward Velez Malaga, about five miles. Had the 
satisfaction to see scores of vine-dressers now em- 
ployed with their pruning-hooks in the vineyards. 
They cut away every new branch at the old stock, 
excepting three or four, and on these they leave 
but four or five buds for the next year's growth. 
The stumps stand in rows about five feet apart 
from each other, and when pruned, have the ap- 
pearance of a field of dead shrub-oak stumps, six 
or eight inches high. Dined with Mr. L. and slept 
on shore at *old John's.' Good bed and clean 
sheets. 

In this place I would remark, that since my ar- 
rival in Europe, and throughout my tour thus far, I 
have often been led to the most painful reflections 
upon the intemperate use of ardent spirits, which 
80 alarmingly prevails in my own country. It is 
with great satisfaction 1 am warranted to say, that 
while in Greece, Asia Minor, Malta, Tunis, Port 
Mahon, and Spain — in the whole about six months, 
I never saw a native of either of these countries 
in any degree intoxicated : but in most of them, 
many Enghsh, Scotch, Irish, Russians, and (I blush 
for shame when I say it) Americans, in a state of 
sottish drunkenness. These are wine countries. 



268 JOURNAL OP A TOUR, &C. 

It has often been remarked, that the inhabitants 
of all such countries are distinguishable from others 
by their disuse of intoxicating liquors. This is 
literally correct, so far as I have had opportunity 
of judging. The wines generally drunk there, pos- 
sess but a small degree of intoxicating properties, 
not even as great as the w^ell made and v^ell 
wrought cider of New England, and are the com- 
mori and every day beverage at the table. 

It is said* by the wine-merchants, and wine-adul- 
terers in the U. States, that it is necessary to add 
spirits to all imported wine, in order to prepare it 
for a sea-voyage, and prevent an acetous fermenta- 
tion. This is not true, and is used only as a pre- 
tence, under which they drug and poison most 
of their wines, increasing the quantity by articles 
of less value, thereby enabling themselves to in- 
crease their profits. 

All foreign wines, properly fermented and fined, 
suffer no deterioration by the longest voyages, and 
through the warmest latitudes ; but rather increase 
in their richness and flavor. 

Both in Greece and Spain, I have had frequent 
opportunities of witnessing the process of ferment- 
ing and fining their wines. Immediately after 
passing through the press, the wine is placed in 
vats or casks, in a cool under-ground room or deep 
cellar, where the temperature is regulated by ven- 
tilators. If, by reason of too great warmth, the 



MALAGA. 269 

fermentation be too active, and in danger of be- 
coming acetous, cooler air is admitted through the 
ventilators. By exposure of new w^ine to the sun 
or a heated air, it soon becomes acetous, and 
makes the best vinegar. After wine is once prick- 
ed, as it is termed, it can never, by any process, be 
restored. Brandy, sugar, water, sweet cider, and 
many other articles of a more deleterious nature, 
may be, and often are thrown in, to make such 
wine saleable, but its vinous properties, the real 
juice of the grape, are forever lost ; and this com- 
pound liquor becomes a poison of the most destruc- 
tive character. 

Temperance in eating, also, is not less remark- 
able and praisew^orthy among these people, than 
temperance in drinking. It is indeed astonishing 
to an American to observe, with how small a 
quantity of animal food, the Greeks and Turks, 
particularly, sustain themselves, and preserve their 
health, activity and strength. No people have I 
yet seen, who possess all these in a higher degree. 
Much the greater part of the animal food they use, 
is cooked in soups, with an abundance of vegeta- 
bles of various kinds. These soups rest lightly 
and easily upon the stomach, and impart health 
and vigor to the constitution. 

Dec, 2lst, At 6 P. M. the shipment of the cargo 
w^as finished, excepting a few articles of provisions 
for the passengers. The mizen and forward 



&70 JOURNAL OF A TOUR, &C. 

hatches were closed. Messrs. H., S. and L. brought 
on board their bedding, trunks, and other baggage. 
Expect the ship will haul out to-morrow, and set 
sail at evening, should the wind be fair. Though 
extremely anxious to commence the voyage, 1 am 
not without apprehensions respecting the dangers 
and hardships with which such a voyage, at this 
season of the year, must necessarily be attended. 

Jan. \st, 1829. Wind being W. and blowing 
fresh, the ship could not be warped out of the har- 
bor, if otherwise ready : sadly disappointed in my 
hope of commencing our voyage on the commence- 
ment of the new year. At 3 P. M. dined with Mr. 
L. in company with ten gentlemen, part of whom 
are Americans, part Spaniards, part English, and 
the remainder Germans. After dinner, took my 
leave of Mr. L. and his family, with feehngs of the 
deepest gratitude for the kind attentions, hospitality, 
and favors received of that gentleman, since my 
arrival at Malaga. 

Jan. 2d. The ship being now ready to sail, at 
1 1 A. M. got up our stern anchor, kedged out, and 
hoisted sail at sun-down, wind light from off land. 
Messrs. Loring, Barrel, Relf, Reads, Nixon, Plows, 
and several other gentlemen, came off in boats to 
take leave of us, and wish us a pleasant voyage, 
and safe arrival at New York. From all the above 
named gentlemen, we had received such kind at- 
tentions and civilities during our long residence 



AT SEA, 271 

among them, that the parting ceremonies were at- 
tended with tender feehngs, on our part at least. 
On leaving the harbor, we were met by a head 
wind, which continued fresh through the night. 
The ship labored and plunged heavily, as was ex- 
pected from the kind of cargo with which she was 
laden. 

Jan, 3d!. Head wind continues. At sun-rise, 
made the rock of Gibraltar, distant 25 miles. At 
8 A. M. off Marbella, a town about 30 miles W. 
of Malaga, and famous for the vast quantity of 
plumbago (black lead) manufactured there. Con- 
tinued through the day beating against a strong 
head wind, advancing but slowly toward the 
straits. At evening, ran in under the N. shore, 
and lay in calm water through the night. 

Jan. 4th, The rock of Gibraltar, Europa point, 
Apes hill and Ceuta, all in plain view ; the former 
about 10 miles distant, bearing W. N. W. Now 
in sight, more than 100 sail, in and about the bay 
and rock, waiting, like us, for a fair wind to waft 
us through the straits. 

From this to the 13th inst. such was the preva- 
lence of westerly winds, that we were all compel- 
led to beat about, lying off and on, and heaving to 
day and night ; several times driven back nearly 
to Malaga 1 most of the time attended w^ith dark, 
thick weather, squalls, rain, thunder and lightning; 



272 JOURNAL OP A TOUR, &C. 

and in danger of running foul of each other, during 
the dark nights. 

Jan, Hth, At 2 this morning, to our great joy, 
a hght breeze sprung up, E. N. E. ; set the sails, 
and laid our course for the gut. At 7 off the rock ; 
wind freshens to a stiff breeze. At 9, passed Ta- 
riffa light — 90 vessels, in one view, shaping their 
course with /us, under a press of sail. At 12, off 
Cape Spartel. At 2 P. M. passed through Trafal- 
gar bay, and at 4 took my last view of Europe and 
Africa. May that kind Providence which has 
protected me thus far, give me a prosperous voy- 
age to my native shores. 

Jan. \Gth, Passed the Madeiras during the last 
evening and night, leaving them about 100 miles 
to the N. — our course S. S. W. At 12 o'clock, our 
Latitude 3r 28', W. Lon. 15^ 20'. 

Jan. I9th. At 8 A. M. made the islands of Pal- 
ma and Ferro, two of the Canaries, bearing E. S. 
E, about 30 miles distant, having passed Teneriffe 
before day light. 

Jan, 28th, Strong breeze N. W. ; ship rolls 
heavily ; at 8 A. M* passed a brig to windward, 
course N. E. Now near the middle of the Atlan- 
tic ; 26 days from Malaga, and 15 from Gibrahar. 
Saw yesterday and to-day several grampus whales, 
sheer-waters, and large shoals of flying fish. 

Feb, 1st. Weather clear, and uncomfortably 
warm. Wind N. but light ; 3 knots. 



AT SEA. :Zi6 

Saw this forenoon two Tropic birds. This rare 
bird, I understand, is never seen, except at and 
within the tropics. It is of tlie size of the white 
gull, plumage white, with a pointed tail, in the form 
of a marUn spike, 18 inches in length. They are 
of a solitary character, never seen in flocks, and 
but seldom in pairs. Gulf-weed, in small parcels. 
Lat. 19%58', Lon.45°21'. 

Feb, 26?. Clear, warm and calm. At day-break, 
this morning, a multitude of small fish was discov- 
ered about the ship. Hooks and lines were imme- 
diately put in requisition, and great sport enjoyed, 
by taking as many as were desired. This excellent 
fish is of the shape and size of the black, or rock- 
fish of America, and takes the bait with great 
avidity. About 8 A. M. the dolphins appeared in 
schools of hundreds. Of this most beautiful of all 
the fishes of the sea, we took but three. Many 
were lost by breaking our hooks, or tearing out the 
mouth, just before securing them on deck. The 
beauty and variety of colors displayed by this sin- 
gular fish, exceed any description in my power to 
give. Their weight from 14 to 18 lbs. 

Feb. 3d, Saw this day five large whales, one of 
which came near the ship, and aflbrdcd us a fiill 
and fair view of its enormous magnitude. Vast 
numbers of dolphins around the ship, but none 
caught Saw many instances of that strong and 
active fish chasing the Hying fish with a velocity 
really sur])rising. The dolphin is, at sea, amont^ 
23 



274 



JOURNAL OP A TOUR, &C. 



the smaller fishes, much like the hawk on land, 
among birds. 

Feh, 4th, Warm and calm : had great sport this 
forenoon, taking 6 dolphins ; also saw 5 or 6 large 
whales, with one calf, near the ship. Dreary 
prospect of a long voyage. Lat. 20° 40', Lon. 
48° 14' W. 

Feb. 13th. This day, Lat. 24° 31', Lon. 60^ 58', 
by chr(5rjometer, spoke the schr. Only Son, Capt. 
Warren, from Lisbon, bound to Wilmington, out 
37 days. Capt. F. went on board her, and ob- 
tained a small quantity of bread, some rice and 
tobacco, of all which we stood in need. 

Feb. I5th. Having now left the trade winds, 
and encountered the tug of the voyage, no hopes 
can be entertained of good weather and pleasant 
sailing for the remainder. At 9 P. M. took in top- 
gallant sails, wind blowing a gale. Ship labors 
much, plunging heavily against a dead sea. 

Feb. [Gth. Gale continues with increased vio- 
lence. At 6 A. M. the bars of lead on the spar 
deck fetched away, and many other things, both 
between decks and in the cabin were thrown into 
confusion. At 1 P. M. storm increases, with black 
clouds, violent squalls, copious showers, and tre- 
mendous peals of thunder : most of the sails taken 
in, or reefed, and the ship laid to, with her helm 
lashed. No observation taken this day. 

Feb. 2lst. This may be marked as a day of trou- 
ble. At 2 P. M. the ship, by the stroke of a heavy 



AT SEA. 



275 



sea on her stern, pitched her bowsprit, anchor- 
stocks, and fore-castle many feet under water. 
The shock was tremendous. The stern boat, with 
all her fastenings, and one of the davits, ripped off 
in a second, and lost. The captain, first mate, and . 
passengers, with soup plates in their hands had 
commenced their dinner. The shock instantly 
threw^ us all from the table, into a promiscuous 
heap on the forward side of the cabin. Every 
plate was broken ; each bosom and coat pocket 
received a share of the soup. The meat dishes, 
with their contents, accompanied with all the 
plates, knives, forks, and other vessels on the table, 
went into the same heap of ruin, and most of them 
broken. A flood of water rushed down the com- 
panion-way, and gave an hour's employment for 
the steward with his buckets. 

Feh. 23c?. Gale continues without abatement ; 
losing latitude so dearly gained. At 4 P. M. a 
heavy sea broke over us, with a noise like the re- 
port of a cannon ; part of our bulwarks, on the 
weather side stove in, and a greater part on the 
leeward side carried away. Ship labors ; rolling 
heavily ; leaks gain upon the pumps. Lat. by 
chronometer, 3P 24', Lon. 69^ 10. Put on al- 
lowance of water. 

Feh. 26th. The increased violence of the gale, 
attended by squalls and loud peals of thunder, ex- 
cited some alarm among the stoutest on board. 
Al 2 P. M. double reefed top-sails. At 7 lay to, 



276 JOURNAL OF A TOUR, &C. 

main-top sail split. By order of Capt. F. threw 
over- board 180 bars of lead. Leaks increasing, 
gained upon the pumps the last 12 hours. 

Feb. ^Ith. Gale being less violent this forenoon, 
overhauled and repaired the pumps. At 9 A. M. 
unlashed the helm. P. M. ; gale increasing, with 
enormous swells, a further quantity of lead thrown 
overboard: Our course N. N. E. Lat. SS'* 29', 
Lon. 72^ 30'. 

Feb, 28th, Lead between decks fetched away, 
and a further quantity thrown overboard. No ob- 
servation. 

March 2d. Close reefed top-sails ; wind N. W. 
leaks gaining fast on the pumps : no observation. 

March 5th. At 7 A. M. soundings, 45 fathoms ; 
at 12 o'clock, 25 fathoms ; spoke ship Telegraph : 
no observation. 

March 1th. Dark thick weather ; snow and 
sleet. At 6 P. M. advanced within 8 or 10 miles 
of Sandy Hook, but as no pilot boat appeared, lay 
off through the night, in the course of which, fired 
two guns, for a pilot. 

March 8th. At 8 A. M. pilot came out, and at 6 
P M. we arrived at New York, after a long and 
tedious voyage of 66 days from Malaga. 

The kind attentions 1 have received from the 
Chairman and other gentlemen of the Greek Com- 
mittee, since my arrival here, deserve my particu- 
lar and grateful acknowledgments. 



1 



ACCOUNT OF THE AGENTS 

For the Distribution of the Car^o of 

the Brig^ Herald. 



f;;j='An apology is due to the donors of these charities, for the delay of 
the Agents to publish their account at an earlier period. This delay has 
been occasioned by the long protracted illness of Mr. Stuyvesant, both in 
Greece and since his return. 



1, An acxiount of the provisions and clothing distributed to the poor re- 
siding in and opposite to Poros, at Apathia, Katara, Tacticupolis of 
Methana, to those living in the woods and mountains, and to those who at 
different times were brought from slavery in Egypt. 

The number of families who received were - - 1190 

The No. of individuals who received provisions - - 4798 

The No. of do. do. clothing - - - 3585 

Flour and meal distributed at those places • • barrel 365 
Bread do. da - - - - 13 

Beans and peas do. do. • - • • - 28 

Beef and pork do. do. - • 19 

Potatoe flour do. do. - - - - - 1 

Boxes of clothing do. do. - - - boxes 62 

The following were the numbers of the boxes and the places from 
whence they came, viz. 

No. 138 Prom Middlebury, Conn. 

2 From Lebanon, Conn, 144 " Hudson Female Associa- 

3 " Norwich, " tion, N Y. 
36 " Slierman, " 145 " " " 

72 " Washington," 148 " Hillsdale and Claverack, 

91 " Onondaga Court House Columbia Co. N. Y. 

Village, N. Y. 152 " Durham, " 

113 " Providence, R. I. 153 " Wheatland, 

115 " " " 157 " Rochester, " 

121 " Pawtucket, " 160 " Rensellaer and Albany 
133 " Chesterville, in Saybrook, Co, N. Y. 

Conn. 163 " Fairport, " 

23* 



278 



APPENDIX. 



No. 
168 
173 

181 

183 
200 
210 

212 
215 
218 
219 

226 

228 
229 

241 

242 
245 
252 



Prom Goshen, N. Y. 
" Albany, " 
" WatertowTi, Jefferson 

Co. N. Y. 
" Sacketts Harbour, N. Y. 
" Troy, " 

" Parma, " 

" Greece, Monroe Co. " 
" Marcellus, " 

" Pittsfield, Mass. 
" Ellsworth, in Sharon, 

Conn. 
" New Berlin and Colum- 
bus, N. Y. 

" West Bloomfield, N. Y. 
« (( {( (( 

" Dorchester, Mass. 

(( (( a 

" Windham, Conn. 
" Plattsburgh, N. Y. 



No. 

253 Unknown where from 

262 From Monkton, 

266 " Whitestown, Oneida Ca 

N. Y. 
268 " " " 

271 
272 
275 
272 
278 
280 
288 
291 
293 



295 
303 



307 
317 



Penfield,Monroe Co.N.Y. 
<( (( 

Martinsburgh, " 
Buffalo, •' 

(C tc 

Unknown, 
FrankHn, Conn. 
Canterbury, " 
Rodman* Le Roy and 

Belleville, N. Y. 
SandyhiU, " 
White Creek, Cambridge 

and Jackson, N. Y. 
Evans Mills, " 
Mendon, Mass. 



2. An account of the provisions and clothing distributed to the refugees 
in the island of Egina. 



The No. of families who received were 

of individuals who received provisions were 
of do. do. clothing 

of barrels of flour and meal distributed were 
do. of bread 
do. of beans and peas 
of boxes of clothinsj distributed were 



1756 

6401 

3336 

272 

2 

4 

30 



No. 

8 Prom Norwich, Conn. 
108 " Pall-River Village, Mass. 
118 " Masonsville, Thompson, 

Conn. 
1 12 " Providence, R. 1. 
120 " Pawtucket, • " 
124 " Goshen, N. Y. 
136 " Chazy, " 
154 " Wheatland, " 
166 " Schoharie, " 
171 " Albany, " 
186 " Homer, " 

196 " New Hartford, Oneida 

Co. N. Y. 

197 " Valley Palls, Mass. 

198 " Westford Society, Ash- 

ford, Conn. 



No. 

213 Prom Rochester, N. Y. 

214 " Hanover, N. J, 
224 " Bethlehem, Conn. 

231 " West Bloomfield, N. Y. 

248 " Butternuts, " 

247 " Catskill, *• 

257 " Poughkeepsie, " 

299 " Martinsburgh, 

70 " Whitehall, " 

302 " Henderson, " 

61 " Glens-falls, '' 

315 " Sullivanville, Chittenan- 

go, N. Y. 

327 " Leicester, Mass. 

320 *' West Mendon, Mass. 

117 " Albany, N. Y. 

319 " H. Piatt, Jun. 



APPENDIX. 



279 



3. An account of the provisions and clothing distributed at Navarino, 
and among tliose who live in the neighbouring mountains of Navarino, 
Arcadia, Sotirie, Petrochori, Chasanaga, Pisaski, Sumanaga, Giuvaliovori, 
Niclena, Pispisa, Platanos, Chores, Sapriki, Veristia, Potamia, Muzusta, 
Gargaliani, Pyrgos, Pedemenos, Miniaki, and Paniza. 

The No. of families who received were - - 850 

of individuals who received provisions were - 4151 

do. do, clothing, . 3767 

of barrels of flour and meal distributed, were • 210 

of do. of bread .... 6 

of boxes and tierces of clothing, were - - 32 
No. No. 
17 From Tomkinsville, N. Y. 156 From Durham, Conn. 



20 


It 


Hartford, Conn. 


155 " Wheatland, N. Y. 


21 


a 


" " 


159 ' 


' Meredith, " 


23 


(t 


(( c 


182 ' 


« Watertown, " 


25 


" 


Berlin, Britain Society, 


199 ' 


' Middlebury, Vermont. 






Conn. 


237 ' 


' Berkshire, Mass. 


38 


C( 


New Miiford, Conn. 


255 ' 


•' Shenectady, " 


56 


a 


Sandisfield, Mass. 


258 ' 


* Poughkeepsie, N. Y. 


02 


(( 


New Haven, Conn. 


259 ' 


■' North East Dutchess Co, 


63 


c 


« 




N. Y. 


65 


<( 


(C 


260 ' 


' Gorham, Conn. 


66 


li 


tl 


286 ' 


' Sweden, N. Y. 


81 


(I 


Stillwater, N. Y. 


290 " Lisbon, Hanover, N. Y. 


90 


(( 


Woodbury, Conn. 


311 ' 


' New York City, 


142 


c. 


New Preston, " 


312 ' 


( (C 


146 


l( 


Hillsdale, N. Y. 


314 ' 


£ «( 


150 


(( 


Cattskill, " 


356 


ii <C 



4. Account of the distributions at Clarentza, Vatholonius, Elia, Gastou- 
ni, (fee. by the assistance of Dr. John D. Russ. 



The No. of families who received were 

of individuals who received provisions were 

do. do. clothing 

of barrels of flour and meal distributed were 
do. bread 
do. beans and peas 
of boxes of clothing 



531 

1892 

1873 

79 

33 

9 

IS 



No. 

1 From Pomfret Village Facto- 
ry, Conn. 

13 " Fairfield, Conn. 

14 " Newburgh, N. Y. 

18 " First Parish, Wethcrs- 

ficld, Conn; 
52 " New York City, by Mrs. 
Innes, 



No. 
53 



Prom 



by 



74 
73 



87 
149 



New York City, 
Mrs. Innes, 
" Sangamck, Conn. 
" Brownville, Jefferson Co. 

N. Y. 
Stockbridge, Mass. 
" Canandaigua, N Y. 



^80 



APPENDIX. 



No. 

179 From Smith ville, Jefferson 

Co. N. Y. 
203 " Troy, N. Y. 
232 " Lebanon, Columbia, Co. 
N.Y. 



No. 

265 Prom Pittsford, Mass. 

281 " Ogden, Monroe Co. N. Y. 

289 " Franklin, Conn. 

305 " Glens Falls, N. Y. 

308 " Evan's Mills, " 



5. Account of the distributions at Patras, to the refugees from Missolong- 
hi, and the poor from Vostitza and other villages. 

The No. of families who received were - - 959 

of individuals who received provisions were • 2772 

do. do. clothing * . 2650 

of barrels of flour and meal distributed were - 194 

of do. of bread • . - - 33 

of do. of beans and peas • • - 5 

of bags of potatoe flfour - . . , 15 

of boxes and tierces of clothing distributed were 61 



No. 
4 
5 
7 
9 

10 
16 
19 
24 

29 
30 
33 

42 
*41 
48 
51 
54 
58 
59 
68 

71 
75 

n 

79 

80 
82 
84 
86 



From Norwich, Conn. 



First Society, Saybrook, 

Conn. 

Lyme, Conn. 

Salem-bridge, Conn. 

Hartford, Conn. 

Berlin, Britain Society, 

Conn. 

Guilford, Conn. 

Troy, N. Y. 

Newark, N. J, 

New London, Conn. 
i( 

Clinterbury, " 
Middletown, " 
N. York, by Mrs. Innes, 
Litchfield, Conn. 

New Preston, 3rd School, 

Conn. 
"Washington, Conn. 
Saybrook, " 

Lenox, Mass. 
Greenville, Green Co. 

N.Y. 
Jefferson, N. T. 
New Brunswick, N. J. 
Sharon, Conn. 
Newport, R. I. 
Waterford, N. Y. 



No. 
89 
103 
106 
108 
109 
119 
135 
127 
128 
J 29 
130 
132 

134 
143 
158 
170 
187 
189 
190 

191 
195 

209 
220 
222 
249 

63 " 
264 



From Woodbury, Conn. 
Providence, R. I. 



" Pawtucket, R. I. 

=' West Farms, N. Y. 

'' Southbury, 

•* Derby, Conn, 
c u 

■' West Stockbridge, Mass, 
* Bethel Parish, Danbury 

Conn. 
' Canton, Conn. 
' Hudson, N. Y. 
' Rochester, " 
' Albany " 
' Homer, " 
' Utica, " 

' Hamilton, Madison Co. 

N.Y. 
' Lebanon, N. Y. 
' New Hartford, Oneida 
Co. N. Y. 
Parma, N. Y. 
Lansingburgh, N. Y. 
Waterbury, Conn. 
Coxsakie and New Balti- 
more, N. Y. 
Pittsford, Monroe Co. N.Y. 



I 



APPENDIX. I 281 

No, No. 

267 From Whites-town, Oneida Co. andJackson, N. Y. 

N. Y. 310 From Alexandria, Jefferson Co, 

269 '•' " ^' N. Y. 

28;3 '• Rit^^a, Monroe Co. N. Y. 35 '• Columbia, Herkimer Co 

300 " VVliite Creek, Cambridge N. Y. 

6. Account of the distributions at Agios hostes, to the Missiholonghiotey^ 
at Basi Anatolico, and at Basiladi. 

The No. of lamilios who received, were - - 150 

No. of individuals who received provisions, were - 168 

No. do. do. clotiiing - - 868 

No. of barrels of Hour and meal distriljuted, were - 60 

No. do. beans and peas - - - 4 

No of boxes of clothing ■ - - 11 

Viz. No, No. 

15 From Goshen So. Lebanon, Ct. 164 From Mount Morris, N. Y. 
•2S " Guilford, Ct. 167 " East Bloomfield, N. Y. 

57 " New Milford, Ct. 236 " Cazenovia, N. Y. 

40 " New London, Ct. 256 " Poughkeepsie, N. Y. 

S5 " Sharon, Ct. 299 " Whitehall, N. Y. 

139 " Ball.ston, N. Y. 

7. Account of the distributions at Kitries, among the suffering inhabit- 
ants of Kalamata, Kalybia, Asprochoma, Kalami, Fruzala, Kamari, Deli- 
memi, Fermcri, Vaisaga, Gadurochori, Drachataga, Siala, Lezi, Husam- 
pasa, Bllrnosi, Carteroli, Androusa, Marromatis. Nisi, Lirnochori, Piper- 
itza, Balaga, Aslanaga, and Paleo Castro. 

The No. of families who received, were - - - 959 

No. of individuals who received provisions, were - 3302 

do. do. clothing, were - 3331 

No. barrels of flour and meal distributed, were - 223 

do. beans, do. - - 5 

do. potatoe flour, do. - • 20 

do. bread, do. • - 82 

No. of boxes of clothing' distributed, were - - SC 

No. 
83 From Sharon, Ct. 
93 and 95 Baltimore, 
96 " Sangersfield, N. Y. 
99 " Kinderhook, N Y. 

102 " Newtown, Ct. 
104, 105, 107, 110, Providence, R. [. 
123, " Goshen, Ct. 
125 and 120, Cow Neck, L. I. N. Y 
140 " Coiirtland Village, N. Y. 
161 East Bloomfield, N. Y. 
165 " Srhohario, N. Y. 
169 and 178 Albany, N, Y. 
184 " Sacki'fs harbor, N. Y 

103 " Danbury, Ct. 
201 " Trov, N. Y, 



^^iz. 


No. 




6 


From Norwich, Ct. 


11 




Griswold, Ct. 


12 




Mill River, Ct. 


26 


" 


Farmington, Ct. 
Newark, N. J. 


■32 




do. 


39 




New Milford, Ct. 


41 


(C 


New Ijoiidon, Ct. 


41 




do. 


49 




Preston, N. Y. 


57 




Sandisfield 


60 


(( 


Litchfield, Ct. 


64 


« 


New Haven, Ct. 


73 




Canaan, Ct. 


70 




Essex, Essex, co. N. Y. 



282 



APPENDIXc 



No. 

207 From Troy, N. Y, 

205 



Nassau and Stephen town, 
N. Y. 
221 " Lansingburgh, N. Y. 
238, 239, 240, 243 and 244, Dor- 282 
Chester, Mass. 284 

246 " Lowville, N. Y. 285 

250 " HoUis. 292 

254 " Ssmpronius, N. Y. 318 

261 " Gorham, Ontario co. N. Y. 

8. Account of the distribution of clotliin, 
gees from different parts of Roumelia. 
The No. of famines who received, were 

No. of individuals who received, w^ere 
No. of boxes of clothing distributed, were 



No. 

270 Prom Genesseo, N.'Y. 

273 

274 



Penfield, N. Y. 

Livingston, Columbia co. 
N.'Y. 

Ogden, Monroe co, N. Y. 

Riga, Monroe co. N. Y. 
' Bergen, N. Y. 
■ Rochester, N. Y. 

Mendon, Mass. 

at Salamis, among the refu- 



474 

1457 

21 



No. 

233 From Mansfield, Ct. 

251 •' Rutland and Ellisburgh, 

N. Y. 
287 " Cherry Valley, N. Y. 

69 " Albany, N. Y. 
296 " Castleton, Rensellaer co. 

N. Y. 
298 " Carthage, 
301 '• Sherbron, 
304 " Norwich, Chenango co. 

N. Y. 
306 " Watertown, Jefferson co. 

N. Y. 



Viz. No. 

50 From Middletown, Ct. 

67 " New Preston, Ct. 
101 " Peekskill, N. Y. 

98 " Stuyvesant, N. Y. 
115 " Providence, R. I. 
172 " Albany, N. Y. 
185 " Jewett's Village, Ct 
206 " Brunswick, N. Y. 
208 " Nassau, Rensellaer co. 

N. Y. 
216 '' Preble, Cortland co. N. Y. 
225 " Southington,.Ct. 
263 " West Bloomfield, N. Y. 

9. Delivered to Dr. Howe, for the use of the colony and the settlement 
called Washingtonia, established by him on the isthmus of Corinth. 

68 barrels flour and meal, 50 barrels beef and pork, 

2 do. bread, 5 do. potatoe flour, 

1 do. beans, 8 boxes of clothing. 

Viz. No. No. 

22 From Hartford, Ct. 175 From Albany, N. Y. 

147 " Richmond, Mass. 202 " Troy, N. Y. 

151 " Durham, Mass. 204 " Schaticoke, N. Y. 

174 " Albany, N. Y. 223 " Waterbury, Ct. 

10. Presented to the President of Greece, for the use of the Orphan 
Asylum, 150 barrels of bread, and 1800 packs of cotton and cloth. 

11. The remainder of the goods were disposed of as follows: Three 
barrels of pork were spoiled and,thrown away. Gave to Geo. Constan- 
tine for this faithful services one barrel of bread and one of beef Gave to 
the captain of the Greek brig twenty barrels of bread and one of beef, ac- 
cording to charter^ and for stores on board, two barrels of bread and one of 
pork. ^ 



APPENDIX. 283 

Gave to the American Hospital, in charge of Dr. Russ, established at 
Hexamillia, on the isthmus of Corinth, boxes of clothing, No. 
97 From New London, Ct. No. 211 From Greece, Monroe co. 

176 " Albany, N.Y. N. Y. 

180 " Sempronius, N. Y. Also a box o5 medicine, and 

Two boxes of soap. 
Box No. 117, from Fall River Village, Mass. packed in No. 200 ; the 
cotton cloth in box No. 122, from Windham, Ct. was given to the Orphan 
Asylum, and the garments packed in V)ox No. 100, the cotton cloth contain- 
ed in box No. 137, from Northampton, Mass. was given to the Orphan 
Asylum, and the box filled from 125 and 126 and distributed at Kitries. 
Box 188, from Scott, N. Y. packed in ditferent boxes, out of which sheets 
and blankets were taken for the hospital. Nos. 192 and 217, from New 
York, packed in boxes from Norwich, and distributed with them. No, 
194, from Danbury, Ct., containing hats, distributed and sold at Poros. 
No. 234, from Butternuts, Otsego co. N. Y., containing 885 yds. shirting, 
and 24 1-2 yards woollen cloth, given to the Orphan Asylum. This box 
was filled from No. 276, and distributed at Navarino. No. 235, from 
Butternuts, partly distributed at the Orphan Asylum, and partly packed in 
No. 200, and distributed at Patras. No. 100, from Kinderhook, N, Y. 
containing bedding given to the Hospital. No. 316, from Chitteningo and 
Canaseraga, N. Y., packed in 151, and distributed with it. No. Ill, from 
Providence, packed in No. 200, boxes No. 43 and 44 from New London, 
Ct. packed in different boxes, out of which sheets and blankets were taken 
for the Hospital. Bales 92 and 94 sold and distributed at Poros. No. 162, 
from East Bloomfield, N. Y., nearly all shoes, sold or distributed at Poros. 
Used in the house 10 barrels flour, 4 barrels bread, 1 barrel peas, 2 1-2 bar^ 
rels pork. Sold, 12 1-2 barrels flour, and 12 barrels pork. 



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